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Everything posted by DaveT
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Using Carb longblock in SPFI Car (ea82)
DaveT replied to Logan K's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
oh, yes, turbo would be different for sure. -
Using Carb longblock in SPFI Car (ea82)
DaveT replied to Logan K's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
djellum wrote: your lowering the compression going to the carb motor, There must be some variations on this. The one I swapped - the bore and stroke are the same. The cams are the same. Lifters the same. The heads and valves are the same as far as the combustion chamber. Only difference was maybe the EGR port. Pistons the same, as far as can bee seen from the top at least, The swapped one had no noticeable difference in power under any driving situation I experienced. -
The CTS [coolant temperature sensor] is the 2 wire sensor on the lower part of the thermostat housing. The ECU uses it to monitor the engine temperature, and adjust the fuel mix for temperature. It dopes the job of a choke on old carburetor engines. The thermoswitch on the radiator only turns the fan on and off. The 1 wire temperature sensor on the thermostat housing only operates the temperature gauge on the dash.
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Using Carb longblock in SPFI Car (ea82)
DaveT replied to Logan K's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I did this once, long ago. Iirc, the egr pipe is slightly different. Just look over all those smaller bits closely. The spfi intake should otherwise go right on the older block. Have to change the distributor also. Inside the block, heads, etc. All the same parts, so no problems there. -
Idle air control valve and or the coolant temperature sensor. Wouldn't hurt to check both.
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Loyale wagon Rear Axle Kapoof!
DaveT replied to mickytrus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
yikes! -
Breaker bar with a pipe to lenthen the handle. Good to be sure that you are balanced so that if it suddenly let's go that you don't fall or slam your hand into something. I weigh more than I can lift, at least in any position i could be half under a car, so pushing down works better for me. Sometimes I've found a way to use a leg to aid the pushing when the angles of my arm are lousy for mechanical advantage. But when I'm serios, I fire up the compressor and use the impact wrench.
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There should be a cone shaped washer with a split, and a spring washer - not flat - look closely - under the nut..
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Leaking valves. What should I do?
DaveT replied to somick's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I'll go with the heads are off the block. If they leak, at the very least, they'll need lapping. Got to remove one to see if it's leaking due to crud / carbon, rust, wear or burned. -
I use a big gear puller to push the axle out. Then a piece of bar stock I cut to make an offset to push out 1 bearing. Then a big bolt for the second bearing. Both pushed with the gear puller. It's a 2 arm puller, and it's a little funky , but there is a way to get it to grip. To reassemble, I have a big bolt and nut and washers and spacers.
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The selector doors are vacuum. The temperature slider moves a mechanical door. In a stock one, the only time the recirculation vs outside intake air door is in recirculate mode is high ac.
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Nuts, I missread, forget the 82 line above. Can't edit from mobile
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82 don't use vacuum for the controls. It would be good to verify that the engine is running at normal temperature, that is, check the thermostat.
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formula to estimate hp increase with boost inctease?
DaveT replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
There should be some old threads about tweaking the turbos on the forum. The big problem is the stock turbo system regularly cracked heads, had barely adequate cooling. Any power increase will trade away reliability further. -
Loyale wagon Rear Axle Kapoof!
DaveT replied to mickytrus's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
When I did rear bearings, not long ago, I found the drive shaft would not come off without removing or mostly removing the 2 arm mounting bolts and the shock. Maybe loosening them and disconnecting the shock would work. -
89 Loyale GL Cheap fuel Pump
DaveT replied to Bigcountry's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Might be worth checking the injector too. Maybe stuck open. Fuel pressure should be around 20PSI. Significantly more or less could cause trouble also. -
89 Loyale GL Cheap fuel Pump
DaveT replied to Bigcountry's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Would not hurt to verify timing, belts on correct, etc. Did it run after he worked on it? -
89 Loyale GL Cheap fuel Pump
DaveT replied to Bigcountry's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Are the exhaust gaskets and header y pipe sealed up? If you cranked that long, gas would be getting through by then, building up since it didn't fire. Then for some reason it did... -
89 Loyale GL Cheap fuel Pump
DaveT replied to Bigcountry's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
If the body is rust free, and you plan on running it, you got an almost free car for the price of a fuel pump. A 30 year old car is going to need some parts now and then. Still cheaper than payments and taxes and collision on a new one. -
Thank you, glad to hear you got it working!
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Loyale Power Steering pump froze up, then works, again. ?
DaveT replied to cnc's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
The pump could have been stuck due to mechanically jammed somehow, or if some way the fluid output was stopped solid, and the relief was stuck closed. Still pretty odd. -
Bad battery wouldn't start the engine. The voltmeter on the dash may or may not be reading accurately, it's in a bunch of the car electric system, and something isn't right, so it is not good to rely on it. It's going to be difficult to troubleshoot electric systems without a DVM / meter. The Black / White wire goes through a fusible link to the battery, so should be at battery voltage at all times. The White / Red goes through a 15A fuse in the fuse block to the warning lights. Sounds like from your previous post, the B/W is ok. The W/R has a problem. Try to locate a copy of the schematic from a factory Service manual. There may be a link on the forum or the internet somewhere. I can eventually try to get a scan.
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How are the 2 small wires on the back of the alternator?
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The metal terminals can be removed from the plastic. If they are not corroded, the crimps can be unfolded. It's not easy, and you have to be careful. Some will un bend, some may break. Re bend them onto new wire, then solder, as they will not hold by crimping alone a second time. If the tabs do break off, small copper tubing pieces can be used to make new Ferrells.
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EA82 valve stem seal differences?
DaveT replied to jono's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
I always just matched them up. I'd guess they might be slightly different due to intakes having vacuum, and exhaust is pressure.