DaveT

EGR. There is a solenoid mounted on the intake. It is controlled by the ECU. It disables the EGR until the engine is up to normal operating temperature, as determined by the ECU reading the CTS. The solenoid causes the EGR valve to stay closed when disabled, or open depending on the vacuum system. The EGR valve hangs off the back of the intake on the passenger side. Vacuum applied to it's hose barb pulls it open. IF the solenoid coil is open, the ECU will detect it, and blink a code on the LED on the ECU. I have never had an open solenoid coil cause any drive ability problem. OEM solenoids are notorious for failing open. I replace them with Toyota solenoids. If you follow the hose from the EGR valve to the solenoid, the other hose on the solenoid could be pulled off and blocked to stop air from sucking into the manifold. The car might be a little more inclined to experience knock, make more emissions, but otherwise run ok. That test would isolate if you had a leak in those few pieces.

Might be the pulse thing. I'd try to troubleshoot it. Many ac systems have over pressure switches on the high side, so check that.

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Holey zombie thread... It would be a lot better to start a new thread, than post on the 3rd page of a 2 year old one... But anyway, The 84 may or may not. I know first hand that 86-93 are interchangeable.

keep an eye out on ebay for a factory service manual. It will likely take a while, but they are worth it if you find one.

Many parts for the Loyale / GL / EA82 engine powered cars are no longer available, from Subaru or aftermarket. Older ones are likely going the same way. What is left is new old stock, and people who have stored / scavenged / saved them knowing this was going to happen.

When I got my 86 back in 88, it came with A/C compressor noise. Someone had hack wired it so the compressor was always engaged whenever the heater controls were in any position except off. I replaced it, and never had the problem again, on any of the several similar cars I have had since. Point of mentioning this, is it seems rare that they fail. There are 2 versions. One where the compressor is next to the power steering pump, and the other, where it is near the battery. The compressors and mounting are different, so you have to get the right one.

If it is still working otherwise, Start looking for a compressor. Need to know the year & model of your car.

There should be a roll pin through the axel, holding it onto the stub. The axle stub has tapered roller bearings, held in by a special nut on the backside of the bearing housing. There are a couple of threads with details of the wrench, etc.

I've had the best luck with a flat faced punch or bar stock, at least 1/4" in diameter. Hold it perpendicular to the flat face, give it a couple of good raps with a mid size hammer, and it should get loose. It is a cone washer. Don't hammer on the end of the axle. When I put them back together, they get anti seize.

That could be dangerous. .... the entire gastank isn't going to withstand much pressure. Normal way to try to clear a plugged fuel line is back feeding the small outlet tube, with the tank filler open. The small fuel line can withstand many times the pressure the tank can.

When it is cold, like winter cold, those rpms are not unusual for at least the beginning. Yes, if the old one was open, you needed a new sensor anyway, so at least that wasn't a waste of $. Ditto, check the wiring / contacts / continuity. I would check the resistance of the cts from the ecu connector.

Ok, as far as seals and bearings, that's baby miles. Seals are getting old, but they won't be as bad as if they were in a desert like climate. The driveline bearings olin mine usually have made over 200k miles. The timing belt idlers and belts, those you change every 50k miles to reduce the chances for rude surprises. All 7 cooling system hoses should be replaced if they are over 10 years. Check the condition of the radiator fins. All of the fine fins should be there and attached to the tubes.

How many miles are on it? What kind of weather has it withstood?

Another way to adjust images. Get paint shop pro, demo version. Crop, re size, adjust color / contrast, pretty much anything, more stuff than you ever need.

All of my several EA82s show/ed "0" oil pressure on the stock gauges at idle. It's really something like 5psi, but the stock gauge isn't accurate enough ro register. Since there is only very light load at idle, it doesn't ruin anything.

