DaveT

Burning a quart per 300 miles is not enough to make visible smoke. I had an EA82 that was doing that. It had been overheated pretty badly, It had no knock or any other bad symptoms, so I resealed it, but didn't think of checking the oil rings. It even passed emissions. I ran it for years on used oil and whatever cheap oil I came across, until one of the heads cracked.

You can try it. The EGR is used to reduce the combustion temperature, emissions control. Some have blocked or disabled them. When the EGR solenoid has failed on mine, [leaving the EGR valve closed = same as blocking] I never noticed any change in drive ability. YMMV

Got the car up off the wheels today. Ran it in gear, wheels spinning. Nothing conclusive listening through a hose to each hub. Not much via a rod either. After a while, I did catch a couple mettalic creaks. I checked the driveshaft after shutting it down. On the rear universal joint, one of the cross shaft seals is gone. Bare shiny metal and rust powder. Hmmmmm. Wheels off the ground - [note - the concrete blocks used are solid.] Bad U joint -

Not a problem, there are lots of things that can go wrong - it helps to hear about what are common failures to save time.

That will do it. No idle when that wire is open. I had one do that.

I don't think alcohol would bother it. It has to deal with fuel etc. The CTS can fail and cause all kinds of idle and starting problems. Read the blinks on the led on the ECU under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic panel to see it.

The noise didn't change with quick left right steering. I'll have to try someplace in a parking lot where I can go in a tight circle.

The car has developed a low growl / rumble vibration and sound that varies with road speed. Feel it in the steering wheel, and the seat. At certain speeds, things in the cabin rattle. 175,000 Miles. What's most common - wheel bearing? Drive shaft?

If it is a stock EA82 Loyale from 92, the MAF is the chunk on the air cleaner box. It should start and run with or without the intake boot attached to the throttle body, but obviously the ECU can't fine tune the mixture with it off. The ECU does not try to fine tune the mixture until the engine is at normal operating temperature.

Anti diesel solenoid shuts off fuel at idle. Must be powered open to idle. Accelerator pump output was a visible squirt / stream of fuel on the carbs I dealt with. It's safest to look with the engine off...., hold the choke open, open the throttle by hand, look down the primary. Be aware of possible splash of fuel.

It's been a long time since I did anything with a carb. 1 sounds like choke and or high idle adjustment. 2 sounds like the accelerator pump is not pumping. Did it run correctly before?

Is the cranking rythm even like it always was? If a timing belt broke, it will be oddly uneven. Other easy check - pull the cap off the distributor. Have someone watch the rotor and someone crank. Of use a socket to turn the crank pulley bolt. If the rotor doesn't move, it timing belt time. The coolant temperature sensor can make hard starting also.

Dealer. Theoretically, a good industrial supply place but you have to have dimensions for them to belp.

What is this 90 degrees twist? Never heard of it. Squealing is caused by too loose. Cars with power steering and or a/c would use 2 belts.

The temperature sensor tells the ECU how much fuel the engine needs to run. A cold engine needs a LOT more fuel. It works similar to the choke on a carburetor. So if the sensor has failed in a way the the ECU thinks the engine is hot, it won't give it enough fuel to start and run when cold. I had a CTS go intermittent on one of mine a while back. It was causing all sorts of odd behavior. From hard to start, to sudden high idle when warm at a stop. It gradually got bad enough and consistent enough to figure out what it was. I figure that sort of sensor, close to 30 years old, it's due.

More force is often not the way to go.. Time to get a Dremel and some carving burrs.

Check the coplant temperature sensor. 2 wire sensor on the lower part of of the thermostat housing. EAC? You mean IAC?

Yeah, start with the one you have, if it's in decent shape. Add a couple of electric fans for when it isn't moving.

I don't know how it can run more than a few minutes at idle with no load air cooled.... Cooling EA82s is the most important thing about keeping them running. The OEM cooling system was just barely adequate, so start there, as anything less is asking for trouble....

Um, yikes! I'd never apply that much force. Unless you are 100% certain that it was all going to be perfectly aligned with the bore, and even then... This is more of a light tapping wiggling gradually situation. I had to carefully work one out of an engine. Don't remember the model, but the ones i have worked on are all pretty similar. It might be more stuck now, if it were pulled that hard. Might have to cut the piece into 2 pieces to get it out if it won't budge. Not fun, but a dremel with a side cutting bit would do it, lots of care and patience, to avoid cutting into the block. If you end up going this route, watch out, the chips are nasty sharp little needles.

+1 el freddo - the crank pulleys are right there, with guides. It isn't going to walk off in the short distance between the oil pump and the crank.

The oil pump pulley looks like possibly pressed metal or something odd. I would not try to weld one. Maybe braze. A sheet metal shop with a LASER cutter could fabricate new guide pieces. They would probably want drawings or model files. The originals were staked on.

Holding it with an old belt and using a right angl impact driver might do it.

Oh, the original question was if the oil pump pulley would swap with a crank pulley. Or that's what I thought I read.... To replace the oil pump pulley, yes, remove the pump so you can hold the rotor to get the nut on and off. I think I remeber trying to hold the pulley with an old timing belt, and getting nowhwere.

You can't swap the pulleys. I can look around to see if I have an extra one.