DaveT

Wow, how odd. I don't remember ever seeing any other than Japan.

The forum change did that, everyone had to get reset. Did you check the grounds? Previous posts had mentioned many trouble codes. That is not typical. Many of these parts are NLA, so it's hunting for the rare one in a junkyard, ebay, or finding someone who is done with them, and has leftover parts to get rid of. Some parts may be adapted from other vehicles, but I have not seen anything regarding the TPS.

Most likely to be NOS.

Yes, a newer different radiator might be a good idea. For all we know, the one in it may be NLA.

Look for German made cars for the radiator source. Not Japanese.

There are no solenoids under the dash. Those are relays. NONE of them operate the starter.

There is no relay in the starting circuit of these cars. The only solenoid is on the side of the starter motor, it throws the pinion gear forward to engage the flywheel.

Does not look like any Subaru radiator I have seen. But I have not seen all of them.

On the back of the starter there is a small wire. Unplug it, and get 12v to the terminal on the starter, to verify that the starter cranks. These cars did not have a starter relay, and it is common for one of several connections or switches in the circuit that feeds the wire mentioned above to become high enough resistance to make the startery not engage. Although, this usually begins as an intermittent click no crank problem.

It generally makes it easier and more useful for others down the road to make separate threads for separate problems. I have a Dynahoe 190, and have worked on a few backhoes.

The temperature sensor does not rely on the coolant for ground. While it isn't an insulator, water is a poor conductor compared to aluminum.

I have a dual range transmission available.

CHECK THE 15 amp fuses. Fuse box is behind a cover, lower left of the steering column. There is one marked "meter" near the center.

I am not 100% sure on an 84, but 86 through 93 are what I run - on these, this is the symptom that one of the brushes in the alternator has worn down and is not making good contact with the slip ring. It happens around 150k miles, like clockwork.

Only California has 8. The duplicate, I don't know. The link only goes to a "select part" kind of table, no way to tell. 86 could be carburetor, or possibly SPFI, I don't know exactly when they changed. I had an 86 carb, and an 87 SPFI. Sometimes it is easier to use the "contact us" link and let them sort out what they are looking for.

My 92 had those annoying seat belts. They were always flakey. My 93 has them, but they still work. When they get flakey, I'll install a set of pre automatic lap belts, I saved from a 1990. Yes, you want to try to find a FSM or scanned pages to download, as they have very complete schematics.

Some of the old R-12 systems are pretty good. Just a guess, maybe less worried about MPG back then, so rhe A/C might be sized more for cooling than efficiency. A/C is a few HP load, so it is noticable on a small engine.

I stumbled across something in my FSM whilr.looking for something else, that might explain the 7 vs 8. The FSM list showed a 7 vs 8 depending on 49 state vs CA.

There is a thread somewhere about fronts, that even had pictures and part numbers for replacement 4WD style fronts. I got a pair with the info. Too long ago to remeber now the details.

IF the FPCU was powered while wet, especially with water that came through a rusty area, it will need to be cleaned washed and dried before it can even be troubleshot. water with ions conducts. If there was voltage between 2 pins for any length of time, corrosion [electrolysis] happens. Not in minutes, but longer = worse. Even without power, the contamination could cause malfunction. Bypass for testing, for sure. It is good to have something kill the fuel pump in the event of an accident that shuts down the engine.

"Crank angle sensor" is the distributor / pickup that on an older car would have been the points. 12 has nothing to do with your trouble. 61 probably not. I've never seen this code. Weird idle problems i have seen with NO codes - failing CTS - coolant temperature sensor - the 2 wire sensor on the lower thermostat housing. This can cause all kinds of weird drivability problems, as the fuel mix isn't correct for the engine temperature. Broken wire to the IAC valve, or dead / stuck IAC valve. idle air control valve. If this is the problem, you can maintain idle with careful application of the gas pedal, and still drive. The fusible link burning up is odd. A short in the alternator output could burn it out. All of the other loads on that link are fused at much lower amps, so those fuses should blow before the link. Other possibility, is alternator output totally out of control, pushing out full power - but I've not had the link burn out from that, just over voltage, which I regulated by turning on and off accessories to avoid frying electronics and the battery until I got home.

I would need a factory service manual schematic to try to troubleshoot. I only have 86 and up.

The bearing should be replaceable. Not a bad idea to get a part number off of it now. If getting back on the road quick is an issue, get a spare.

The original older OEM 4WD struts have nuts on them that let you adjust the height about 1" At some point, they dropped them. 2WD are fixed at the low height.

Don't know if I can find a part number. There were 2 variants of A/C I am aware of, if it is an EA82 engine. One, the compressor is closest to the battery, the other, the alternator is closest to the battery.