DaveT

The O2 sensor does not do anything until the ECU sees that the CTS temperature reads that the engine is up to normal operating temperature. 33 = speed sensor 51 = Neutral switch

The belts I have on one are these: NAPA / Gates Green Stripe Fleet runner 9390HD short one, idler tensions, goes on first. 9451HD long one, Alt. tensions, goes on second. They seem to be lasting forever. They should be able to use those numbers to get the lengths. Put tension on both, then run for a few seconds, and re-check the tension. The one you tighten second will be loose.

It is squealing because the 1 belt can't transfer enough power without slipping. The idler can be rebuilt. It uses a standard 62xx or 63xx series ball bearing. Look for one with contact seals for longest life. Should cost less that $15.00.

There are a couple or 3 different configurations, and the 2 I have actually owned used different belts. The belts I have seen on either configuration are always 2 different lengths. Is you A/C compressor closer to the battery, or the alternator closer to the battery? I can look at my EA82 4WD 3AT wagon and see what belts I have. A factory service manual is way better than Chiltons, for everything. Watch ebay, look online for a download. Although, IDR if the list the belt lengths.

The few times I had to clear a flood, it took *several* tries once it started to sputter / almost try to run, before it really caught. With the pedal down the whole time. Only let up once you get to a few 1000 RPMs.

For the Elec trac, I have the 42" mower, 42" snow thrower, and the plow blade that attaches to the rear axle. Thanks, RE: the exhaust. Yeah, master of some.

Typically, there are 2 . AC, Power steering, water pump get both. Alternator gets 1.

The compressor clutch should only engauges in ac and defrost modes - at least for an ea82 powered car. It should cycle on and off depending on the cooling load, controlled by a fixed thermostat in the evaporator. Under high heat conditions, the compressor will be under heavier loading - is it possible the belts are loose? The ac clutch mechanically connects the big pull whichis essentially just a big idler, to the compressor. If the compressor was beginning to sieze, that could make the belts slip even if they are properly tight.

My .02.... OEM = pricey, but in CT w/salted roads, last about 8years. +/- probably varies with model. Aftermarket, Rust out, usually at flanges in much shorter time. Here is what I did: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/exhaust.html All stainless. I have not done the last section yet, but will be soon dealing with that. But the Y pipe and the mid section have been great. If I have to remove a piece to do anything, it just unbolts. No fighting with rusted nuts, stuck parts, etc. The way I made it, I used a tuner cat, and it's a small fraction of the cost to replace it VS the typical cat combined with pipes. This system even passed emissions testing.

So far they are still holding up.

I have never seen a stainless 10 x 1.25. I've had cars with OEM parts. I've looked. The nuts, yes, I have those in stainless. I have found 10mm stainless threaded rod, but never the 1.25 pitch. If anyone ever finds stainless 10 x 1.25, let me know.

10mm x 1.25 2-3 inches long. You may need to helicoil the heads, since they usually strip out of the aluminum.

Welcome! Yes lots of info here. Look around the new gen / old gen forum, depending on what your car is.

Might be worth saving the glass, I'm not sure if that is still available.

Not anything special. Motor turns a worm drive reduction to a pinion gear. A gear section is moved by that pinion, which moves the levers / linkages that push the window.

I've pulled them. A lot of things, just take time. A FSM has helpful information. Make notes / pictures if you think you might have trouble remembering how things were. Remove the glove box, and the kick panels and instrument cluster first. You *might* be able to get it out by just dropping the steering column from it's mounts, but I don't recall.

My 86 came with that jumpered so the compressor was always on. It was ruined when I bought it, at around 75k miles. Removed the mod, put in a new used compressor, never had another problem.

The entire SPFI system. But that is a project. The engine below the intake should be the same as your older ones. Brakes, axles, suspension all interchange, except a couple odd differences with axles, the fsm has a chart. The dash in the 93 might have a different instrument cluster. Mine had just an oil light, no voltmeter, so a swapped bits from other older ones and have the full set. Another diffences I discovered between my 86 carb vs 88 and newer spfi, all 3AT s, is the final gear ratio is taller in the carbed one, making it even slower than the lower hp alone compared to the spfi.

Check the CTS.

Kind of looks like someone started swapping a SPFI into a carb car. A few things look similar to my 86 carbed wagon. The fuel filter is not where it should be for SPFI. Look under the steering column, the ECU for the SPFI should be there, along with a LOT of wires on 3 yellowish plugs. To really see it, you have to remove the plastic kick panel that has the A/C knee level vent. I have swapped a SPFI intake onto a carbed block, so that can be done. Converting the whole car from carb to SPFI is a lot bigger deal. I'd want the entire front harness and engine harness from a SPFI. Possibly the dash harness also.

Ok, Are you sure it's the compressor lock up sensor? [which would save the belts] on Loyale AC systems, there are limit switches for refrigerant pressure. IIRC, over by the vapor recovery canister. Check those. Check that the system isn't over charged, unless you know it is not. It is also normal for the compressor to cycle on and off when the system is not under heavy cooling load. There is a thermoswitch in the evaporator. This prevents it from icing up.

At best, makes the compressor work too hard. Bleed some of the exceas out.

Legacy is a new generation car. More people who know them will see yor post in the new generation forum. Yes, the years overlap and confuse people sometimes.

I'm not sure if mine work. I have only very rarely let one get that low.

The maximum safe current in a wire us determined by the insulation temperature and such. Common building code ratings are for low temperature insulation. The alternator can only supply 55 amps for a long time. It could do more for a time determined by when something fails due to overheating, so short overloads are ok. Also the battery is capable if pushing hundreds of amps, and that is the real danger.