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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    oh, yes, turbo would be different for sure.
  2. DaveT
    djellum wrote: your lowering the compression going to the carb motor, There must be some variations on this. The one I swapped - the bore and stroke are the same. The cams are the same. Lifters the same. The heads and valves are the same as far as the combustion chamber. Only difference was maybe the EGR port. Pistons the same, as far as can bee seen from the top at least, The swapped one had no noticeable difference in power under any driving situation I experienced.
  3. DaveT
    The CTS [coolant temperature sensor] is the 2 wire sensor on the lower part of the thermostat housing. The ECU uses it to monitor the engine temperature, and adjust the fuel mix for temperature. It dopes the job of a choke on old carburetor engines. The thermoswitch on the radiator only turns the fan on and off. The 1 wire temperature sensor on the thermostat housing only operates the temperature gauge on the dash.
  4. DaveT
    I did this once, long ago. Iirc, the egr pipe is slightly different. Just look over all those smaller bits closely. The spfi intake should otherwise go right on the older block. Have to change the distributor also. Inside the block, heads, etc. All the same parts, so no problems there.
  5. DaveT
    Idle air control valve and or the coolant temperature sensor. Wouldn't hurt to check both.
  6. DaveT
    yikes!
  7. DaveT
    Breaker bar with a pipe to lenthen the handle. Good to be sure that you are balanced so that if it suddenly let's go that you don't fall or slam your hand into something. I weigh more than I can lift, at least in any position i could be half under a car, so pushing down works better for me. Sometimes I've found a way to use a leg to aid the pushing when the angles of my arm are lousy for mechanical advantage. But when I'm serios, I fire up the compressor and use the impact wrench.
  8. DaveT
    There should be a cone shaped washer with a split, and a spring washer - not flat - look closely - under the nut..
  9. DaveT
    I'll go with the heads are off the block. If they leak, at the very least, they'll need lapping. Got to remove one to see if it's leaking due to crud / carbon, rust, wear or burned.
  10. DaveT
    I use a big gear puller to push the axle out. Then a piece of bar stock I cut to make an offset to push out 1 bearing. Then a big bolt for the second bearing. Both pushed with the gear puller. It's a 2 arm puller, and it's a little funky , but there is a way to get it to grip. To reassemble, I have a big bolt and nut and washers and spacers.
  11. DaveT
    The selector doors are vacuum. The temperature slider moves a mechanical door. In a stock one, the only time the recirculation vs outside intake air door is in recirculate mode is high ac.
  12. DaveT
    Nuts, I missread, forget the 82 line above. Can't edit from mobile
  13. DaveT
    82 don't use vacuum for the controls. It would be good to verify that the engine is running at normal temperature, that is, check the thermostat.
  14. DaveT
    There should be some old threads about tweaking the turbos on the forum. The big problem is the stock turbo system regularly cracked heads, had barely adequate cooling. Any power increase will trade away reliability further.
  15. DaveT
    When I did rear bearings, not long ago, I found the drive shaft would not come off without removing or mostly removing the 2 arm mounting bolts and the shock. Maybe loosening them and disconnecting the shock would work.
  16. DaveT
    Might be worth checking the injector too. Maybe stuck open. Fuel pressure should be around 20PSI. Significantly more or less could cause trouble also.
  17. DaveT
    Would not hurt to verify timing, belts on correct, etc. Did it run after he worked on it?
  18. DaveT
    Are the exhaust gaskets and header y pipe sealed up? If you cranked that long, gas would be getting through by then, building up since it didn't fire. Then for some reason it did...
  19. DaveT
    If the body is rust free, and you plan on running it, you got an almost free car for the price of a fuel pump. A 30 year old car is going to need some parts now and then. Still cheaper than payments and taxes and collision on a new one.
  20. DaveT
    Thank you, glad to hear you got it working!
  21. DaveT
    The pump could have been stuck due to mechanically jammed somehow, or if some way the fluid output was stopped solid, and the relief was stuck closed. Still pretty odd.
  22. DaveT
    Bad battery wouldn't start the engine. The voltmeter on the dash may or may not be reading accurately, it's in a bunch of the car electric system, and something isn't right, so it is not good to rely on it. It's going to be difficult to troubleshoot electric systems without a DVM / meter. The Black / White wire goes through a fusible link to the battery, so should be at battery voltage at all times. The White / Red goes through a 15A fuse in the fuse block to the warning lights. Sounds like from your previous post, the B/W is ok. The W/R has a problem. Try to locate a copy of the schematic from a factory Service manual. There may be a link on the forum or the internet somewhere. I can eventually try to get a scan.
  23. DaveT
    How are the 2 small wires on the back of the alternator?
  24. DaveT
    The metal terminals can be removed from the plastic. If they are not corroded, the crimps can be unfolded. It's not easy, and you have to be careful. Some will un bend, some may break. Re bend them onto new wire, then solder, as they will not hold by crimping alone a second time. If the tabs do break off, small copper tubing pieces can be used to make new Ferrells.
  25. DaveT
    I always just matched them up. I'd guess they might be slightly different due to intakes having vacuum, and exhaust is pressure.
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