Trying to run with the IAC valve disconnected, who knows. I never did that. I had one die, electrically open, and the car would shut off if I let it idle. THE CTS can cause all kinds of crazy drive ability problems, idle all over the place, shut down / stall, etc. It can be bad in a way that causes this, and NOT throw a code. Reason is that it is telling the ECU how cold / hot the engine is, and this information is used to adjust how much fuel is sent in. If the mixture is way off from what it needs to be as determined by the temp, the engine won't run well, if at all. If you have an ohmmeter, you can check it. Run the car until it's at normal temperature. Shut down. Disconnect the CTS - the 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing. Measure the resistance. Note it. Really helpful if you have a thermometer also, so you know the temperature of the housing. Wait a while, until it cools a noticeable amount, repeat the readings. Do this a few times while it cools to ambient. #1 thing to watch for is the reading is STEADY vs jumping around. Also, it should drift in the same direction each reading. There are temperature & resistance range notes in the FSM. I bought an OEM CTS a few years ago, from a dealer. It was around $90.00. But the previous one lasted nearly 30 years. Not to bad, $3.00 per year.

On my 3AT transmissions, the switch is an alternate action button. Mechanically clicks on and stays down, clicks off stays up. Just 2 wires, open circuit or close circuit to get 4WD. I've had a couple break, found I could use a #2-56 screw to hold the 2 pieces back together. If they break again, I'll have to find a part, and make an adapter, and or 3d print something.

My 93 loyale came with that stripped down version instrument cluster. Oil light, not gauge. No volts? I have fsm from 86 and 90, compared everything. Swapped a few bits around, changed out the switch for the sender, and I now have a full GL instrument cluster in my 93. The oil switch vs sensor used the same wire, same location. The volt meter just taps existing wiring.

When these were new, 3 speed auto was the common transmission. 4 speed autos were pretty unusual. I don't know turbo XTs well enough to be sure, but my 88 -93 4WD wagons turn 4000 RPM at 65 mph on the highway. All day, not a problem. Ea82 non turbo, 3 speed automatic. The EA82 engines were made to spin fast, not lug.

Yes. But it has been many years since I had one that needs adjusting.

Iirc, that is when hot. Assuming solid lifters. The hydraulic ones, they state do not adjust.

The gauge or instrument cluster is a small thing compared to replacing the entire dashboard, which is what the OP was about. It's a little fiddly, but not that big of a deal. If the temperature of the engine goes over normal while low on coolant, it is a pretty high risk of causing head gasket failure. It is also too late if you use this to check the coolant level. But it can save you having to do crank bearings and rings and worse.

nothing in this sub forum area would have an OBD2 code like P1911.... Nothing I know of anyway.

Remove the y pipe and middle exhaust pipe se tion. The differential end of the prop shaft, there are 3 bolts in a flange. Remove those. Put something to catch it. 2 bolts remove the center bearing. Once the center is free, you can move it a little to get the rear flange apart, then the shaft will move rearward, and slide out of the transmission. On ea82 cars, my drive on "lift" made out of 4x8x16 concrete blocks and 2x12 planks gets the car 8 inches above the ground while on its wheels. 6 to 8 blocks make a pad for each wheel, and the planks span between them, and make ramps ro get uo on it. Use smaller block ro support the planks even with the block piles. Now you need to support the front of the engine, as it will want to tip down and forward, once the transmission is removed. It will also bind if you don't. A transmission jack, or a couple of the scissor jacks and a dolly, or even a piece of 1x12 and 4 or so pieces of 1" emt for rollers to support, move rearward out of the engine, then lower the transmission. It's a bit wobbly, to just use the jacks. so using something to make good supports / stabilizers between the jacks and the transmission is a good idea. Be sure to not be under it in case something slips. The transmisions are around a couple hundred pounds. I can lift 1 end when out in the open, but not much of anything when they are under the car.

Those temps are higher than I normally see. Things that have fixed / or made lifter tick rare for me, in CT, USA- Reseal the oil pump, including the shaft seal. Reseal the engine, from the head gaskets up. Running Amsoil original 100% synthetic 10W40. Sometimes, not immediately, sometimes after the gunk from the previous owner gets cleaned out by the oil. NOTE - I am running EA82s, which are different, but known for lifter tick, so YMMV