DaveT

This is making me think about adding a kill switch to mine. For a long while, I figured no one would steal these old cars.... But now, they are easy compared to modern ones, so, things are different.

It should. You loose 4wd, obviously. I have swapped a few 3AT transmissions around. 86 through 93 are swappable from first hand experience except with the years around 86 (not sure of the exact year) they changed the final drive ratio, which screws up the 4wd unless you also swap the rear diff. You might have to swap the rear mount, and there might be rear drive shaft differences. The internal speed selection parts are the same for the 2WD and the 4wd, but of course the 4wd has the extra extensign and parts for the 4wd.

The 1000 is for replacing it with a similar condition and aged operable car. The scrap value is a lot lower, as it is no longer in the same condition due to the accident. But if they total it, the title is marked as such, and it isn't registerable , so driving it isn't an option legally. Figure on hauling it on a trailer or flatbed. That's how it works here, ymmv.

It's been a while since I did this, but it should be the scrap value, so it won't be much to buy the totaled car.

Yes, I want to check toe, front and rear. By side to side, I mean driver to passenger - to want to know the string on each side are parallel to each other. I'll add scales on the horizontal aluminum bars. I've used simpler setups to adjust the front toe before, just trying to make something a little more accurate / repeatable. Don't want to measure off the sides of the tires.

Figuring out a DIY alignment rig. Next to figure out is how to get accurate measurements side to side. Car body and exhaust is in the way of simply using a tape measure. The bars are light weight aluminum attached to Neodymium magnets salvaged from old hard drives. I shimmed them so the height of the magnet face to the outer edge of the bar is within .001" of parallel.

Yes, there is a coolant passage in the manifold, directly under the throttle body. There is a special oem o ring that seals it.

The ECU 34 code for the EGR is for the solenoid, not the EGR itself. But this is not the cause of the power loss.

They won't extend far enough once assembled to unload the spring enough for the perch to float off the studs. Not fitting over the bump at the top edge, that's odd. Maybe grind cut away a little to make the hole big enough? How close is the interference?

It looks like it should go together this way - Orient the strut vertically, like it would be in the car. Screw the 2 stud bolts into the nuts on the wing from the top. Set the round perch down onto the studs. Put the cotter pins in the holes on the stud / bolts.

I have rebuilt many alternators, never bought a new or reman one. aspwholesale.com has just about every part for them.

There is a temperature controlled vacuum valve somewhere - It uses that servo to move a flap to draw air from a duct that goes down to the exhaust pipe to get warmed air to the intake when it is cold outside. The valve is also connected to manifold vacuum. The warm air duct from the exhaust should come up to the underside of the air intake duct, about where that servo is.

I found a surprise source.... BJ's wholesale club. Lists a handful of brands even.

T in a fuel pressure gauge.

Normally, as batteries age, they get higher internal resistance. Not going to cause more current from the alternator. Higher current might accelerate brush eear, but I have no hard data on that. Brush pressure is from a spring, that does not change with current. A very thoroughly discharged but good battery can draw a lot of current. Might be able to fry the regulator or rectifier in a marginally designed alternator.

Does sound like fuel starvation, or accelerator pump not working.

Only if the battery was so bad as to draw too much current. But it wouldn't likely hold charge for long if it were that bad. How old is the old battery? 5 years under ideal conditions is usually end of life by the specifications for flooded cell lead acid batteries. If the battery is over sized, it can continue to start the car for a year or 2 longer, but it won't have the CCA or reserve it did when new. Btw, ideal conditions are rarely found under the hood of a car. How many miles are.on the alternator? Every one of my OEM EA82 alternators wore out a brush at about 150k miles which reduces output until it won't charge the battery. And this failure mode doesn't light the alternator light on the dash until it is very far along, and then only very dimly. Have to be somewhere dark and look for it faintly glowing at idle.

I don't see how that gets any access to the heater core. The A/C Evaporator, yeah.

The voltage at the to should not be higher than at the ECU. That's normal. Loosing almost a volt between the 2, that's a lot, for a small signal type of thing, which this is. When checking, use the same gnd point. Some contact or connector or broken wire in the circuit from the ECU to the TPS is high resistance.

Not in a wagon from at least 86 through 93 powered by an EA82 engine. Outside of these years, I don't have first hand experience. But inside of them, and I would expect anything with an EA82 engine, would be the same. The dash must be removed to get the box with the heater system and core out. Once that assembly is out, the heater core can be removed from it.

The couple times I had strong smell of fuel, it was a leak at the fuel pump.

Check that the throttle shaft turns freely. Heck that the fast idle cam and choke linkages are all moving correctly. The only wires should be a solenoid to shut off the fuel to prevent diesel ing when shut off, and the choke heater, which is supposed to gradually open the choke.

If it is similar to my 86 ea82 wagon, it should have a controller. The acompressor should run for a few seconds when any mode is selected from off. But only cycle whIle in ac or defrost. I found mine was running continuously in all modes, due to a hack mod someone had done before I bought it, that caused the compressor to run constantly in all modes. The FSM helps a lot in figuring out this stuff.

If the readings are resistance, make them disconnected from the ECU. I've used test leads and long wires to get a meter to where it can be viewed while operating a remote input. Other option, move the throttle linkage by hand. I don't think these old ECU s. Are very complicated. Hook it up, power on , and run.

I am in CT. Never touched an XT6 though. I do know electronics.