DaveT

Exhaust shields rattle. The grease may quiet the bad u joint, but it won't save it, it's dead. Get a new one on the way, but don't panic.

Make sure everything is off. Disconnect the negative battery wire. Connect an amp meter between the negative battery post and the wire. If you suspect a large parasitic draw, use a 12v bulb so you don't fry the meter.

Yes, pull the hose off, see what changes while idling. It should still idle, but not the same.

+1 what Gloyale wrote.

Now that you mention it, IIRC, the pipe after the Y I went 2" - because I could buy decent pre made flanges that size. Couldn't find smaller ones, only bigger. And I didn't want to fabricate more than the 4 I did for the heads.

For the solenoids - http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

Not much difference sound wise. Not leaking like the rusted old ones, so quieter. The ID is a size bigger than the stock pipe. So far, the old mufflers are still holding, but I'll have to decide something on them sooner or later. Don't want noise.

I watched the entire Roadkill series in a few days after I found it. A few of the related ones. It all kind of blurred together. Want another extreme mod video series? Look up project binky.

I don't think that's it's planned, it's just what happens when the output slowly drops due to the worn out brush vs a complete failure.

The metal lines are mostly just holding things in place in stead of using floppy hoses all over. The egr pipe uses the same flare like fitting on both ends. Yeah, on an older model I vaguely remeber a 2 bolt flange on one end. Blocking or deleting the egr doesn't make a big difference in how it runs, at least in my experience. The fsm has good sketches of how all that vacuum stuff connects.

Roadkill!

Your alternator quit around or a little farther than all of my original OEM ones did. Due to one of the brushes wearing down to where it doesn't contact the slip ring any more. I am going by the mileage, and your description of the dash lights faintly glowing at idle.

For a start at least...

Try flipping the belt over, so the other side is toward the engine. If that makes no difference, try a new idler.

Yes, one of the 2 I built is now on its second car. It is also very nice if I have to do anything that can be made easier by removing the exhaust, since o used all stainless hardware, it just un bolts. It is also lighter than a stock system by a lot, so easier to handle. It passed CT emmisions testing, and if the catalytic dies, it's an $80 part.

Woulda pic of a stock ea82 spfi be any help?

An EA82 SPFI has noticeable power over a carburetor EA82. Spec sheet says it's only 84HP @ 5200RPM vs 90HP @ 5600RPM, but it does feel different. I do not miss having to adjust points, and timing at all. If you find one, plan on resealing from the head gaskets up, and all 7 coolant hoses, and timing components. You would also want the harness and ECU to convert a non EA82 car to run an E82. Different fuel pump also.

For EA82s- OEM Dealer exhaust - costs a lot, lasts 8+ years in CT [snow / salt] IF you don't let a catalytic die. Aftermarket from pretty much any parts store - much cheaper, wont last anywhere near as long. What I ended up doing: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html

The ECU LED is view able through a hole in the ECU case. The plastic trim panel under the steering column must be removed to be able to see that hole. That is where you read any codes. Usually, the check engine light will be on if there are any codes - especially if they are related to a malfunction that is happening while you are reading the LED blinks.

They way to avoid the nuts seizing to the studs is to use anti size compound. The only time I have had to deal with those stuck nuts is the first time I had to pull the header off. New studs, Stainless nuts [if available] and anti seize, no problem with later work.

There is supposed to be a gasket between the head and the y pipe flange. They do not usually survive being loose or removal unless pretty new.

The o2 sensor is not used for anything until the engine is at normal operating temperature. Then only fine tuning of the mix for clean burning.

Ok, I got mixed up by the terms used. Studs are used in the head to y pipe. Bolts are used in the flanges. There are gaskets between flanges. The I use 10mm or 3/8" stainless steel nuts and bolts on the flanges. It's pretty common for a flange to rot out on the second cat. If the gasket was damaged, a new bolt won't stop the leak. The flimsy hose going up to the air cleaner is not carrying exhaust gasses, only air from around the shields on the exhaust pipes. It's preheat to help warm up the engine and avoid icing in the carb.

That is weird. The way it varies. Never had one doing that. It is a spfi fuel system. At one point, it does sound like there may be a vacuum leak in the video. But those I've not seen make the surging, just the thin hissing sound.

The studs are 10mm x 1.25 pitch. Studs are better, the entire length of the thread is engaged in the head before any load is applied. I've used helicoils to fix mine. Others have used 7/16" threaded rod or studs, since all you need to do is tap the head with that size.