DaveT

If it's a ground wire over near the thermostat, the is a short bolt on the intake manifold casting, over by the thermostat for the ring terminal. The purge solenoid is also right near the thermostat. It's part of the evaporative emmisions control system.

Do not run an alternator without a battery. Somewhere near 14v should be normal when charging.

Yeah, I got that bit crossed up when I wrote it. The 3 marks are key. Forget the tdc bit. The 3 marks put the crank in the correct position, no other condition to check.

Check those main connections. Don't rule out the battery either. I've seen a new one fail internally.

there are several threads with step by step timing belt installation. Roughly - Rotate the crank so Piston #1 is at top dead center. Use the center of the 3 ||| lines on the flywheel and the v on the bell housing for the precise position. Do not use the 0 degree TDC / timing marks. Rotate the cam shaft that drive the distributor so the small timing mark hole is aligned with the notch on the plastic back cover. Install that belt, set the tensioner. Torque is applied to the cam pulley during this. Verify the marks are lined up. Rotate the crankshaft 1 full turn by wrenching the bolt that holds the V belt pulley on the front. Install the second timing belt, using the same crank position mark, and the similar mark on that cam and it's back cover. Set the tensioner, check the alignment. The following is my procedure to insure that the belts are at the proper tension after they walk into the paths they will run in. Turn the crank by hand a few revolutions. Re check the tension on the cams, while each is aligned at the ||| marks. Run for 20-30 seconds. No longer, as there is no coolant, or water pump turning. Recheck again. Reassemble.

Hopefully someone can help with a Factory Service Manual. There are people on here with similar year & model cars.

It's been quiet.

A key steps - Align 1 belt. Set the idler. Rotate the crank 1 full rotation, back to the center of the 3 marks. Then install the second belt. Set the idler. Doing it this way use the timing marks on the top of the rear timing belt covers. Factory procedure. I use a torque wrench to set the tension as per the FSM. After this, I like to turn the engine by hand several revolutions, to let the belts walk to where they prefer to run. Re check the tension, with the timing mark for the belt being checked at it's timing position. Do 2nd belt. Run for 30 seconds. Lets the belts walk, and check for rubbing. Re check re tension again. Finish assembly.

A real Factory Service Manual is the best. I've had Chilton's, but haven't seen a Hayne's. The Chilton's was handy helping figure out what parts were interchangeable across years, but the FSM kicked it's butt for details. The FSMs I have I bought new from the dealers, when the cars were a couple years old. Now you have to watch ebay and the forum to see when one goes up for sale. Or if you find a link to an online / upload someone did.

I've just cut and bent & drilled them from a sheet of 1/16" thick copper I have. The contacts are in the solenoid. I made mine a bit wider than the one that wore out to give it more contact area. Have not had to do it for quite a while.

You didn't mention turbo. SPFI has 7 coolant hoses. I don't know the turbo well. The spfi has a small one under the thermostat, and another behind the throttle body. Also, there is a short L shaped one from the water pump to the steel line that goes back toward one of the heater hoses. Turbo may have similar, check the fsm.

There is a pot and a switch on the throttle. The switch is for zero throttle / idle. The pot is for the ecu to know how hard you are on the gas.

Pretty much any car left to sit, especially outdoors, for that long is going to need a lot of general maintenance type things and intermittent problems. All 7 coolant hoses are probably long overdue for replacement due to age. Lots of electrical connections that may be corroded and intermittent. Damage from mice would not be a surprise.

Yes, and replace both belts and all 3 idlers.

Especially when the temperature in its surroundings is high.

If the electronic part runs hot, a bigger better heatsink could extend it's life.

there are also a number of things you are going to want to go through and be aware of dealing with one of these nearly 30 year old cars, especially if you intend to rely on it.

If the code is a current problem, CEL is on. you don't have to do the green connectors step. Just read the LED.

Yes, remove belt. Unbolt compressor. Un plug the clutch wire, swing compressor up and back. Yes, running the engine until warmed up helps when removing bolts and plugs, especially if they might be sticky.

If it's never been removed by you, it might be worth unmounting the compressor and swinging it out of the way. The hoses are long enough. Once you know the plug will remove, and use anti seize you can get it out with long extension. Maybe a u joint. Iirc the angle wasn't quite right for just a straight extension. A 3/8 drive worked a little better.

In my mind, seals are things for shafts, like wheel bearing seals, hydraulic piston seals. Gaskets are flat cut from paper, composite, rubber, etc. O rings are round o shaped things.

There's blown, and there's failing. The ones that are just starting to leak through the fire ring are almost impossible to see, but after replacement, bubbles in the radiator stop, and coolant stops dissappearing.

Oh, e81s I am not very familiar with. Yes, maybe it just needs lube?

Finnigan's Waxoyl helps. Staying ahead of it helps - as in do not wait until you see bubbles in the paint. I modified the tail ends of the front fenders and mudflaps -they are dirt and crap catchers as if they were designed to rot them out.

What about them are you trying to change? I never had trouble with any of mine. I still have the original stainless steel blade holders, that most people replaced with the universal things years ago. None of those that I ever had worked as well as the original ones, but that has nothing to do with the motor.