DaveT

These days, you probably need to find an old shop, restoration shop, etc. to get those kind of windshields installed by someone who knows that system. All the modern cars, just use glue in. Most may have never seen that kind of gasket. I did one on a 78 wagon a long time ago. My Dynahoe uses something similar. I installed most of the glass in the cab.

Put the crush washer in. 200ftlbs sounds high. Without double checking the fsm, 150 is closer to normal,and there is no.problem turning the nut a bit more to get the cotter pin in. Notice that there are 2 holes, 90 degrees apart on the axle. The nut has 6 flats. Only a small fraction of a turn needed to get one or the other of the 2 axle holes to line up with the notches.

+1 czny

Sounds like you are talking about the cage. It's the stamped part that keeps the balls spaced evenly. Normally don't wear, but if there was no lube, it won't last long. I have not dissasembled one of those pumps, so I don't know if the bearings are lubed buy the ps fluid, or are sealed ones like on the water pump.

cnc wrote: Couldn't detect the wobbly bearings by hand. Need a crow bar to try to wiggle it with belt tension present. Best to check for failing bearings after removing the belts.

Only use 4WD on wet, snow, or off road. On wet, I'll switch it on for getting moving from a stop, then switch it off. The others, I leave it on. Dry is always 2WD only.

Here is a drawing of the rear wheel bearing removal socket: Subaru Rear Axle Socket.PDF

Don't worry about what you haven't learned yet, how else do you learn, but by asking? Carburetor cleaner is combustible. If for example, your car isn't getting fuel, you can verify the rest of the engine is working by spraying it in the intake, and trying to start it. It will run for a few seconds from a 1 to 2 second spray into the intake, if everything else is ok. I've used it as a kinder starting aid for Diesel engines. Starting ether is extremely volatile. Carburetor cleaner seems to be somewhere in between gasoline, and ether. To test for vacuum leaks, get the car running, at idle, warmed up. Spray various places - hose connections, mating parts where a gasket might be leaking, etc. IF there is a leak, the extra fuel will usually raise the RPM or smooth roughness. With a good sealed working system, the spray should have no effect.

I'm pretty sure the cone washer was the same from at least 76 to 93, on old school models. but it's been a long time since I had a 76 / 78 to double check on. Never had a brat, but it would surprise me if they were different. Legacy and up, I don't know.

They must have changed the cams mid 86? The 86 I used, I measured the cams, they were the same as the 90 something engine I swapped it with.

That would do it. The used parts should be fine. I've found getting the cone washer off trick - use a piece of bar stock, about 1/4 by 3/8 - something about that size - as a punch, and a medium size hammer. Flat end of punch against the flat face of the cone washer, and a few stiff raps should pop it loose, without damaging it.

The spfi will adjust for the change. You might still have emmisions trouble, but if you don't have that, no problem. The EGR is supposed to reduce the temperature in the combustion chamber, might reduce pinging in some circumstances. Lowers NO2 emmisions. It should run fine blocked, if you have noticeable trouble, it could always be added back on later.

Carburetor cleaner. How can a parts shop not know what that is?

The relay should be energised by a wire from the ECU. Connect a voltmeter or small test light to the coil of the relay, and sre if it gets power while cranking. Next step, move to the pin on the ECU.

If it's a carburetor, it will have an odd shaped metal air cleaner case on top of the carb.. If it's SPFI, the rubber boot on top of the throttle body should have SPFI embossed in the rubber, and the air cleaner is a box on the fender, side opposite the battery. MPFI I haven't seen, they were not common. Turbo, well, there is a turbo somewhere near the engine. Alternate - take a picture of what's under the hood, and post it.

Also, with some cases of dirty connections, or loose contacts, ohms can falsely indicate that a wire is ok. To be 100% sure, you have to use other information, and draw current appropriate to the circuit that the wire is in would normally see. I've seen situations where ohms would indicate the wire is ok, but try to pull a few amps through it, and it's open, or high enough resistance to interfere with the load operating.

Yes, they are all EA82. Carb, SPFI, MPFI, or Turbo - all different fuel systems and controls.

I think, but am not sure, that 87 and newer are SPFI vs carburetor. It makes a big difference in what the relay is controlled by.

Year and engine type?

The socket one? I think I can make up a drawing later tonight.

I have one of the official sockets for them. It will work if the nut isn't stuck. For the tight ones, I modified a tool for my air powered impact hammer. Ground the end so it could hit the notch and not deform it. Buzzed it enough to get it to turn, then the socket did the rest. I used by HD Dremel tool to cut the staked edge out, otherwise forget turning it.

Didn't intend to sound negative. Thank you for the thought, I don't know Rob. I'm hoping to find time to trace out one of the correct ecu this winter. I really killed my momentum when I realized I had started with an oddball one that I picked off the spare parts pile. The ones I'm running (and that seem to be common ) are significantly different.

I'm pretty sure flash memory did not exist back then. More likely any ROM is either one time programmable or UV erasable.

There was a TSB years ago about small cracks between the valves. They are not a problem. Nearly every head I've had off an ea82 has them. I've not had any problem caused by those small cracks. I've read about people trying to fix them, they come back. The coolant pushing out of the radiator and overheating is typical of failed headgaskets. It is not always visible. It only takes a very tiNY pinhole of a leak to let gasses at hundreds of psi to leak into the cooling system.

I never had one go bad until a couple years ago. But they are all around 30 yrs old now, so not a surprise. I got a new one at a dealer. I figure even at $90.00 it's cheap considering it should last 30 years....