DaveT

I'm not sdure what you mean by "the 2 outer belts" - if you mean the V belts, those are in the way, remove them. Take the alternator off. Flip the AC compressor up out of the way. Makes it a lot easier to see what you are doing. Don't buy cheapo kits / parts, if you intend to keep the car for a long time. If you do the cam seals, which are probably due, it is silly not do replace the o rings that are on the small piece the seals press into. Best source for those is a dealer. I use the FSM procedure for installing the timing belts. This has been written out in a number of other timing belt threads. You have to remove the crank pulley to remove the center cover so that you can remove the timing belts. The sketch above isn't clear - but with the flywheel timing mark as described, one cam will have it's timing mark up and the other will have it's mark down. Do look at the position of them before you take them off. When using the FSM procedure, each belt is installed when it's cam is in the mark up position, and there is no force from the valve springs fighting you, or possibly throwing off the torque reading for the tensioning.

To turn the engine, use a 22mm [iirc] Socket on the bolt on the crank shaft pulley. Turn clockwise.

None of my ea82s had / have air induction.

+1 what Gloyale wrote.

I've seen / had other belts wear out. Just not the fleet runners yet.

Went looking for the intermittent squeak I've been getting on cold [around freezing] starts on my 1987 EA82 GL. The water pump's front bearing seal was in pieces, I could see the cage moving when I turned it. Yikes. But no play in the shaft yet. But I also noticed the Gates Fleetrunner Green Stripe belts. I don't even remember how long ago I bought those. I'm pretty sure I've been running them on my various EA82s for over 10 years. That same pair of belts. They are still in good condition. No cracks or anything.

That squeak is a bearing dying. I had a recent similar experience - When I started the car after work, which means it's around freezing, I heard a metallic squeal from under the hood. It would fade away after 10 or so seconds. Wouldn't do it if warm. Finally had time to look at it today. The water pump front bearing looks like the culprit - the oil seal is destroyed, and I can see the cage. Won't be 100% sure until I take the car to work on a cold day again. But the V belt idler was good, and the timing belt idlers don't look shot. I know those were redone when I put the engine in a couple years ago. Apparently, the water pump I didn't change for some reason.

It is normal for an open egr solenoid coil to not light the cel immediately. The egr is not activated until the engine is up to temperature, so it's condition is not checked.

You unhook the solenoids? Yes, that will cause the cel quicker. The only way I know to read the codes on these old models is the led I described previously. The simplest method is to stop when the cel lights, put in in park, count the blinks.

The cel comes on because the solenoid coil is open, in all of the cases I've seen on my ea82s. The code is read by viewing a red led in the ECU which is under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic trim panel that is under there to see it. You can count the blinks of the red led while the car is on and the CEL is lit. It goes slow blinks then fast blinks to indicate a 2 digit number.

Heater hose may not stand up to the oil well.

You can try both a tube as a stethoscope and a big screw driver as a probe. This requires careful planning of position etc. Hold 1 end of tube (or screwdriver ) to ear, other near (or touch non moving parts). This may help locate the noise. Otherwise, if it's that bad, take them off, you have to to fix it anyway, and it should be obvious which bearings are bad. This includes timing belt idlers, if your engine has them.

I can't, I never had a Legacy. Never took one apart. Probably better to start a new thread.

I apply the Waxoyl by removing the interior plastic . The kit comes with a gun and a tube for reaching into difficult places. I don't use POR 15 unless I know I can get the bad area completely encased / covered. It's great stuff, but if you leave an exposed / compromised area, rust starts there and works its way underneath. Waxoyl is thinner, and continues to creep into places for a long time.

One of the parts of where the rust comes from is the inside of the panels and rockers and layers of sheet metal. You have to get something in there also. My choice is something like Waxoyl or the similar stuff mentioned. It soaks in and stops the rust that is there, and stays waxy for a very long time. I've seen some of the products that harden eventually separate from the paint / metal and become dirt and moisture traps - not good. Oil is effective but messy and needs frequent application. And there is the whole ordeal of getting into those hidden areas over and over. I know it can help due to one car I had long ago that leaked oil on one side. That side stayed in far better condition than the other side.

Not looking for external leaks - Don't just check by looking at the level in the recovery tank. Other possible cause of white smoke is only if it has an automatic transmission. Vacuum modulator. Look for ATF in the vacuum line down on the side where it connects to the modulator.

White smoke should be coolant. Watch the level very closely.

If the left vs right pieces are literally that, the software can mirror them. The colors - a spool of the plastic costs about $25.00 That makes a fair number of parts, depending on the size of the part. But I can't afford to buy a whole slew of colors right out of the gate and only make 2 parts per color, so we have to figure out something... Not trying to make tons of $ either, There are a good selection of colors available, but of course, they are not likely to be exact to factory. I'll invest the time making the models, figuring out the tricks to get them to print reasonably well, etc. I could make test samples from [cheap] plastic I have for you test fit. PLA plastic will deform in temperatures that can occur in a car in hot sunny weather. For the lights - I'm thinking just the lens part? Or the back reflector also? Have to be 2 pieces anyway. Will one fit inside a 7" cube? Or at least sections that could be made as separate parts to be assembled? I found clear tinted plastic that looks good for lights / lenses, so those are possible also. To keep the cost of these low, I figure the buyer can do the finish work, that way you spend as much or as little time as desired for the finish desired. The lights / lenses will be interesting to figure out. When you print a part, it matters a lot which way you plan the position in the printer. The printer starts at the bottom, and prints layer by layer, The nicer finish is on the top, last layer printed. Anything that overhangs air needs consideration to make it come out even half way decent. Probably best to start with smaller things first. I have to see one to be sure, but the trim cups should be do able. I'd also like to see one of the smaller lights first, unless the shipping of all vs one makes it silly. But those will take more time. Those are my thoughts so far.

Does anyone have one of those trim cups? I need one to measure and make a model from. As long as the overall shape is correct, it doesn't need to be perfect. Sane for the lights. What color is the plastic they are made from? I've found clear abs so far. Still searching for red and amber tinted clear. I also have the same problem - I need a sample one to make a model from. Even a cracked one would work, as long as there is enough to know the important surfaces and points, etc.

Those trim cups, probably could make those. So far I hadn't had any crumble, so I didn't know they were a problem.

They do have clear filament for the printer. I'm sure it would not be window glass clear, but it would work for lights. Got to see if I can find tinted clear plastic. The handy thing about having the printer is that i don't have to make a big run of parts. Once I have a model, make parts to order.

I make the files for parts at work. So I can make models of whatever part. No, the parts don't have a finish like injection molded parts. Some of that can be done by hand after printing. I figured maybe the older generation stuff might be more of a problem to find. I'd need a sample to make a good model of a part. Wasn't expecting to make a business of it.

Just an initial idea.... Are there any that anyone needs? I have access to 3D printers. I can print ABS parts.

How bad were the overheating events? I had one that experienced a pretty bad overheat - about a gallon short on coolant. It burned oil like mad after I resealed it. I just ran old oil and cheap oil through it for the rest of it's life. Like a quart per tank of gas. The only reason I stopped running it was one of the heads eventually cracked so the coolant would leak out the exhaust port.

I re read your post... if the original oem one lasted 300k, get another oem one. Probably good for another 300k.