DaveT

I still need a sample part to make a model from. I only have EA82 stuff.

I don't know how anyone could evaluate a crank and pistons etc. while still assembled, except to rule out totally destroyed maybe. I've driven a few EA82s past 200K miles. Never did anything more than reseal from the head gaskets up. Lapped valves, probably didn't need to. Never checked the springs any more than what one would notice while removing the valves to replace the seals. The EA82 I have with the most known history of, is a 1990. It was in a car I bought in 92, with 15K miles. Put synthetic 10W-40 in it, along with the Amsoil bypass filter. Never changed the oil again, just added new and changed filters. Around 150K miles, did a reseal to stop all the oil leaks, [every one I've had started leaking oil around 100K] and the head gaskets were slightly damaged by a run while low on coolant. . The bearing surfaces and dimensions on the piston rods were all in factory spec. I did not bother with removing the crank / splitting the case. I've seen others running conventional oil, with regular changes with similar low wear. I've resealed oil pumps to fix the noisy lifters a couple times on the several of these I've run. This includes the Micky o-ring, the regular one, AND the shaft seal. Oil pumps are NLA. I seem to have less problems with lifter tick than I see on here. The inside of the engines seems to be cleaner after I've run them with the synthetic than when I first got them. I am still running the 1990 engine in one of my wagons today.

Depends on what level of rebuild. If it was only mildly overheated, or just leaking oil everywhere, Reseal from the head gaskets up can still be done.

I have a 93 and an 87. I intend to run them indefinitely. Plan on stocking up on NLA parts. Getting creative with adapting generic parts when needed. Plan on doing all your repairs, unless you are lucky enough to live near another one of us crazys who run these EA82s. Plan on continuing to have ridiculously low tax bills. No emmisions testing hassles. If it runs and drives you might get 1000 for it from a just anyone kind of buyer - who will be screwed the first time anything real breaks... If it's near mint and no rust you could get more, but there are not a lot of us around... my 2 are very low rust, so I'm not looking for another one. The only trouble I consider "fatal" is when the rust gets out of control.

Going by the diagram in my 1990 FSM for EA82 - The TPS is a pot, one end to GND, top end to +V - probably 5V the computer ICs run on, but I have not verified. The output [wiper] pin should go from near 0 to near power rail. I would have to analyze a bit to determine if 0 = no throttle or 0 = full throttle. But either way, the signal should range from roughly 0 to 5V, varying with position, measured from wiper to GND. If they followed their conventions of wire colors, the black wire is GND, and goes to the 0 throttle end of the pot, and one side of the switch, which is closed at zero throttle. An aftermarket ECU should have details in it's manual about the signal range and it's requirements.

Not likely. Sounds like a bad / corroded connection somewhere. Time for a schematic and a volt meter or test light.

Not likely. Best bet, is finding one with bad rust, or dead engine / transmission as a parts doner. Or maybe someone on the forum has extra parts.

The OEM ones were easy to break. And they fail. My solution: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

There are screws on the bottom. They are very tight, even if not rusted. It takes a LOT of pressure on a screwdriver that fits the cross in the screw well to get them to turn. And vise grips clamped to the shaft of the screw driver. I used part of the car's weight for the force to keep the bit engaged.

I never had an 83... But I had older and newer. None ever had any weird effects switching in and out of 4WD on the fly. Best to switch on straightaways, as opposed to sharp curves. miss matched tires or gear ratios if a trans or rear diff was swapped with the wrong one can cause binding and difficulty switching out, and weird handling.

The max on the printers I have access to is about a 7 inch cube.

I once had one tracking like that. Flipped the belt, and it went to the old path

California cars have an additional sensor, to verify egr operation. Not sure if the ECU is different, or has different programming.

Try looking up lockwasher by dimensions at an industrial parts supplier. Like McMastercarr.com or mscdirect.com.

If the belts were installed correctly, the distributor should not need to be adjusted for timing. If they are off, it may not turn far enough to correct the error, and the valves would still be off. There are lots of threads on how to set / check timing belts on EA82s. I've typed it out a few times, it's a lot of typing. When installing, you must use the 3 ||| lines mark, NOT the Degrees BTDC marks. The 3 lines is almost 180 degrees away from the TDC timing marks. When the middle of the 3 lines is at the arrow on the bell housing, one cam timing hole must be up, the other down. Dead straight up /down. When cranking it by hand to set the position, you should be able to feel compression for each of the 4 cylinders as you turn the crankshaft. The peaks should be evenly spaced. TPS - probably worth looking into that. I haven't had a bad one yet, so I can't say for certain what the symptoms look like.

Just want to be sure things a clear - The timing belts were replaced before the failure. Have they been checked since the failure? Running low on oil or coolant is bad for these engines. Both at the same time is very bad. If it ran above normal temperature while low on coolant, odds are very good you need new head gaskets. Only question is how long before they fail to the point of the engine being unusable. With the 2 diagnostic connectors disconnected, you can read current codes on the LED. Fix those that could cause failure to run first.

I never noticed any changes when replacing or re tensioning the timing belts. Early on, I would check the timing. It never varied. Whistle? Check for a dead bearing or an air leak.

I'll have to investigate TPS soon I think. I see others having trouble with them, it's just a matter of time....

Good job. That's the first time I've seen or heard of the ECU causing this problem.

Propane has less energy per charge than gasoline. EA81 or EA82 engine? Anything you do will reduce the reliability. Cost a lot. Take a lot of time. To get small gains. Parts are rare, and getting scarcer. Install a 2.2EJ engine. A lot of work, but real gains in power and reliability in the engine. And parts are still available. 40% HP increase may not be good for the rest of the drive line, but many have done it.

The vacuum modulator on 86 and up 3ATs is just round, no hex flats. I just use a pair of channel lock pliers to loosen them. Again, I only know 86 and up - on these, there is a switch that the gas pedal trips if you are floored or very near floored. Called the kick down switch, it delays an upshift indefinitely, or triggers a downshift if you floor it and there is a lower gear to switch to.

Slipping is more likely a band or clutch wear. Governor is part of what decides when to upshift. The modulator is on the side, down low. 1 vacuum line to it. Also helps with the decision about when to upshift. Speedo cable screws in on top of the 3AT

Need pictures... I have one removed from an 86 or 88 3AT not sure if they would be different.

As far as compressors and sitting... The pulley is mounted on a double race ball bearing. It freewheels. When the clutch is energized, the compressor rotor is engaged to the pulley. The compressor rotor is connected to the flat plate with the 3 tabs sticking off of it that are for the safety [seized compressor] cutout. That is what you want to turn to see if the compressor is stuck. You do also want to spin the pulley to check the ball bearings, but that's a lot easier to fix than the internals. Sitting shouldn't hurt them, there is refrigeration oil in the Freon loop, and it is circulated through the system. Sitting outdoors, in high humidity, and wide temperature swings, with open lines, well that could cause problems.

I've seen one. Iirc, from reading the forum for years, they seem to fail a lot, so if yours is working, you are lucky. Always be on the look out for a spare.