DaveT

Ok need my manuals, they are at home. Another thing check one of those good ones, but with the key in run position. If it stays good, that indicates that you don't have a flakey connection in that first level of circuitry. If the power goes away, you back track toward the battery.

Ok need to see if it is getting to any fuses. Some should have 12v. 12.59 means battery very near full charge. Verify that both sides of fuses have the same voltage.

That's the way I was reading it, just wanted to be sure. Check for voltage on both sides of the fusible links. A lot of the electric stuff runs through the ignition switch, and possibly a relay or 2. I can look at schematics later tonight. Need readings of voltage yes no at various points to try to point in a direction to go furthwr.

No metal gaskets in there. Once you get the front covers off post a picture or 2

Also you should be able to tell with that method - the sand marks should be even across the entire face, and the head should not rock.

The timing belt covers? The outer 2 L and R should come off without a lot of other dissasebly. Might be more of a pain, but doable.

I have just used the post apocalyptic head resurfacing method described in an old thread on thus forum. Once you grind the marks from the fire ring off, they are flat.

Another check to verify as I am not there... Put the key in rum position. Does the dash light up with all the warning lights? Do the headlights turn on?

The red fusible link powers the horn and the hazard lights, so it is ok. The black fusible link wire should be connected to the heavy white wire in the bottom of the fusible link box. That white wire is the main feed from the alternator back to the battery, the feed to the ignition switch, and the feed to the A/C fuse. You need to check for voltage to ground [car body or battery negative] at places along those paths. Voltmeter, or even just a 12V light bulb with some wires. To find this problem, we have to check things and rule out what is correct. Using the meter or light bulb, is 12V on the stud on the back of the alternator? It is the single connection with a fat white wire held on by a nut. There should be a black rubber cover over it. Be careful not to short it to any other metal. If power is there with the car off, the fusible link is ok.

is it automatic or stick?

Also check the crimps on the wire that go into the bottom of the fusible link box. An open there could explain the failure. Only hazard, horn and key chime? I'll look at a schematic and see if anything looks likely. Also, a relay clicking is only testing the coil side. The contacts could be non functional.

Don't try to pull them by the small lifter part, or the cap...

Oh, missed the new links... tracing with a voltmeter.

If it won't crank.... Fusible link box. I once faked myself into thing I had a bad problem, the car must be in neutral or park to get the starter to run. Not sure what lockout might be on a stixk, bit check those too.

A/C use probably coincidence. Unless you have proof the timing belts and idlers were replaced with the last 50k miles, that is most likely why it shut off. If it cracks with an un even rythm, timing belt broke. Minor tip, Loyale is covered better in the old generation sub forum, that is more of us will see it there.

I have removed some. Use vice grips with scraps of aluminum or copper to protect the sides of the lifter. Use a thin pry bar to work between the vice grip jaws and another piece of metal or wood to protect the head. A burr forms on the edge of the bucket that traps the lifter, right under the spring clip. My experience with the tick, is the reseal fixes it. Never had to really bother with the lifters. It may ocasionally occur on startup then fade away. Not sure if makes any difference, I run Amsoil synthetic 10w40 in my good engines. I had one basket case engine a while back, that I ran on waste oil, what ever cheap oil, etc. I found. It didn't tick either.

I am not familiar with the particular model... But I used to have steering wheel shake at certain speeds when I was running the white wagon wheels on my GL. It would sometimes come and go as the 2 front tires shifted phase [one turning slightly slower than the other] - when the out of balance weight is in the same place on both wheels, [say the top as example] no shake. As the off balance weight drifts to different timing, during even a long slow turn, the shake would build to a maximum then fade away. It turned out to be balancing, and the ONLY place that could do it right, was a dealer.

Got the driveshaft out tonight. It is possible to get it out without removing the exhaust, if you can remove the heat shields. The bad bearing in the picture is really bad. Has visible play now that it's out. Feels horrible, like all sorts of chewed up metal in there.

This reminds me of the time I needed a part for my Dynahoe. It is a big loader backhoe. The part was a double universal joint that drives the main hydraulic pump. Like many parts for our 30 year old Subarus, lots are no longer availavle. And dealer parts are big money. I had spent a fair amount of time looking for parts to rebuild it etc., and not had much luck, so I called the local parts place. They had one. The last one. I asked how much. And had to ask are you sure. $45. 00. I'll be right there! I was expecting $450.00. An hour or so later, I still had a hard time believeing I had the right part, on my way home, and less than $50.00.

Yes, that's right - looking at the pistons through the spark plug holes tells you nothing about the camshaft timing, or the belt condition. And there are 2 belts on EA82s, if the passenger side belt broke, the distributor will still turn. If the drivers side belt broke, it won't turn, and it would not even try to run obviously. I did see somewhere notes about where the rotor in the distributor should be pointing at TDC. But that doesn't check the passenger side belt.

Yes it's expensive here too. I know everything is even worse down under. But it's a one time thing, at least for gearboxes. I found out about it from a Co worker around 30 years ago. After trying it on the first car, eventually switched to all their lubs. The ATF makes the 3ATs shift better, most notably when cold also. Run the engine oil with their bypass filters. Never change oil again. Back then, it was about 50$ a year to be a dealer, and get the stuff wholesale, so I did that. Never got into being a real sales man/ dealer, they recently changed things, now you can pay a lower amount for preferred customer pricing, or more to be a dealer, so I switched to pc.

Only have to take the left and right side timing belt covers off to see the camshaft marks. The crank mark is on the flywheel.

This is all interesting to read. I've been thinking about replacing the 30yr old rubber in my suspension systems... but I don't want to add maintenance items.

Goes back a while, but when I had a 4 speed, - 1978 4WD wagon - I used Amsoil synthetic gear lube in it. It shifted nice even when it was sitting in 0 degree weather overnight. The normal stuff, it would be so gummy, the car would slow down so much by the time the shifter would move from 1st to 2nd, you almost wanted to be back in 1st.

Not sure. I've had a number of them apart, the plunger contact is a lot larger than the fixed ones, so the wear it sees is far less. DC tends to arc more metal away from one contact than the other. The looser on these starters is one of the fixed ones. You will have to go through many of the fixed contacts before the plunger one is worn out.