DaveT

SPFI fuel pressure is over 20PSI. Carburetors typically work around 5PSI. Simplest to find an EA82 to swap in. Probably be good to do a reseal on it. The difference between EA81 & 82 would not help with low engine oil, either type would be destroyed. The main reliability difference would be the timing belts and idlers, as in if you want reliable, you have to maintain them. EA81 is gear driven, so no maintenance.

I've seen it on ebay. Depending on $ wouldn't mind having more.

The lights in my wagons have all had a switch on them, just turn them off.

That's what I figured, thus suggesting the EJ.

If you want to keep that car, best bet is find a used engine, but that will likely be tough. Other option, ej 2.2. A lot of work, but so is trying to find parts for the original, and a na 2.2 is more reliable than a turbo ea and more power.

Does the pump run? If you accidentally swap the fuel supply and return lines, it won't run. BTDT.

Oh, yeah, I have drum brakes. Well, at least I could get stainless line. I have a bender and flaring tools.

Ooh! I have to check mine, if they need replacing, that's what I'll do.

The can os supposed to hold for those situations. If there is a vacuum leak, or the check valve in the line to the tank is leaking, the low / loss of vacuum condition will allow the blend doors to move toward their resting positions.

The steel hardlines or the hoses?

Those 2 numbers are standard ball beaeings. A good industrial bearing shop can get them with contact seals. Drill off the staked risers, turn new ones that press into standard bearings, and stake them onto the brackets.

Open the filter. Check the pan. Hard to imaging only the pump failing. Find a used engine might be the best thing, depending on what you find, if you want to keep the car stock.

The cts is the 2 wire sensor that gives the ecu a temperature measurement. It is a thermally sensitive resistor.

Regulators can fail in different ways. No output is one, stuck full on is another.

I ordered a set. I'll update.

Anti seize on everything when reassembling. Always replace the idlers or their bearings, they are done or near done when the belts are due.

I heard about silicon boots in another thread. Here is a link for some I found on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Universal-Silicone-Constant-Velocity-CV-Boot-Joint-Kit-Replacement-BLUE-/230910153051 The questions: Has anyone tried these from this brand / seller? Any other brands that anyone can recommend / has experience with? I'm not looking for cheap, I'd prefer long life / high quality.

Ah, ok . Everything sounds normal for an old ea82, except the return of the engine problem, and the chewing up tires problem.

If the body structure is rusted too bad to fix, find one that isn't. Even if you need to have it shipped. Don't care if it runs, you have all the parts in your existing one. The body is the frame, so I don't see how trying to put it on some other frame would gain much. Usually, the stuff that's rotted away is combined with the visible and the frame. At least that's what has taken my previous ones. Rusty as heck, looks like a beater, then some frame part breaks, time for a new body. I don't want the bigger newer cars either. All the newer ones are huge. MY current 2 EA82 Wagons, I bought due to extremely little rust. Any other problem, I can fix. Now the plan with them getting scarcer, is just to keep ahead of the rust before it gets away.

With the air cleaner off, you should be able to see the choke butterfly valve on the top of the carb. I don't know webers specifically, but every carb I've seen, this is the case. Open it with fingers, then use something [preferably not metallic, and long enough to not fall down into the intake] to make it stuck open. Don't hold it by hand, if it were to backfire, well, flames could get you.

Pretty unlikely it skipped while sitting. Clearing a flood , you will go through a stretch where it stumbles and kind of half tries to run. Prop the choke open, hold - don't pump- the gas at least half way open.

If the plugs are wet with fuel, you may be fighting a real good flood. Keep the choke open. It can take a lot of cranking to get enough air through to clear that. Might be obvious, but since I'm not there, be sure timing belts are intact, etc.

Try a 1 to 2 second shot of carb cleaner into the carb. Then try to start. If it runs for a few seconds, something isn't right in the carb.

Generic is fine, just be sure to use coolant hose for coolant, vacuum for vacuum, etc. Only 1 piece I know where ordinary straight hose won't work is the small elbow off the top of the water pump to the heater hard line. It's a 90 degree elbow. NAPA has one that fits.

Regarding thesee silicone boots, are there any recommendations for good brands or brands to avoid?