DaveT

My 86 4WD wagon had factory cruise. It worked, unless the were hills. Carbed EA82 and taller gears than the later versions made it really gutless. It would start to open the throttle, and if the hill was big enough and long enough, the engine vacuum would drop, and it couldn't keep the gas pedal down.

Letting the AC run for defrost also helps keeps the system, lubed when it would normally sit idle for months, which isn't necessarily good for anything. With -20 air going in, it won't run much / work hard anyways. For the fan resistor, 2 options I've used - Get a spare used resistor assembly from a scrapyard. Take the smallest good resistor [even if it's the second to smallest], and replace the broken one. The smallest one is often the one that fails. This fix will make low speed a little faster than stock, but still quiet. Other option, buy some NiChrome wire off ebay, similar diameter to the original one, make the same number of turns and size as the original. The power loss in the resistors is high for their size, and they depend on the airflow to keep them from burning up.

EGR doesn't cool the heads. It reduces the combustion temperature. It's figured into the map in the ECU. Should reduce pre ignition knocking, and changes the emissions - IIRC, it reduces NOX. I've been running and maintaining EA82s since 1988. Never had any noticeable effect on performance or drive ability due to EGR, or EGR solenoid failure. The only problem I've ever had with EGR is that the OEM solenoids fail open. I replace them with a Toyota one, still running the same Toyota ones. The main limiter on the power output of EA82s is the air path in the intake and exhaust ports in the heads, and the valve size. Nothing else makes much difference, unless you are prepared to spend BIG $ for small improvements. It's less expensive to do the EJ swap if you want power, and keep the reliability.

An impact wrench will get the nut off, just holding the rotor by hand. I've also used a vise to hold it - with wood or an old timing belt between the jaws and the rotor.

I have re sealed a handful of these engines. Had 1 head bolt strip during reassembly that was overheated badly. I follow the directions in the fsm - oil the threads, 3 tourque steps, order. No coolant shouldbe leaking out of any of the tapped extra holes in the heads. Many of those holes do intersect head bolt holes. Head gasket probably leaking into one of those.

I have found that getting the entire engine up to 150 to 190 degrees F makes a huge difference in successfully removing stuck bolts. Either by running it, or by using a space heater and a heat gun, to get enough power. Then carefully working the stuck ones loose / tight. Gradually, the sticking point moves further unscrewed. It helps to learn the feel of the bolt turning vs twisting. When they start to twist, that's when they snap. The radiator stop leak stuff can temporarily fix a 13psi leak from the radiator to the air. It won't survive the temperature and pressure involved with the combustion chamber.

Never ending stream of bubbles is coming from headgasket, or cracked head. Headgasket leaks can start very very slow. Will eventually get worse. There is no other source of "air" that can pump it's way into the cooling system. I have had small amounts of air sucked back into the cooling system during cool down when there was a slightly loos hose clamp, or seeping radiator leak. But these will not cause a never ending bubble supply.

It depends. If you like these models. How rusty it is. Many parts are NLA, so it's going to take searching, getting used / making / modifying. I have 2 of these EA82 wagons. I've been running and maintaining them since 1988. I intend to run them until I run out of spare parts, and can't buy or make replacements. They have their quirks. 2 timing belts. Change them and all 3 idlers every 50K miles. Keep the cooling system in top condition. Under powered compared to newer cars. Part of the reasons I have 2 is that when one breaks, I am not stuck without a car while waiting to find hard to get parts.

I use por15. Used it on the bead area on steel rims. Only have to add air a couple times a year now. Use it on steel parts that can be entirely encapsulated by it. It is incredibly tough. I used some on my loader backhoe. As a base to tie to the rust. Then their tie coat primer to the final top coat color. Follow ALL of the instructions - get the printable ones from the website. I have bumped / nudged big logs (like half a tree ) with a painted area on the side of the loader bucket, and the color layer and prime rubbed off, but the underlying por15 is undamaged. The force involved would have caved in a body panel on a car. I have used it on rust spots on my loyales. So far so good. But also key in this, is using Waxoyl on the inside of the areas. Have to stop the moisture from getting in from both sides.

A lead acid battery at 0 degrees F is about 1/4 of the capability of what it can do at 70 degrees F. So if you are in a cold climate, it helps. Battery capacity deteriorates every year, so add that to cold, and the margin gets slimmer still. Typically not as big a problem on cars, unless you are below zero often, and or a lot below. I have a big loader backhoe with a Diesel engine. The block heater, battery warmer and synthetic oil all help make it possible to get it started in winter.

