DaveT

Try adjusting the cable!

You are looking for the newer generation forum. Welcome!

It does sound more like a clutch problem than a transmission problem.

When you replace a timing belt, the 3 idlers should be replaced also. Also, folow the procedure for installing. Then turn the crank by hand a couple revolution s. Re check the tension. Run for 10 seconds or so. Re check the tension. The reason I do this is that the belts walk into the position they want to run in during this. If you just put them on, tension and drive, they will settle in, but end up loose.

Crummy idle. Check - Plugs wires look for vacuum leaks

There is probably a link / thread on here with a list. The factory service manuals have a table. With the car idling, look at the blinking LED. Count the long blinks, and the short blinks. Long are the 10's place, short are the 1's place. So 3 long & 4 short means code 34, for example. If there is more than 1 code, they will list out in sequence. The sequence is repeated endlessly. Most often there is only 1 code. If you reply with the number /s you get, someone will reply with what it is.

I can't be sure, since you have a version I have never seen. I had an 86 with a carb, no ECU. All of my others were & are SPFI. On the SPFI, the ECU uses a 2 wire sensor for engine temperature. It will cause all kinds of drivability issues when failing. Often, without triggering a code. The temperature gauge uses a 1 wire sensor. On any of the Subaru engines, it is VERY important to fill and idle and check and recheck the coolant level before driving. Often refereed to as burping the system. Any time the coolant system is opened and partially drained, an air pocket can end up in the thermostat housing and or the water pump. This can cause an overheat, which is risky for headgaskets. Check the coolant level in the recovery tank AND the upper hose frequently, at least until you are sure that things are normal. Don't open the radiator cap, as this introduces air into the system. Sharply squeeze the upper hose, and listen for air / gurgling and the giggle pin in the thermostat. Only open the cap to add coolant if it sounds like the upper hose is mostly air.

There isn't a standard one. You read the codes on the LED on the ECU, under the steering wheel. There is a plastic panel that needs to be removed.

2 things I'd likely try to attempt to get more information. . Wire a headlamp bulb in series with the alternator output. Depending on the current drawn, it will glow. Notice whine, or lack, and measure voltages. Also, disconnect the alternator output from the car's wiring, and just connect it to a separate headlamp bulb, other side of the bulb to ground. Again, check voltages and whine or not.

Id.be looking for what may be causing a big load that is run via that fuse that made a difference. Have to determine if a lot of current is being drawn from the alternator output wire, or somehow you just got lucky and got a dead alternator. The whine and that much heat that quick is a sign of a heavy load or shorted rectifiers kind of failire.

I've gotten all the cooling system hoses from NAPA. The PCV hoses, dealer, or find generic hose rated for that use. The small vacuum lines, generic vacuum hose. No idea what all of it would cost.

What Scott wrote. Cigarette lighter sockets have to supply something like 10 amps at 12v to run the lighter. I can't imagine one being limited to less than 5 amps. That would be 60 watts at 12v. My phone will only fast charge with the cable it came with, and a usb 3 port. Usb 2 limits to 0.5A.

The O2 sensor is not used until the engine is up to normal operating temperature, and the ecu goes into closed loop mode. The CTS can cause all kinds of odd running / drivability issues when it is failing, and it doesn't always cause a code to set the CEL.

Good idea.

The idle as control solenoid - if the coil is open, it will die when you let the throttle fully close. As if you shut it off.

It could also be an intake or carb /tb gasket. Don't assume headgaskets based only on white smoke.

Check fuel pressure

You checked the correct sensor.

I'm not familiar with the specific year / model / engine. But it sounds to me like you are describing loose heat shields on the exhaust system. Buzzing that happens at specific RPM ranges and comes and goes depending on temperature.

Everyone it goes over normal temperature while low on coolant headgasket damage is possible or increased. At this point checking before every drive is what I'd be doing. Bother for air in the upper hose and the level in the bottle. Waiting to see the temperature gauge rise is too late.

I have used both anti seize from NAPA and synthetic wheEl bearing grease and had good results in CT.

The sensor with 2 wires, on the thermostat housing is the one that the ecu uses. The ohm readings were posted in a thread this year, and are in the fsm.

Welcome to the forum. Thank you for your service. Lots of experience aND help here.

Tomcat Press N' Set - white plastic mousetraps at hardware stores. Put one with it's mouth facing an edge. No bait needed. Mice follow edges. I've lost count of how many tens of mice I have gotten rid of with these, Mostly just around the outside of the house & garage, make a little tunnel with a few bricks & patio block so your cat can't get at the trap. I keep one in the cab of my Dynahoe now. I kept one in the parts car I had also. When I first put the one in the Dynahoe, I was getting 1 in the AM, one in the evening. Every day. For almost 2 weeks. Holy crap. Every once in a while, I get another wave in various traps. Just had a week of 2 per day in the edge of house & stone wall traps.

A couple of things - looking at fuses does not verify that they are good. They must be tested with a test lamp or meter in circuit. I have seen open fuses that looked good. Odd, dim lamps usually has something to do with an open ground / Broken ground wire. Sitting, especially outdoors, is really bad for cars. Any unsealed electric connection /s can be compromised. Mice cause lots of damage, eat insulation off wires, pack the HVAC system with nest materials.