DaveT

I just measured a new Fel Pro head gasket, it's .075" thick, measured where the fire rings are. 2 things I'd want to know more about re the copper idea - What is going to go on with aluminum & copper with water - as in electrolysis. For copper to be a good gasket, it has to be a soft, not hardened. I would expect the block and head would also have to be very flat and accurately machined.

The starter has no fancy controls. IF you turn the key, it should crank. It will crank until the battery is discharged or the starter burns out. Once you have the coolant system filled, moderately blown head gaskets will cause bubbles almost immediately. If they are at the very early stage, you have to wait until everything is stabilized, and several closely monitored drives.

One of the sure ways to kill a lead acid battery is to allow it to sit in a less than fully charged state. The lower the charge, the more damage. If you plan on not using a car for more than a week or so, disconnect the battery. I've heard about a lot of people having poor luck with rebuilt alternators on here. I rebuild my own, typically have not had unusual problems. My original oem alternators all went about 150k miles before needing a brush. At wich time I replaced the bearings also. Over time since 1988 I've had a couple rectifier and regulator failures.

At this point, start it see if it will run. Most common way headgaskets fail on these causes combustion gasses to escape into the cooling system. Look for bubbles in the radiator / recovery tank. If it runs, monitor coolant closely. See how it goes, recheck compression. Monitor coolant system closely.

I doubt that the valve adjusters have enough range to get the compression to zero. Pull the cover, see if the valves are stuck.

You could also try the flange the other way around, so it presses against the inner race. I've always had extra spacers [the ones from in between the inner races] from retired cars to use, so I can put the seals in before pulling the axle through.

Just a point of information - 10 minutes is no where near long enough to charge a battery. Typical battery is about 100AH. Could be more or less, depending on what size it is. From zero charge, with a brand new battery [12.0V resting] that means 20 amps for 5 hours minimum, not counting efficiency losses. In a stock loyale, The engine must be revved above idle to get enough to run the engine, let alone make additional 20 or more amps to other things, like charging the battery and running lights, etc. Check the connections. Other note - I have seen a brand new battery develop an open circuit / high resistance connection internally that could run lights, but not allow enough to turn the starter. Not common, but it can happen.

The axle should not be that tight. It should not be loose either, but pounding with bearings involved is not good. I have always just used the axle nut with washers and spacers to pull the axle back through the bearings.

Mizpah is a place that reconditions them.

Hla is hydraulic lash adjuster

The intake gaskets and the oring. Dealer oem.

I am looking at possibly getting an Impreza around 2008 or so year. It would be an automatic. Don't need stuff like turbo, or alloy wheels. But I do want to know what engine / transmission variants to prefer and or avoid. What year range around 08 are they essentially the same?

Regular ethylene glycol is fine. The most important thing to monitor is the condition of the radiator and all of the cooling system hoses. Not just the upper and lower radiator hose, and the heater hoses, but ALL of them. How many other there are depends on the engine model.

Rotate the crank so Piston #1 is at top dead center. Use the center of the 3 ||| lines on the flywheel and the v on the bell housing for the precise position. Do not use the 0 degree TDC / timing marks. Rotate the cam shaft that drives the distributor so the small timing mark hole is aligned with the notch on the plastic back cover. Install that belt, set the tensioner. Torque is applied to the cam pulley during this. Check the FSM for ft-lbs. Verify the timing marks are lined up. Next is the step MANY people miss the first time they do an EA82 - Rotate the crankshaft 1 full turn by wrenching the bolt that holds the V belt pulley on the front. Install the second timing belt, using the same crank position mark, and the similar mark on that cam and it's back cover. Set the tensioner, with the FSM torque on the cam, check the alignment. The following is my procedure to insure that the belts are at the proper tension after they walk into the paths they will run in. Turn the crank by hand a few revolutions. Re check / re set the tension on the cams, while each is aligned at the ||| marks. Run for 20-30 seconds. No longer, as there is no coolant, or water pump turning. Recheck again. Reassemble the rest of the items removed to get at the belts. I have been running mine for several years now without the front timing belt covers installed, with no ill effects.

Can't check the video right now. You should not have to touch the distributor if it is as it has always been.

In general, they are similar. I can't say about specifics like dimensions. I went from the 76 and 78 style models to ea82 86 and up through loyales.

Probably not C. I had an accident many years ago, and had the car repaired by a local shop. It was before I really did much car work. It drove a little odd for a long time after, never could figure out why, until one day I decided to replace the struts, just due to age & miles. It was fixed. Turned out the strut on the damaged side was bent ever so slightly. The car was a 76 wagon. The struts and the hubs are pretty similar as far as overall design and how they go together.

I ran a bunch of old fuel for a while a number of years ago. The main problem was if it had water in it. I made a setup to remove the water. I was amazed at how stale of old gas I could run without trouble. The worst stuff I had, I had to mix 50/50 with new.

Spray carb cleaner down the throat for 1 to 2 seconds. Then try cranking. If it fires momentarily, it's bad fuel / no fuel.

I made a tool based on the pictures / sketches in the factory service manual. You are fighting the valve springs. Once you get it in the position with the mark at the top, it will stay. The tool is a piece of metal with 2 bolts poking through so they can get into 2 of the bigger 4 holes around the edge of the pulley.

Oh, interesting. I've run ea82 turbo 2 row radiators - except they are no longer available anywhere. My existing ones are getting too old. Have to look at the 2 options mentioned above.

Once you have the crank shaft bolt off, you can put the pulley and the bolt back on, and use a big wrench to turn the crank for timing alignment. It won't be crazy tight when you have to remove it later so getting it back off is no big deal. When you are done, you have to find a way to hold the flywheel and tighten it properly however.

The 3 idlers don't last much longer than the belts, so it's not good to change belts and not the idlers.

for that price, wow

Mine are a hair above the flanges. The fleet runners measure .500". The napa premium xl belts on my identical car are .475" wide. Same belt sizes. Both belts in both cars ride a little above the top of the flanges. I never thought about it, I guess they really should be a little narrower. I've been running these cars with similar belts since 1988 never had a problem though. The only belt I ever had fail was one that came on a car, don't know what brand it was. They take a little manuvering to get onto the power steering pulley, do those first. The part numbers for the configuration of my cars are 9451HD and 9390HD.