DaveT

IF you are up to the challenge of scrounging parts that are NLA, have the space and time.... Me, I'd look for a used engine, and expect to do a reseal from the head gaskets up. Tricky part is how do you evaluate the crank condition before buying?

The rear axles.should be good with clean, regrease, new boots. Bearings failing or bad u joint makes that roaring sound.

You will need cvj grease. NAPA has it. You need specifically CVJ grease. A tool to tighten the bands that seal the boot. The front and rear are different. If they are not making hideous noise or vibration, they will probably be good after cleaning, re greasing and new boots. When you get them apart, it's normal to see very Shiney areas where they run. You don't want to see rust, oitting, big scratches and stuff like that.

I got the fuel pump today, wow it's nice. All brass.

EGR code is the solenoid coil. Every one of those I've seen is the coil is open. How to fix for good - http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html I have never had any EGR open solenoid problem cause an effect on the drive-ability of the car. Injector code sounds like the most likely place to fix the lack of power trouble.

Also - check the wiring to the CTS - put an ohm meter n the wires at the ECU, and wiggle the harness on the engine. Any variations indicate a cracked wire, and will cause the same kind of random trouble a flakey CTS causes.

2 options - find a used combination meter, and swap it out. OR get an add on meter. You only have to remove the trim piece around the speedometer / combination meter assembly to get at it, not like pulling the entire dashboard.

The fuel pump should do a short run, then stop, until cranking. Once the engine fires, the cutout allows it to continue running, that's for safety in a wreck that kills the engine. The pump is a DC mo0tor, so it could get intermittent. I had one do that once. They are NLA also. There is a thread on here that discussed alternatives to the OEM / aftermarket replacements that are still available. I have one on the way, as mentioned in my thread about the new to me running problem. I haven't had a key switch failure yet. I did make a "power cord" for the stock pump from a harness from a car I disassembled, for testing such things. Apply power with that or test leads, and see if it starts runs normally. If the IAC valve is dead, or the wire to it is open, it won't idle. But it will if you feather the gas pedal. Also, if something happens, that results in a flooded condition, it is very hard to get restarted. The procedure to clear a flood is to hold the gas pedal most of the way down and crank. After a while, it will start to try to run, sputter, die, etc.but then finally run. But have a new battery! One at the end of it's life may not have enough reserve left.

If it reads the correct resistance at a number of temperatures, and that is read steady, not jumping around, only slowly drifting as it heats or cools, then it is probably good. If it is jumping around, that's bad, like the bad one I had. Yes, the fuel pump should run momentarily when you first turn the key. I'll add this part to my list of pieces to find replacements for....

While waiting for the pump, I got a chance to test the flow from the tank via my generator port. Seems fine, fuel gravity flowed at a rate that seemed normal for the line, and not blocked pickup. The port is T'ed in before the stock pump.

so far so good. The axle I have them on is on the side where the exhaust is. The boot on the transmission end looks like it is sweating oil or something a little, but the outer one is dry, like I would expect. I'll have to wipe it off, and see if it comes back...

The valve seals control oil from being sucked into the intake / exhaust ports. It would run fine without them, just burn a lot more oil. If they are old, I'd put new ones in. If they are new, check the ones on any stuck valves to make sure they are not damaged. A stuck valve would certainly make it run horribly.

Oh, that saves me a bunch of time! Thank you! I can cap one of the leaking ones off, at least for a quick fix.

While I was searching for them, I saw one on the Napa website that looked similar except the threaded part was smaller od. I could tap out the oem one and use it for an adapter. Other idea, use a needle valve to make an adjuster, and thread that into the old base. I shift the gears when I want them with the selector lever anyway. They almost always upshift too soon for me. Not sure what a fixed modulator would do / if I could find a setting that would be acceptable.

Yes, I cut one open last night. Can't even see how the oil was getting through the diaphragm.

Last night, I didn't find them on rockauto... I'll try again. The 2wd, I'm starting to think it might be worth getting, since the entire 3 speed part is the same as my 4wd ones. Still need a couple 4wd ones ultimately though. The diff and final reduction ratios are different.

Yep, I bought some of those shafts a few years ago, knowing exactly that. There were fewer than 10 in the country. Using a clutch bothers my arthritis, so that's not an option.

It is looking like the vacuum modulator for the 3AT is no longer available anywhere. ...

I'll have to double check. ..

There is a switch in each seat for the belt system. It is possible that someone cut it to stop them from moving. When there is no weight in the seat, they go to the open / no occupant position.

sounds like possibly blocked exhaust to me. Loosen the nuts on the header studs, drop the flanges a half inch. take a short drive - it will be loud, but if the power is back, you found the problem.

I have one with the automatic belts. I'd lean toward replacing them with the ones I saved from a GL. I have always hated the automatic ones, just haven't had time yet.

So far, the stuck pump is still stuck. Ordered a carter P5000 and a strainer.

Update: The spark plug wires all look ok. Not brand new, but not ancient. NGK. Cap and rotor look ok, nothing unusual there. As a test, I took a spare wire and plug, and connected that to one of the distributor outputs, and let the plug body contact the wire to the plug of that cylinder. I only ran this at idle, but the spark could jump a good solid 1/2" and not even bother the engine running. I have a pressure gauge T'ed into the inlet side of the throttle body. Amp and voltmeters wired to the fuel pump feed. So I can monitor these when I actually risk going out and getting stuck on a hill.... Letting one of my spare fuel pumps soak with fresh gas inside it - they are stuck and won't spin. NAPA lists a replacement that looks identical, but they are out of stock can't back order, and pricey. I remember someone mentioning a low cost fuel pump for some other car that works, but not what it was. Also remembered that I had installed a tap on the fuel system on this car so I can plug my generator into it to use the car as a fuel source. So I can use that port as a test to verify the fuel tank is not clogged. I used boating quick connect fuel connectors.

Test the CTS. Then test the injector if the CTS is good.