DaveT

a vibration at around those speeds could be a drive shaft universal joint failing. When a needle bearing gets destroyed enough, the shaft gets out of alignment, and at the right speed, resonance makes the amplitude very speed sensitive.

Other things that typically change the clicking of dying axles - loading - acceleration VS engine braking VS coasting. Angle of the axle - where it is in the suspension travel. So yes, unloaded, spinning in the air probably won't be conditions it is under when driving.

Clicking. Noise changes with turn direction. Both point to axle. Or maybe loose axle nut. Aftermarket axles are junk. Very possible either one is bad. But yes, check bearings, and other suspension parts.

it's possible someone installed the disty off a tooth. If it won't get to 20 with the green connectors connected, this may be the cause. The ECU adjusts the timing when the connectors are open, so readings don't reflect what you want to measure.

When you try to check timing with a light, you have to connect the green test connectors. There is a ground to check on a bolt near the thermostat housing. Did you double check the timing belts?

The broken green sensor is not a part for a SPFI or carburetor EA82. I never had a MPFI, so I can't say much about that. The oil pressure sender looks like a normal EA82 SPFI / carb gauge sender. The single wire that connects to it is yellow with a black sripe. That cut wire seems to be in about the right place

A couple of pictures might help.

If it is still working, except for refrigerant, its much easier to go on ebay, get a couple cans of r12 and keep it stock. Better performance also.

The IAC is a cylindrical thing on the front of the throttle body. A hose ells out of the air boot, goes to the right, turns 90 degrees down onto it. Screws.hold the IAC valve to the throttle body. It is weird that it was idling high before, and now is more normal. I don't recall the spec for idle with a stick shift.

The one full revolution is as mentioned above. Tighten the crank pulley bolt is another way to think of it. I don't think it would mattter, it's just to get the drivers side belt to the corectangular position relative to the passenger side belt. After a short test fire, I like to re set the tensioners, because the belts invariably walk into the positions they want to run in, and get a little loose. But this wouldn't effect idle speed like you are experiencing either. A couple degrees of timing is pretty subtle. Also, you cannot get an accurate timing reading unless you connect the green test connectors, as the ECU is adjusting it.

I've been running EA82s since 1988. Not once has replacing a timing belt changed the timing enough to matter at all. The idle screw is the last thing to touch. Never had to turn one of those either. Something else is wrong. Vacuum leak. IAC valve. Bad wire or connection. CTS. Does the CTS you have match the specs for resistance vs temperature of an OEM one?

Factory Service Manual has all of that. Might get lucky on ebay, or if someone in here has one, or a link.

#1 thing to check - timing belt procedure. Did you turn the crank 1 full turn between installing the 2 belts? #2 double check the plug wires. When it runs, is it really rough? Either of these will cause this, really hard to start, won't idle, runs like crap, no power.

These have a child safety "switch" Look on the edges of the door when it's open, above the latch mechanism for a small short toggle lever. It should be up for normal operation, down does not allow the door to be opened from inside. The window, could be in the relay / control stuff, or a broken wire in the cable to the door.

If it's only the boot, clean, re grease & reboot. Even if it makes a little clicking on sharp turns, you are better off doing the same. OEM are NLA , but keep your eyes open for used OEM ones. The ends are painted dark green. Aftermarket are junk, don't waste your time. More parts for these models are NLA also, so be ready to be creative / stock up on parts when you come across them / have a backup car. The link below is not a direct answer to reducing the heat from the cat - it is a side effect of my redesigned exhaust system, however. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

Also, get a pressure plate and the throw out bearing and the pilot bearing and seal.

OK, that's it. clutch is gone.

It's ok to be new at this. Is it spinning 4000rpm while in gear and not (or slowly ) moving? Means Very different problem/s from spinning 4000 in neutral but not having power to climb hills.

Got a chance to measure. Probably not. The Forester lights are bigger diameter.

Are you saying you can get high rpms in neutral, or that the engine is spinning and the car is not (or barely) moving?

Does anyone know if the fog light kit is the same? At a casual first glance, they seem to be the same. Lights and control stalk for the steering column.

I don't have hard evidence, but it is possible that no covers could extend the life. More air flow, so belts and bearings run cooler?

IF the Helicoil doesn't seem secure, move up to Timserts or similar. I would not go to a bigger bolt. I followed the timing belt cover debate while it was hot a few years back. I've been running them without the front covers for a long time now with no problems. I don't do anything crazy, like rally cross or bashing through snow drifts though. It is a lot easier to monitor condition and tension and idler bearings with them open.

I've never had timing belts or idlers go much past 60,000miles. There are 7 hoses in the cooling system. They all age at the same rate, so any non obvious ones are long overdue. If you can get a waterpump, do that along with the belts, and drive it until something real or unavailable breaks. Also depends on how much you are dependant on the car. I run 2 so when one breaks, I have time to fix it.

These gauges are not calibrated with that sort of accuracy. I have had several similar cars, all same GLs and Loyales. Some read around 1/4, some read around 1/3 of where the red mark starts. I just learned what was normal for each car. If it ever goes much above that car's normal, something was wrong. The temp the fan runs at is controlled only by the thermoswitch, which has a defined range of operation.