There will be loud ticking for a while, as the air is worked out of the lifters. Whenever I've reassembled one of these engines, it takes a while. And it comes and goes, but eventually goes away.

At least 90 through 93 should be useful for a FSM. Going by numerous threads on this forum, the oil pump is NLA - no OEM, no aftermarket. Only chance is NOS or finding a used engine that hasn't been abused. I've been running and maintaining EA82 wagons since 1988, never needed a new oil pump, just reseal them. With reasonable maintenance, and not abused the pump should be ok.

There are o-rings [including the famous Micky mouse o-ring] and a a shaft seal. It's been a while - I don't recall any gaskets involved with the oil pump. You must be careful when removing the pump. No big force or you risk breaking something. I have heard of EA82 FSMs online, but I don't have a link. Keep an eye out for one on ebay, it's far better than any of the Haynes type manuals. While there are some differences, for the main EA82 mechanical stuff, 86-93 are pretty similar. Some of the fuel delivery method / wiring and ECU stuff changes over that span. What year is the car you are working on?

It's more likely some other cause. Never once since 1992 have I needed to adjust the idle screw on an EA82 SPFI engine. It's always been something else.

Looks like an EA82 engine? SPFI? The green ones are part of the ECU dignostic modes. There should be a similar pair of white ones for that also. The green and white diagnostic connectors should not be connected for normal operation. The yellow and black were for some dealer plug in diagnostic tool. The a/c pulse monitor box on the versions I've had to deal with was under the dashboard on the firewall. The year, model, etc. Make a difference on some of these parts.

Re a d tge code on the blinking led on the ECU.

The foam I used was 1-1/4" wide 3/16" thick. It is sold as weatherstripping in hardware stores. It is black, closed cell foam. You want whatever kind they have that is the longest life / quality. [I have some leftover, but not the packaging with the part number] After removing the old crud, I laid strips onto the doors side by side to re create the sheet they had. I have not had any signs of malfunction in the car I did this on, several years ago.

When one of mine went bad at about 30yrs, I got a new Subaru one. At $3.00 per year, an OEM one is not a bad deal. The only time I go cheap on those kind of parts is if It were a beater I planned on running until it broke from rust, and had no use for the engine as a spare.

Even forgetting the o ring wouldn't make zero oil. Too much loss, yes. Not air. Not zero.

Yes, there are blocks bolted to the front bumper. The X made with the red straps is needed when carrying long heavy loads. And also for sheet goods, that will catch a lot of wind. They hook to the towing hooks and the tops of the vertical supports. With the X straps in place, you can grab the rack anywhere and shake the entire car with it. Without them, the rack could twist off. They also prevent wind that inevitably gets under the load from lifting the entire thing off the car. I don't trust the factory rack mounts to hold a lot, they are only small screws into sheet metal. The front section is pinned to the main part, so it can be easily removed when not in use. It is all aluminum, with stainless hardware, because I didn't want rust stains all over the car. Do use anti seize compound on them, or they will corrode and NOT be disasembleable in a few years. The 4 vertical load supports that go into the rain gutters have a piece of vinyl tubing cut to make a pad to prevent the metal cutting through the paint. The aluminum is 1" x 2" x 1/8" wall tubing. I used 1/8" sheet to make the vertical supports for the back section to rain gutters, 6" wide into the gutters. L brackets 1/8" thick tie the cross members to the OEM rack rails, using their nuts. I doubled them by using a set from a scrapped car, so there are 8 tie points to those OEM rails.

There was a modification kit available from Subaru to fix the oil burn on long hard right turns problem. I have it on both of me EA82 powered wagons. Problem gone.

I can add detail pictures if you let me know what parts or angles would help.

My Web page has a picture or 2 of the rack. I've hauled a few hundred pounds of sheet rock or vinyl siding or lumber on it. It is suppored by plate that slip into the rain gutters on the sides, and the 2 verticals down to the front bumper. The tie in to the existing roof rack is only for horizontal loads, not the weight of the loads. Iirc, my Web page is linked in my profile on this site.

Yes, FSM are the best. I consider them part of buying a car.

The description with the one cam pulley up one down, is the checking position, to verify you got the belt on correctly, not how to install or tension them. The 3 ||| marks is where you set the crank to install a belt, with the cam you are doing with it's mark up. Then turn the crank one full revolution, and repeat for the second timing belt. It is not normally necessary to touch the distributor when replacing the timing belts. Although, removing it for head gaskets makes sense. I usually mark where the rotor is pointing before I remove it, or check my 2nd EA82 car when re inserting it.