DaveT

The function would not be correct. The solenoid disables the egr while the ECU reads that the engine is not up to normal operating temperature. The Subaru solenoids die. I have Toyota ones in mine, that are still working, since 1988. There are a few threads on the forum with the link to my Web page about the mod. Later I can add it here.

Trace out where the wire comes from. At least witch branch it is in. There are not any separate wires.

Good to know the EJs are not going anywhere. Why EA? in no particular order, and not complete... Now that I have passed the 25 year mark, I will not deal with another car newer than 25 years old, just to avoid emissions hassles. For whatever reason, I just always have those crop up when I am already crazy busy. SO done with that. I never had an older / original Legacy, but we did have an 01 Forester for my wife. I could out maneuver it with my EA wagons, and all the newer versions are even bigger. Ok, didn't have to do the timing belts as often, but the DIY cost was nearly 5 times higher. Both of us can tell where the EA is on the road & parking a lot better than with the newer rounded cars. I can get bigger things into the back of my EA wagon than any of the newer models I've checked. Not by a lot, but a few items, it mattered. Do not want AWD forcing me to always run 4 identically worn tires. Bigger tires are more $ also, so not interested. I've also added lighting to my wife's Foresters, and now Impreza. [We replaced her 09Forester with an 09 Impreza recently, as she could not get used to the bigger rounder shape. Horrible time parking, etc.] What a PITA! all the wiring is hidden, even under the hood. Even though I am an electronics engineer [or maybe because I am one...] I don't want MORE computers to maintain and deal with in my vehicles. One for the ECU is ok, but that's enough. I don't drive tons of miles a year. I know the EA and have acquired or made all the tools I need to do nearly everything with them. Don't need to start over. It's now also just one of my hobby things - see how long I can keep running them. Because I can.

Hmmmm. Maybe some other type of oil pump. PS too low of volume - the parts that move the oil are a LOT smaller. Peterson at $700 a pump, wow. I've thought about the EJ swap. If I had that power, I'd end up using it, and breaking other NLA parts. Plus it is a ton of work, not that that would stop me... How much longer will even EJ parts be around? I wouldn't want to do the upgrade for that reason, only to have them go NLA in a few years.

Thereis a lot to take apart. The FSM has pretty detailed information on this. I have removed several. Iirc, you need 10mm and 12mm sockets. And a Philips screwdriver. Assortment of pliers and flat drivers wouldn't hurt to have. You can un bolt the glass from the regulator mech. You might have to move the position up and down to get at all of the bolts.

I was just starting to think about that sort of thing. ... What is that Peterson pump?

Drill a hole in the center of a piece of 2x6. Piece maybe 12 inches long. After removing the doj, and the boot, slide block onto the shaft to the cvj. Clamp the axle in a vise, cvj end down. Put something a little padded to catch the cvj under it. One moderate hit with a medium sized hammer to the block should pop it right off. Hit close to the axle and straight as possible. Now the cage will turn enough to get the balls out.

I used some from a hardware store. Just went after whatever type looked the most long life / weather extreme. Try to get close on the width and thickness.

The picture shows an engine with the air cleaner for a naturally aspirated carburetor engine. Turbo were fuel injection. All of the gl 10s I saw were turbo. But I have not seen many.

Pretty sure they just touch. The clamps had foam on them iirc.

If you found evidence of the core leaking, that would do it. Yes, pulling the dash is "fun". I had to do one to clean out mice nest destruction.

The damage I see is between the crank case oil return and outside. I have used Fel pro perma tourque headgaskets a fee tines with no problems. Only use oem intake gaskets, and the reinforced o rings for the oil supply to the cam towers.

It would have to be crated, and fork lift compatible. Check into Fastenall. They will ship stuff like this store to store.

That description does make it sound like a very small leak in the core. The heat "on/off" - if you mean the temperature slider, it's just routing more or less air through or around the heater core, so if the fog was coming from the heater core, that is exactly what would happen.

That brake rotor does not look good. The shiny / wear area should go a lot further in to the center.

How rusty is the body / fenders?

For the few of us that are into these old ones, some might be usable. Often, for a "regular" car user, who has to pay someone to repair, it a fairly small problem "kills" a car. I've thought about power upgrades from time to time over the years. But that just moves a failure point to some other hard to get part.

Find a used OEM axle - which won't be easy. clean and re grease & re boot. 90% or more of the aftermarket ones were junk anyway, even when they were available.

IS the engine thermostat 190 degrees F? That is stock temp. and the heat air temp is pretty good. I have a 180 in one of mine, the heat is noticeably not as powerful. Also, verify if the door that selects fresh VS recirculated air is working. Normally, for any heat or defrost mode it should be bringing in fresh air. Another thing I have modified, I can switch it independently - if you run with the door on recirculate, the windows can fog. I only use the recirculate for the first few minutes from a cold start outside in winter. A/C Max is the setting that puts it in recirculate normally. Another thought - if the engine is running at stock temp [190] and everything else above seems normal, have mice ever been in the heater system? They could have removed the sealing foam from the blend door and you won't get full power heat due to leaking.

Take an old bearing of the same size. Grind a few thousandths off the OD. Now you have a nice tool for pressing them in with a vise. Unless you are 100% sure the jaws are parallel and square, do a little at a time, and turn by 1/3 [120 degrees]. Or tap with a medium hammer and aluminum or other soft metal drift, again, turn 120 degrees each time it moves a little. You should be able to get the feel for how hard to tap to get a little movement, and do one tap per 120 degrees. The sheet metal stamped pulleys, you have to support well to avoid deforming them. When installing, never apply force in a way that transfers through the balls. Or from inner to outer race in other words. Always move the OD by the outer race or the ID by the inner race. When removing a known dead one, this doesn't matter. I started doing this back 1988 or so, when the only source was Subaru, and they wanted $90.00 each. High quality contact seal bearings were around $7 - $10 each.

Looks good, sounds normal for psi. Carbs don't use high pressure. I remeber my older Subarus had a sight glass, but I no longer remember which side it was on. Obviously, the bowel side where the float is. Should be close to the fuel line goes in.

Yes, the air doors are activated by engine vacuum. See if the air is directed properly in the various settings.

Put the gauge between any online filter and the carb. This is to verify fuel pressure. If it turns out to drop too low when the problem occurs, now you have a clue for troubleshooting. Possible causes... fuel pump, filter/s tank pickup, crud in the tank.

My first guess would be starving for fuel. T in a pressure gauge so you can see what is going on.

And yes, the timing belt adjusters were on their way out also. All rebuilt with new bearings.