DaveT

As far as I know, NLA. More parts are going that way. I've been planning for this for quite a while now, for me EA82s. If there are no symptoms, leave it be. At most, it might need a new shaft seal and o rings. Unless, as mentioned previously, it was abused. Start keeping an eye out for parts cars, old stock, some one deciding to move to a different car who has a lot of spare parts. Get a milling machine, and start making one.

Sounds like it was flooded. OR you have an intermittent problem. I once had one die on me. Went and called home, to have my wife push me home with her car. She got there, I tried the starter one last time, and boom, it ran. If the battery was cranking it, it was good enough to start it.

If it has not run since the belts, #1 thing to check. Also, if these flood, they act dead. Hold the gas to the floor. Lots of cranking. Eventually, you get a sputter. then a few more. Then finally, it catches, running crappy at first then smooths out. Other thing that can cause cold no start - CTS. Coolant Temperature Sensor. The 2 wire one on the lower thermostat housing. Sparks should be able to get insanely long, like over 1/2 inch. An easy test - spray a 1 second shot of carb cleaner into the intake boot. If it fires a little, then it's lack of fuel or flooded.

Only use 4WD when wet, or on snow ice off road. Most of the time, when raining, I'll switch it on while stopped, get going, then switch off. Unless there are big puddles or water sheeting on the road.

Not entirely. 4wd puts a different load / shifts the loading on the driveline parts.

I am interpreting that the places that tested it think it's working. Normal in the car should be around 13.8 V or into the 14s on the battery terminals with the engine running at a bit over Idle. Over 15 is bad also. At idle, the output can drop too low to charge. If it tests good I would be looking at the wiring to the 2 wires on the small connector on the alternator - everything involved with them.

The black ones (old ones) are likely just regular old Buna n. They get hard and take a set after this many years and miles at temperature. The new ones are more likely viton, which survives a lot better. They don't get hard. By this many miles, and around 10 or so years, the same thing has happened to the oring between the head and the cam carrier. Also, the same oil channel passes through the headgaskets, and those both are likely leaking by now, if the engine has never been resealed. But that is a bigger project. I would wait on that.

The pumps last a very long time. Have not seen a bad one. The seals do not last forever. By 150K or more, and 20 years or more, they are due. The original o rings / Micky mouse ring get hard and leak. Shaft seals wear and get hard. It's been a while since I had one apart - I think there is an o ring between 2 pieces that make up the pump. I would rather re seal a still good OEM pump than use an aftermarket. It's one of those things - you already have it this far apart - if it hasn't been done, it's a lot less time to do now, rather than when the leaks get annoying or the lifter tick starts.

wow, lots of crud in there. Might be good to run it both ways.

Sounds good, and looks like you got some junk out of there. Definitely do the engine and heater core.

yes, run the water through backwards. Hose to the lower fitting. Hot wouldn't hurt, tends to loosen up stuff. Just don't allow pressure to go above 12 or so PSI, so loose / leaky connection. IF the radiator is not plugged, the flow capacity is a lot higher than the garden hose so no risk.

For some reason, the post below.never went up? Anyway, the oil pump shaft seal is one of the main causes of lifter tick. If it's oem original pump, it's due for replacement by now. The seal in the oil pump The nut unscrews, and the pully slips. off. You have to hold the pump impeller to keep it from rotating. An impact wrench might get it loose , but be careful with that, and it will be hard to get one on there if it's on the car. The oil pump shaft seal might be worth replacing (along with the orings that seal it to the block) unless you know the pump is fairly new.

If you are not at high altitude, get a short piece of awg14 bare copper wire. Make a c around the little check valve in the radiator cap to hold it open. This will allow you to run with a small leak, as long as you check and add water every drive. Never allow air to collect in the upper radiator hose. Flushing the radiator and heater core is good. Just don't allow more than 12 lbs of pressure to build. Normal flow direction for the radiator is in at the top hose, across to the driver's side, out the bottom back to the engine. To flush the engine, remove the thermostat. If you replace it, oem or the highest quality Stant only. Unless I knew the oil pump was recently new or resealed, I would remove it, reseal it. Which involves removing the pulley to get at the shaft seal. Then put a better pulley on it.

Might as well reseal the pump while in there, no? Once it is out of the block, no big deal to swap the pulley.

Flush the stop leak crud out thoroughly. Don't use it again.

Good idea, check the axel nuts.

The description reads like front axle. Aftermarket axles are instantly suspect. I never ran one with missing engine mounting bolts, but the noise matching wheel speed makes no sense if it coming from them.

Get rid of the stamped one. The cooling system is the most important thing to keep in top condition. The stamped impeller cannot work as effectively as the cast one. It is cheaper to make, that is all.

From what I have owned, EA82 powered cars from at least 87 through 93 are nearly the same. Drive shaft may or may not be different. It should bolt to the engine no problem. What year / model is the old one?

That is bad, the seal should not move. I have always had good luck with the NAPA higher quality water pumps. I hold the flywheel with a 12MM box end wrench on one of the flex plate bolts while tightening the crank pulley bolt. The most important thing is to keep it on place well, so it doesn't slip off and damage the bolt head. They are lower profile than most 12MM bolts.

Original belts are marked Subaru. I have never had a belt go more than 70k miles. Usually, expect a lot less. I have been running ea82 engines since 1988. The idler bearings are not good for much more. If the hose clamps are the oem wire ones, that hose is probably original, and that is way too long to go before replacing the 7 hoses.

Oem have the green paint. Way better off searching for used oem, clean ,regrease, reboot.

That is not correct. The long nut should have a washer, that is all.

Pulling the engine radiator gives you some extra room to work. No advantage pulling the AC radiator aka condenser. Flip the compressor up and back to get it out of the way. Be sure to replace all 7 cooling system hoses. Carefully inspect the radiator for condition. All of the fine fins still connected to the tubes. There is no oil pump gasket. There are o rings. And the shaft seal, if the orings are shot, you need that also.

I am not sure what you are saying here - You took the alternator out, and had places test it?