DaveT

Based on ea82s. I've had good luck with the best quality option at napa. Iirc, they were around 50 ish. $30 sounds way to cheap for anything decent.

+1 what Gloyale wrote.

The ones I got at napa a while ago were all normal like the original ones.

My understanding is that there were 2 different ac systems. The more common I came across is with the alternator outside, close to the battery. I've considered the upgrade, but I would have to do the rest correctly, and upgrade the output wire and fusible link.

Yeah, time space and tools, or shortage of same can be troublesome. I can only go by what I've run into / done / etc. For example, I have a vacuum gauge, and know they can be used to determine a number of problems, but I never used it to verify an exhaust problem. For one reason or another, all of my EA82s at some relatively early point, I removed the 4 header bolts, and put anti seize on them, so loosening the 4 bolts for the exhaust test is simple and direct. If yours have never been touched, or haven't been in a long time, you'll want the time space and tools to deal with it. For timing, with a light, IIRC, you need to connect the single pin green test connectors. 20 BTDC Good luck, let us know what you find.

The o2 sensor is 22mm. You need a special o2 socket to remove it without cutting the wire, or an open end / box end wrench. Unless it's been recently replaced or serviced, it is likely very stuck, the special socket.might not be able to turn it. The o2 sensor is only used to fine tune the mix, once the engine is at normal operating temperature, it won't be the cause of the trouble. The hole is too small to make much difference if the exhaust is partially blocked. The time I had a blocked catalytic it wouldn't get anywhere near 3000rpm, and struggled to move the car.

Way too much in one post. If the current axel/s is not making noise. You are likely better of cleaning and re greasing and installing new boots. The bearing carriers on the side of the transmission are not set by torque, they are set by an involved process detailed in a factory service manual. Not a good idea to mess with until you've seen more information, and can decide if you want to take that on. I've seen seals with the od metal. Not on Subaru wheels however. NAPA has the fully rubber coated type for both inner and outer. Oil pump o rings and micky mouse o ring and shaft seal are usually the cause of valve ticking, of its not from crud / cheap oil / neglect, etc. The o rings in the cam tower to head seam are one of the typical leak points for oil. Only use oem steel renforced ones. I do my own alignment. Fsm has the info. Won't effect pulling to one side, that's usually a dragging brake or something else. Alignment is only toe in, and effects tire wear and handling. .

There is a vacuum port on the passenger side of the intake. It connects to the EGR solenoid, HVAC canister, etc. My test for exhaust blockage is to loosen the 4 nuts on the header pipes, and leave a gap of about 1/2" It will be loud, but if it runs right, there's your answer. If it runs the same, it's not the exhaust. Depending on age, you may end up needing new studs and gaskets though. Those studs and nuts should be kept from seizing with compound made for the purpose. If they have never been removed, they might be stuck / end up stripping.

Low level of gear lube in the diff won't bog it down. It will eventually ruin the gears and pinion shaft bearings.

how far away from Connecticut are you? I wouldn't mind having a 3AT. The cars look pretty decent, rust wise, but I have no place to store one long term, and the 2 I run now are in very low rust condition.

Those o rings, you remove the timing belts, the valve covers, the cam towers. they are in between the heads and the cam towers.

Yep, those o rings could contribute. By now, if they are original, they aren't very good. Need to use the metal re enforced kind, not plain o rings. Oil pressure at idle with a warm engine is near zero. Really around 5 psi, but the dash gauge doesn't read low numbers accurately. I run Amsoil 10w synthetic. With their filters. Not sure if this had much to do with it, but I don't have much trouble with the ticking. I've resealed a few ea82s, and it takes a while before the tick stays away. But a year, hmmm. Should be pretty much gone by now.

There is at least 1 regular o ring involved with rebuilding the oil pump, in addition to the shaft seal, and the micky mouse one.

When the code is a tive, you don't need to connect anything. If it's intermittent, the memory connection will show those. Check the CTS. With an ohm meter, and the table in the fsm. It is the 2 wire sensor on the lower thermostat housing.

kero is slow, safe solvent. Gaskets, I usually just use one of those single edge razor blade scrapers.

Not sure what part you are referring to. The one on the driveshaft? When does the sound happen? Does it relate to engine RPM or ground speed?

While testing / troubleshooting, 12V is ok. Once you get it running, try putting it back to stock. The stock control has the safety controls to shut it down if there is an accident, etc. Hook up the timing light as per it's instructions. Usually, there is a jumper and or a vacuum line to connect / disconnect - this varies by the exact engine and fuel system it has, best to check a service manual that covers what you have. If you replaced the belts, it should be timed very close to where it was before they were replaced. I stopped bothering to worry about it, it's that close. As long as you didn't pull the distributor, and got the marks positioned correctly, it should just fire right back up.

I checked the schematic in my 86 FSM for the SPFI version. The S terminal is wired like a regulator remote sense line. This is done to control the voltage pushed to the battery [thus the current for charging] more accurately. Remote sense for voltage regulators is used when the designer wants to have more accurate regulation at the point where the sense wire is connected. Without it, the voltage the battery would see would vary a lot more depending on what accessories were switched on. It would take a much heavier wire run directly from the alternator to the battery + terminal, and a separate fuseable link to get the same regulation accuracy.

Get the cooling system leaks fixed before you run it for any length of time, or you will be needing head gaskets also. Yes, double check the timing belts, especially the 1 rotation between installing the first and second belt.

It's good to have easy fixes once in a while.

Check the cts.

I've seen those. Even got parts off one. All years ago.

A thin / not open crack between the valves is very common. There was a tsb about them years ago. Many of mine have them, no problem. As you separate the head from the block, coolant falls out if the passages, some typically falls into the cylinders.

remove the outer black plastic cover on the distributor side. see if the belt is broken. There are lots of threads on here, and videos on youtube of how to replace them.

Timing belts