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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    I just turn the key and drive.
  2. DaveT
    Water in the oil is not common. I only saw it once and that was due to the worst overheat while low on coolant that I ever had. Very blown headgaskets. But it still ran great. If you continue to run it with the unknown leak, check the coolant very frequently. Like before every start. You do not want to have air in the system to the point where it goes over normal temperature. I've seen a slow leak turn into a headgasket blowing overheat in one 20 minute drive.
  3. DaveT
    I have fixed it 2 ways. Reseal the oil pump. Or full engine reseal, which includes the pump. I also run Amsoil synthetic, but can't say if that has any effect. Everything is just cleaner than other engines I've gotten used, that were running most likely nothing special.
  4. DaveT
    Hi, welcome to the forum! It would be better to start a new thread. EA81 and EA82 have very different electric and intake systems.
  5. DaveT
    Lifter tick? Or something deeper? Bad idler bearing?
  6. DaveT
    Most parts are the same. The transmission stubs are different on some transmissions, that someone has to look up in a service manual. I have interchanged parts from 86 to 93 - but all are 3AT transmissions.
  7. DaveT
    Who does the repairs makes a big difference in the economics of running one of these older models. Correct, turbos add problems, including additional NLA parts.. Turbo EA82s seem to have more problems with cracked heads and cooling system troubles. I'm also thinking that it's pretty likely that the engine will need a reseal if it hasn't had one. I haven't worked on any of these with a standard shift transmission, so I am unfamiliar with diagnosing them.
  8. DaveT
    Make sure it isn't being pushed out the overflow tank, which indicates blown headgaskets
  9. DaveT
    A lot can get sucked down the intake without smoke. A fair amount can leak on top of the block, and dissappear. Look for evidence. The right kind of pinhole in the radiator and a cap that doesn't hold pressure is another sneaky one.
  10. DaveT
    That's is weird. I am at the same address I've been for over ten years. Maybe a typo in the address?
  11. DaveT
    Do not block the coolant flow.through the core. Stop leak is a temporary fix at best, not a good idea. The cooling system must be in very good condition to avoid problems with these engines. Any leaks should be fixed asap.
  12. DaveT
    Resealed engine is good - if it was done correctly. Miles don't matter much to me, I've taken a few of these past 200K, and only lost them due to rust. I've seen others with much higher miles. But people who don't know Subarus don't always know that the low miles isn't what to decide on.
  13. DaveT
    It depends on where you are. Rust free ones are not seen around here, unless you see one of mine. Rusty ones are not even around here. CT. I paid over 3k for one a few years ago, and had it shipped from California. It ended up needing headgaskets, which I did myself. It is getting to be a specialty repair to maintain them, as they approach 30 years old, and parts are going no longer available.
  14. DaveT
    Bad CVJ can cause the steering wheel to shake when bad enough. Usually, they start with clicking during turns, varies with load, how sharp.
  15. DaveT
    If you can do your own repairs, and it's not your daily driver, and you want a project, ok. EA82 turbos are difficult. Some parts are no longer available. I don't do turbos. I bought a rust free wagon from a guy in CA, had it shipped here, CT. Needed head gaskets, and then I swapped the transmission a year later. None of that bothered me. But I have spare parts. Here rust free is rare.
  16. DaveT
    Is the regulator separate from the alternator in those years / models? I skipped from a 78 to a 86, so I don't know. Anyway, overcharge would be a regulator problem, whether it's internal to the alternator or external. Double check the chassis, engine, and alternator grounds.
  17. DaveT
    IF it is a SPFI, first thing to check is the CTS. The 2 wire sensor on the thermostat housing. They fail in odd ways that do not cause the CEL to light, or even register a code. They do cause all sorts of drive-ability problems, sometimes intermittent, sometimes engine temperature dependent.
  18. DaveT
    Also, those bolts stop when the shoulder huts the head, so don't over tighten them.
  19. DaveT
    Thread repair kit. Solid ones are better, helicoil work just have to be a little more careful.
  20. DaveT
    Belts loose. Also, once they slip, they get worse. Get a new set and make sure the tension is correct. I have also found that once I install the nelts, I run the engine for a few 10s of seconds, shut down, then re set the tension. Mine have 2 belts, and the common pulleys don't always allow the second belt to slide so the tension is uneven after the short run. It would also be good to check that all the accessory shafts turn freely without the belts, in case you have a bearing failing.
  21. DaveT
    Urabus84 wrote: "Is it possible for that light to trigger something to make the fuel system "think" it's out of gas?" No. Nothing that fancy in there anywhere. Fuel filters pump crud in the tank other intermittent electric problem [in the ignition circuitry] Best to start as new thread.
  22. DaveT
    You haven't specified which engine.... EA82s are supposed to be set at 20 degrees BTDC, so the markings are pretty much self explanatory, as there is no 20 degrees ATDC mark. Timing ios set with the green connectors connected. If you have an older engine, pull and plug the vacuum advance line from the distributor. I no longer remember the degrees for the older engines, but I have NEVER seen an engine on anything timed ATDC.
  23. DaveT
    I always redo an engine, them swap it in. Much better access to everything with the engine on a stand. But I have spares and the space. I did them in car once.
  24. DaveT
    Another tip to make it easier.. run it or use heaters to get the entire engine to normal operating temperature, and then carefully loosen all the bolts. Intake are notorious for being stuck and snapping if you try to do it cold. Hot block also helps with head bolts.
  25. DaveT
    What Dee2 wrote. Replace the contacts. Add the relay. Problem gone.
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