DaveT

I was thinking similar. Send me the oem broken boot ones.

Actually, most cars end up junked because one thing broke, or maybe 2, and most people just go buy another one.

Ah, didn't know that. There were never many of either that I came across.

GL-10 was the turbo version of the GL.

You did belts before successfuly, so you know the one full rotation of the crank before installing the second belt, or the trick with one cam 180 degrees off the marks... Any chance a coupl plug wires are swapped?

Actually, there are 2 common causes of click no crank. High resistance in the wiring to the solenoid, which is most easily fixed by the relay mod. And the other is one of the 2 contacts in the solenoid has worn down to the point it no longer closes the circuit to the starter motor. That contact can be replaced. In these cases, the click no crank starts as an intermittent problem that gradually gets worse.

If it is click and no crank, it's time for the relay mod. Lots of threads on here about it. 14v might be a touch high, if measured with probes on the battery posts - not the clamps. After a full day at rest, no loads, don't open the door, check the resting voltage on the battery. 12.6 is fully charged. 12.0 is fully discharged.

That is not working right either. If it were in my garage. I'd double / triple check all the timing stuff, and the added things I mentioned above. Then the CTS - that can fail and not cause a code, and make very hard to start. If it is running really rough, only wants to run above idle with partial throttle, that also I have seen with 1 cam mistimed or a pair of plug wires swapped. Maybe a big [but would be hard to miss] vacuum leak. IF everything is correct, the normal timing adjustment range the distributor allows will effect fuel economy, power, knocking, etc, but not really make it run rough or smooth.

I have always repaired things at the component level. Repaired electronics from before I touched a car. Remans were not common back when, and I often had more time than money. Also, I've read about how much trouble people have had with aftermarket alternators, so I'm not interested in those. Here is the place I get parts: https://www.aspwholesale.com/index.php They have pretty much everything, for tons of alternators. One of these days, I have a feeling I'm going to have to figure out how to rebuild a water pump, since sooner or later, they will be NLA. The only question with those is where to find the seals for the coolant. The FSM actually has instructions on how to do it.

As long as the boots are intact, the 30 year old ones are most likely still good.

I've alway repaired my alternators. I have had decent luck with napa parts fitting and quality in general. I always buy their higher grade parts, not the cheap ones. Original alternators usually fail around 150k miles due to one brush wearing out. Like clockwork. I've also had a couple rectifiers fail. When I repair them, I replace the bearings also.

My guess is GL, just going by the year. Don't know about RXs. Timing beltsand idlers every 50 to 60k to be safe. All several cooling system hoses are overdue. Plastic radiator overdue. Pretty likely a full reseal from the headgaskets up by this age and miles.

The color difference may not always translate across all manufacturers, but the contact seals I've bought all have the red color. The NTN, NSK, and Nachi bearings I have are all red. Also, if you look really close where the seal meets the inner race, depending on the brand, you can see a lip, or the gap is very close to non existent.

Cool!

You cannot adjust the distributor / timing with the connectors not connected, the ECU will make adjustments, and the reading is not correct. If the distributor is way off position, it may have been installed with it's gear off a tooth or 2, or have some internal problem. There may be a picture somewhere showing the rotor position for TDC of #1 cylinder, I'd want to verify that. Check for play, etc.. I have not seen a case where connecting the green test mode wires caused the engine to die, that's weird. I checked the timing marks on one of my flex plates - I have 3AT cars, no clutches. It has marks that are 2 degree increments. Determined by the 10 mark and the 20 mark, that have actual numbers, and the four tick marks between them.

@ 1 Lucky's pictures - - YIKES!

SPFI does not have vacuum lines to the disty. IIRC, the green connectors HAVE to be connected to tell the ECU to not mess with the timing when you set the distributor position. Trying to set it with the connectors not connected, will not give a proper setting. If the timing is that messed up, it's not the adjustment, you need to verify all the timing marks are correctly positioned as if replacing the timing belts. I've been running EA82s since 1988. Several different cars. Almost never had to touch the distributor position. Never had to move it more than a few degrees from the original position. Even after replacing head gaskets and timing belts.

Ther is a leak somewhere. Probably very small now, and it evaporates on the hot block, or exhaust. There are a bunch of coolant hoses that should be replaced if they are old, not just the 4 most people think of. Running over normal temperature while low on coolant is very bad for headgaskets. Check for air in the cooling system by squeezing the upper radiator hose. Listen for gurgles and the jiggle pin. Ideally there should be no air. A small amount that doesn't change might be ok. If the air increases, and the overflow keeps going down, you have to find the problem before it gets worse.

All of these that I have owned, by this age and miles, were leaking oil from the oil passage through the head gaskets also.

There are 3 kinds of seals: The metal shields, which are not really seals. Rubber seals, typically black. Contact rubber seals, typically reddish orange. The last are the best at keeping crud and moisture out and grease in.

I did headgaskets in a 1976 in the car. Once. Those were a lot simpler than an ea82. After that 1 time, I made a stand to redo engines on. Reseal a spare, get it all ready, then do the swap into the car. But I have space and spares and the stuff...

Water test is good. I tested mine in car. Since it was still driveable, I just connected my ohm meter when I got home, and made a number of readings as the engine cooled down. In my case, the resistance was jumping around, not gradually changing with temperature like it should be.

It's been years since I've seen a DL. I had a 1978 with 4 round headlights, and modified the lighting - Put 4 quartz halogen H4 Hi / Lo lamps on it. Made a custom harness and relay box and control ppanel on the dash. I could set it to look and function normally, or a number of other additional combinations - Either pair of low beams, dual = quad low beams. high beams with lows on also, and all filaments energized, which was 55W*4=220W and 60W*4=240W for a total of 460Watts of light out front. Along with a pair of 55W fog lights. I also had externally mounted heavy duty rectifiers for the alternator, because of course the internal ones died. This was all back before I was a homeowner, and had more time to play with mods. I've thought about doing the 4 square DL system on my Loyales, but the list of projects is so long. It would be easier to make LEDs anyway, and I wouldn't need a bigger alternator.

If the nuts are seized on the studs, get new studs and nuts. Use anti seize compound when you reassemble. If the nuts are not too badly stuck, I have clamped the stud in a vise, with scraps of aluminum to protect the threads. Heat the nut with a torch if needed. But if they are very rusty and crusty, it's still better to get new ones.

As far as I know, the heads are the same, except for the egr port. I never swapped one, or examined or tested the idea.