DaveT

yep, that's what I was thinking about. There should be a green set and a white set of single pin connectors for diagnostics and reset. they should be near each other. Leave them disconnected for now. Read the blinks on the LED under the steering column for codes.

The only way I've ever seen or read about the fuel pump cycling on off is the diagnostic connectors being connected. Note - there are a few green connectors, are you sure you found the right ones?

I drive one of mine nearly every day. Keeping a close watch on the cooling system condition is #1 thing to do to avoid problems.

Yes, I built my roof rack with aluminum and used stainless hardware. Sometime later, when to check or modify, and yikes, bolts were very stuck in holes. Investigated a bit, and yes, it is a thing, bad combination. I re did the thing using anti seize, been Ok since. I didn't go to steel in that application, to avoid.rust stains on the paint, but on an engine, that's not an issue. The strength and expansion rates are. The anti seize solves the stuck bolts problem on the engine.

My preferred way is to have a spare engine. Rebuild / recondition / reseal as needed, while I limp the car along. Swap engine over a weekend. Like GD wrote, if it's not knocking, The most it probably needs would be rings. You could just reseal from the head gaskets up, and let it burn oil if you don't do lots of miles. I just would not expect any used engine you find to be ready to run without a reseal, as they are over 30 years old. It might be better than what you have though, since it sounds like your engine has had multiple overheats, it needs head gaskets.

Any EA82 you find will likely need a reseal, from the headgaskets up. And you also get the unreliability of the timing belts. You would also have to find a carburetor one, as the spfi swap is a major rewiring project. As long as the engine you have now hasn't been so severely overheated as to wreck the bearings or rings, it sounds like it needs a reseal. Does it make any knocking sounds?

My first hand knowledge is from 86 through 93.

My 92 and 93 have it. They also had the annoying motorized seatbelts.

On the last models of Loyale, they made a solenoid interlocked with the brake pedal that prevents the shift button from being pressed / lever from moving. I'm more likely to disable the "feature" since my 87 is identical, and does not have this interlock.

Oh, 1/4" thick would be enough. Be safer to go 3/8" . If you need more torque than that can handle, you'll probably need to go with my custom air hammer bit to break it loose. It is difficult to get enough force holding the socket engaged with the nut when large torque is applied.

Mine has gotten intermittent. Soon I'll be digging into it.

It's a rubber grommet. Try a good hardware store.

Heat it up with a space heater and a heat gun before you attempt to remove any more bolts. Get it near normal operating temperature, it makes a big difference. When you reassemble, use anti seize compound. I would not use stainless steel in an aluminum block. The electrolysys and corrosion that occurs is worse than steel.

+1 what czny wrote

Weld a nut to the end of the broken bolt. Need a skilled welder. The heat will also loosen it up. Carefully unscrew as soon as it is not glowing. Other tip, for future repairs - before attempting to remove any of these bolts that have never been removed, get the engine up to normal operating temperature. Then carefully begin to work on the bolts involved. Makes a huge difference in getting them out successfully without snapping them.

The only way I have removed an EA82 model's windshield successfully is to use one of the lower note guitar strings from an electric guitar. The ones that have a second wire wound around the main single strand. Cut all the windshield glue you can away with a razor knife. Poke the pointy end through the windshield glue. Once you get it through, attach steel wire to each end, and add a couple of sticks for handles. Saw it and guide it around. It is a real workout. And you have to be careful, as you can break the string. I tried a tool before, it had a L shaped blade on a handle with a short cable and 2nd handle to pull with. It had 2 problems. One, I am not strong enough to pull it single handedly in some of the positions required , and the other, is the blade was too thick, and it cracked the windshields I tried it on.

Might be better to try the newer generation sub forum, since this is an EJ22 related problem.

On the Subaru oil pump, if you have the oem gauge, the port for the pressure switch is plugged, so you can just use an adapter and connect the mechanical gauge there.

The near center vs near battery are quite different.

Yes, that port is where you can install an after market gauge. Some of the gauge companies also offer adapters. I also know that Amsoil had a kit with them for the bypass filter.

Make sure you get a British tapered pipe thread adapter. That port is not metric, or NPT.

Oil pressure - the dash gauge may not be accurate, get a mechanical one for testing. There is a 1/8" British tapered pipe thread plug on the pump, near the bigger port for the gauge sender. Do not try to use a 1/8" NPT pipe fitting, or a metric one. Timing way off and choke not working will cause all sorts of trouble.

I have done a windshield or 2. Also had one of the places that comes to the car do it. Getting the old one out is the hard part.

There are 7 coolant system hoses on the EA82 engine. Be sure they are all not ridiculously old, and in good condition, including the pipes they slide onto.

There is also a weep hole on the bottom of the water pump.