DaveT

The temperature lever / slider mechanically moves a blend door that directs the air through the heater core or around it.

yes

Was it overheated? Why are the head bolts in the head? I've had one head crack in the exhaust port. It was on an engine that got run low on coolant and was the worst overheat I ever had. It didn't crack for a few years after the incident. May or may not be related. Top center head bolts will get rusted by a coolant leak from the intake manifold, via it's bolts. the holes intersect. The others, it was probably leaking via the head gasket into the bolt holes.

The timing mark on the cam pulleys is the small hole near the edge. When they are properly installed, and the flywheel is on the center of the 3 ||| marks, one should be up at 12:00 in line with the notch in the plastic back cover. The other will be 180 degrees out, at 6:00. This is normal. Rotate the crank 1 full turn, and they should be swapped - the one that was on the mark will be at 6:00 and the other will now be on it's mark at 12:00. The pulleys are the same.

The small connection on the starter is the solenoid coil. The ignition switch applies 12v to it when the key is in the start position. Otherwise, it is open cicuit. If it's cranking reliably, you don't need the relay mod yet.

Web page link: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html

WTF? No need to be snotty. The details went past my experience. General stuff is general. I have no specific info regarding 1982 models, so I am done with this thread.

After you set it, try to turn the alternator fan by hand. If it slips, it's too loose. You want it just tight enough that you can't slip it. If the engine isn't on a compression stroke, the crank might turn a little.

I just sent myself am email to remind me of this thread tonight. I can post the link and a pic, etc. From home. The Toyota solenoids are from the same years as the Subarus. They look different, that's why my Web page explains all that. The CEL will go out on its own after a drive or 2. The FSM has the entire clear codes procedure. I would have to ook it up, it's weird.

Edited to remove possibly incorrect info. I never had a 1982 or close model, so I can't get more specific about this situation.

If the primary winding of the coil has shorted, it would overload the module, explaining why the module failed also.

This was the post I was trying to remember last night. I can look at one of mine and figure out what connects where. I have a Web page with my solution to the dead solenoid problem. I replaced them with Toyota solenoids. I'm still running the same solenoids that I got used from a scrapyard in the late 80s.

That is the engine control unit. The list of codes has been posted in many threads. Count the slow blinks, and the fast blinks as a 2 digit number. Post them, and we can look them up. Slow is 10s place. Fast is 1s place.

Seems like a FSM schematic would be helpful at this point. Unfortunately, I only have EA82s.

Some of the common automotive general purpose relays have standard numbers on the terminals.

If you have time and space, save the mixed oil in a closed container. The oil and water will eventually seperate, and you can skim the oil off the top.

Only fusible links are in the black box near the battery.

Iirc, the egr solenoid is back and higher than the purge solenoid.

Yes, governor and that vacuum modulator. That's it, except for internal failure. Modulator should be number 1 thing to check. If it's original, it should have failed by now.

There is no electronic control of this transmission. It's all controlled by hydraulics.

12v while running indicates no or low output from the alternator. The battery is supplying power.

The small connector is the coil for the solenoid. Apply 12V to that, and the solenoid should engage and run the starter motor. The current draw through that connector is somewhere between 10-20 Amps. A fully charged, good condition battery at rest - no current in or out for at least a day - is 12.6V 12.4V would be a little low, but still good enough to crank. 12.0 is fully discharged. 11.2V with the starter running, is not unusual.

You need 4 all season tires with similar mileage = decent tread on them. They don't have to be as exact as for AWD, but if you end up with 2 pairs that are very different OD, the handling can be weird in 4WD. That bushing probably had nothing to do with being all over the road. Probably have to find a used one, look for a mod shop that has something close / modifiable to fit. If the alternator is original, it will need a new brush soon.

A small coolant leak can happen pretty much anywhere. Sweet smell that goes away after a while caused by the little build up evaporates. Leak doesn't happen until the cooling cycle. The leak could be into the intake via failing gasket, onto the block, crack in a head into the exhaust port.

Yes, charging current goes through one of the fusible links. Otherwise, a rectifier failure could cause a fire from unlimited battery current traveling back into the alternator.