DaveT

I've used helicoils on a number of exhaust stud repairs, idler bolt holes. Even a head bolt. I have yet to had one fail.

+1 What GD wrote.

You're welcome

Sapper wrote: "How about running it off the battery? The kit came with two jumper cable type jaws for running it off a battery, shouldn’t be a problem to just run it off my battery right?" Yes, that would not cause a problem.

The risk is that if the lighter socket and wire to it are not really up to 15Amps, they may overheat. Especially since the run time is likely much longer than the original purpose. Worst case of the risk is starting a fire under the dash. You may even get away with it for a number of times, before a connection gets overheated and corrodes enough to completely fail. If the socket isn't rated for longer runs at the current required by the compressor, find a better way to power it. Theoretically, the fuse rating is chosen to protect the wiring and the devices attached enough to prevent a hidden fire. But run time can be a factor with things like lighters.

Yes, have to remove the dash. Unbolt the steering column.

the original printed ones are 6 book sets. I don't know of links or .pdfs but others may.

It's well past the time and miles for a reseal. Coolant can dissappear without a trace a few ways. Small leak on block or radiator that evaporates fast enough to not leave noticable wetness. Intake manifold gaskets or throttle body seal. Headgaskets beginning to fail. Cracked head is less common but can happen also. Running these with anything more than a very small amount of air in the cooling system is bad for the headgaskets. Do not use the temperature gauge as a coolant level checker. It's too late then.

Good. You'll need 2 belts, and all 3 idlers. Don't get the cheapest ones, get good ones. No worries of engine damage. Once you have it running again, be very watchful of coolant level while reconditioning and checking everything else.

1st thing to check is timing belt, like GD wrote.

On the ones I've done, there hasn't been build up, except for stuck gasket stuff, just discoloration. Sanding with a backer makes the surfaces flat which is important. Pitting would be bad also. The sanding marks should show evenly when the surfaces are flat. I check coolant levels before the first drive each day, and those Fel pro intake gaskets still costed me another head gasket job.

Did you get the liquid wrench on the other end of the shaft also?

GD, when I read that, I thought it sounded off the wall. Couldn't put my finger on it though..... I use an aluminum device to contain melted solder, which is mostly lead, and it operates at 600 to 700 degrees F. Lead does not interact with aluminum even at those temperatures. No way it's going to do anything at the 190 that an ea82 runs at.

I've had more than one of the fel pro ones fail, in far too short of time, sometimes leading to having to replace head gaskets due to overheating.

Use 150 or so grit sandpaper with something flat to back it. Use only oem intake gaskets. No sealant especially rtv. Rtv is dissolved by contact with fuel vapors. Been there done that. Years ago.

That much aluminum on the threads, probably stripped, not enough to nothing left to hold. I have used heli coils several times, no problem for this.

The CTS should be very near the thermostat, 2 wire sensor. The wiggling wires fixing it could indicate a broken wire. I had one break in the engine harness. Found it by unwrapping the harness, and inspecting the wires. One had a break inside the insulation.

That looks like the one. 2 wires is the key. There was a time where they used a different connector, so there is a chance you may have to adapt / change the connector.

It's worth testing the CTS.

Go to McMastercarr.com and mscdirect.com Search thread repair. Once you have a few names, you can also try ebay and amazon.

It just pulls out from the front. Thin screwdriver blade at the sides between the dash and the back of the bezel.

Very common failure. There are threads on here about fixing them. One includes mods I did to make them better.

When you replace the timing belts, replace the 3 idlers. The 5 parts are all near end of life at the same time, 50k miles, sometimes a little less. The idlers can make it past 50k, but they won't make it to 100k.

Oh, look for Loyale. 90 through 93 I know are the same. In GLs, in 86 carb, the final drive ratio was different. I also had an 88 SPFI and that was the same as the loyales. These are older cars with parts becoming harder to find, and more are no longer available. I run 2 of them so I have backup when one goes down, have loads of spares, and do all my own repairs. Makes them very affordable to run. Anything this old is going to have a bunch of things that need attention over a period of time, until all those bits are renewed.

Never had one do that. Not that it can't. Check the CTS , those can mess with idle, and not cause a code while doing it.