Jump to content
Ultimate Subaru Message Board

DaveT

Members
  • Posts

    5087
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    86

Everything posted by DaveT

  1. Revving the engine has nothing to do with it. They are made to spin fast, not lug.
  2. Most likely head gasket. By this age and milage kind of due. Also, any over normal temperature while low on coolant leads to and accelerates the failure.
  3. My 93 had no tach, and only oil light. Swapped in an older gauge set that had both. Had to change the sender to the pressure gauge type, but the same wire was used. Don't remember doing any other wiring additions, and the tach works.
  4. well, flooding would do it. Just haven't seen that or even read of anyone having it happen.
  5. Maybe one was more available, or they decided one worked better or emissions regulations forced a change. Just guessing around.
  6. The failure description sounds exactly like timing belt failure. Double check the 3 marks, and that the cam pulls turn with the crank. 2nd choice, since you have fuel, investigate spark.
  7. A lot of failures don't show up for years. They can be hard to predict. It's not always them trying to be cheap.
  8. more testing needed. Check the injector, ohms of coil and ohms to gnd. Apply power, it should spray if the fuel pump has been run. Don't do this for long, you are flooding the engine. Check the wiring from the ECU to the injector. Good idea to check with ohm meter, AND also by applying 12V - while disconnected from the ECU. ECU failures are rare. A factory service manual is invaluable. ebay or search online / on the forum for links / uploads.
  9. That sounds like an awful lot of play. Maybe just bearings, I don't know the EA81 well.
  10. There is usually some free play in the levers, but I'd think it should be similar.
  11. Cycling them several times usually gets them to adjust, along with using the regular brakes, like alternate them. Sounds like one of them is either stuck or needs other repair. Screwing the piston in is for when you install new pads. No other adjustment should be needed.
  12. I had one like that. I planned on replacing them with the regular manual belt setup from a GL. Retired the car due to rust before I got to swapping the belts.
  13. Well, yeah, if I had a dead turbo, I'd sooner put the work into an ej swap.
  14. Maybe fab was not the best word, but customizing the harness is no small job for someone who hasn't done it. I was guessing that the shop the car was at wasn't a Subaru nodding specialist, so wouldn't know about the adapter plate availability, what radiator, exhaust mods, etc. I doubt a straight repair only shop would touch an El swap kind of project. That's what I was trying to say.
  15. The IAC is wired directly to the ECU. Iirc, I found the intermittent break with an ohm meter. Found the pins on the ECU that are wired to the IAC using my factory service manual. Disconnect the connector, connect the meter to the harness. It should read something fairly low, wiggle the wiring and the connectors to narrow down where the break is.
  16. Check all the wire run from the valve to the ECU. A bad connection or bad wire can do the same thing. Code 24 is the IAC. Open or shorted. I once had a wire in the harness on the engine break - inside it's insulation. The way I found it was 2 part. I got lucky, and it decided to be flakey when I was testing with a meter. 2nd, was I disassembled the wrapping from the wiring, and found the 2 wires. Noticed a slightly funny spot, and sure enough, when I bent the wire, it was clearly broken inside the insulation.
  17. Sounds like the IAC. Yes, round thing with 2 wires and big hose on front of the throttle body. This car is obd1. Read the code blinked by the LED on the ECU, under the steering column. You have to remove the plastic cover that has th air vent for your feet and legs.
  18. The CTS can cause odd intermittent problems like that. Also, the IAC valve. Read the code, it may give you the answer.
  19. Any of the silicons of know of will burn off exhaust. Leaving a gap that will accelerate corrosion. And yes the acidic ones won't help with that either.
  20. I found the Fel Pro ones to fail also. I got oem ones, they are hard and a little slippery. I think with metal inside. No problems so far.
  21. That heat cycle anneals the metal, making it soft again. Work -getting squished in this case - hardens it.
  22. They are copper. I have always re used them, never had a problem. If they are damaged, I wouldn't re use.
  23. I have noticed that some colors of sharpie marker fade over time.
  24. I ran a mallory marine racing coil and breakerless conversion in my 1976. Can't say anything about making power. But it did start quicker, and I did not miss having to adjust the points every so often.
×
×
  • Create New...