DaveT

I'm not 100% sure on an 85. Do you have a FSM schematic? If not there may be one online? Some fuses are after the ignition switch. There are a few connectors in the circuits also. If you had power at the switch, but couldn't find anything after the switch, measuring right at the switch, that does not sound good for the switch... Of course, you tried it in the various positions.

Fuses can be open with a microscopic crack, you need to check for voltages. Check for power getting to the various engine systems. ECU, coil, etc.

I am not sure about 84, but 86 and up, it's not unusual for the alternator light to not light, and some of the others to glow when the alternator output is low. Use a voltmeter, measure the volts directly on the battery, and also directly at the alternator output terminal to it's case while running.

Does anyone know what happened to subaru-parts-dealer.com? I've attempted to contact them a few times, and nothing. Web page seems up. Does anyone know of another similar parts dealer?

Not necessarily the switch. I was pointing out that some of the fuses won't have 12V on them unless the ignition is on. 100K miles is no big deal. 36 years is getting up there. Temperature, humidity and the number of times a switch is used are what wears them. I am not suggesting blindly replacing anything. Test, test, test. If it is an intermittent problem, it could be any number of things. Any switch, connection, or connector [there are at least a few in the circuit between the battery and the switched fuse feed. Even a wire can fail. I have had a couple where the wire breaks inside the insulation, no obvious visible sign on the outside - until you look VERY close.

no, I meant the ignition switch turns power on / off to some fuses. Any intermittent, like in the links, etc. could cause those odd failures. Watch the coolant level VERY closely. That is the way to detect failing head gaskets. White smoke, mixed oil is only signs of VERY blown head gaskets.

Some fuses are switched. Make sure you check with the ignition in on and in run position as well as off.

One of mine made a ticking sound under similar circumstances. I always thought it might be speedometer cable related. Never went after it.

if it's a 1987 automatic, it should have a dipstick for the transmission fluid, over by the brake booster. The gear lube stick for the front diff is on the opposite side closer to center. behind the bell housing. Same for 4WD or FWD. Unless it's AWD, there is no center diff. I've had a couple that were not the cleanest in the diff section, so I ran part gear lube part ATF for a drive or 2, then drain and refill. Run for a week, then drain and refill with the good gear lube.

Apparently, there are 2 kinds. The only Subarus I have / had that used a screw to hold the rotor were my 76 and 78. All of the several EA82 powered models I've owned had the flatted shaft type. Is it a different country or areas thing that makes one type more common?

Update, found it. They apparently left the mechanical cable disconnected. I still need a usable FSM

A couple days ago, I had my wife take her Impreza to a local dealer to get a few recalls done, including the passenger air bag. They had a new guy start the work, and he screwed it up, and it took a lot longer than it was supposed to. Now she is even more unhappy with that dealer, as we find the heater vent controls no longer work. No heat or AC anywhere. The vent selector knob turns, but seems to have no effect. The blower runs, you can hear air, but nothing coming out anywhere. I just downloaded a PDF of the FSM, but it has no index, I can't find anything, and it's 3000+ pages.. With no index or table of contents?!?! WTF Any idea what could disable the vent selector?

Also might help to clean out the old dried out grease and put in new in the tracks, etc.

I always figure that any used car over 5 or so years old, plan on putting another $1000.00 into. That's parts, doing your own work, not taking to a shop. That's from a few decades of life experience. In these old ones, it will vary widely based on how well the previous owner maintained it. BUT the $ is not the main challenge. The parts availability is. I like these models, I run 2 of them. I occasionally have people asking about them, "oh, I remember mine" etc. So surprised to see one here in CT. I have 2 partly because if one develops a problem, I have the other to get around in while I wait for / make / recondition parts. I don't have to get emissions tested any more. I don't want air bags. I have made or bought all of the special tools. I know the quirks to watch and work around. I have engine and drive line parts from several that I retired due to the body rusting away. I have factory service manuals that I bought from a dealer, way back when I got the first couple. You will want a set but you have to search for online scans, or watch ebay, etc. As much as I like them for me, I want to be sure that someone new knows the challenges involved in maintaining one. It is going to be difficult finding a mechanic that really knows these old ones also, so plan on being your own mechanic, or spending LOTS of cash. Any hose, seal, gasket older than 10 years probably should be replaced. Radiator condition. #1 way to blow head gaskets is to neglect the cooling system. Radiator must be in very good to new condition. All SEVEN cooling system hoses should be no older than 10 years. Any EA82 I've ever owned needed a reseal from the head gaskets up by 10 years old / 150K miles if for no other reason than oil leaking everywhere. Timing belts every 50K miles if you want to be on the higher side of reliability. Alternators wear out a brush at about 150K miles like clockwork. Don't use cheap parts. If you have time, space, and other transport for down time, great, we'll help. If you need one reliable car, have no shop, no garage, and can't miss a day or 2 from work, not the best idea....

More and more parts for these are going no longer available. So be ready to scrounge make and adapt parts. They have a few quirks. There are many threads covering them. They are not a big deal once you know them, but you can't expect to get parts in a day for much any more.

Ticking noise from the throttle body. I never did anything about it. Have yet to have an injector fail. Lifter tick is quite different in sound and where it sounds like it comes from.

Model and year would help. If you can, try to find a Subaru factory service manual. You might find scans online / on forum. Or sometimes actual books on ebay. They are much more detailed and worth it if you intend to keep the car.

for the 92 Legacy, you want to post on the newer generation forum. More people who have similar cars will see your question. A general tip - Don't mess with any " idle screw" on a SPFI engine. I have yet to see anyone have that be the problem since the days of carburetors.

Only problem with that method, is that there is no seal when the bleeder is loose. So air can be drawn back into the cylinder through the threads of the bleeder on the release of the pedal.

I have not taken one apart. I do have one that needs a new home. From an ea82 powered wagon.

Looks like the intake is installed reversed from a typical Subaru. Missing the bell housing. Loads of modifications - things capped off.

The ones in the steering wheel. On the back of the air bag.

Ok. So when you reconnect the air bag wires, you have to push the little lock thingys all the way in. Do'h!

There is a light thing up top, but nothing else on it I noticed. The red error light is on the combination meter. The light for the passenger air bag on / off is center of the dash, at the very top, with the clock, and MPG meter stuff. Got on & off the passenger seat a few times, the light switched on / off as you would expect, but the error light stayed on the entire time.

How do I check for error codes? Do they show up in a typical scanner for the emissions engine related trouble code, or do I need some other special teader?