DaveT

Oh, just to note, the title "Subaru Nut" is just an automatic status the message board software give users based on post count. The user's name is in the bar above the post.

Yes, the stock 2WD front axles are lighter than the OEM 4WD axles. There is a chart in the FSM that shows the 3 kinds, and what they came with. I have been using the 2WD ones interchangeably with the 4WD ones, since I'm running stock everything, it's been fine. Gloyale answered regarding the arms / bearings / brakes. I think it was just the bulb missing - But I have a few clusters, so it is possible that I swapped one of those. It's not to hard to get it out and check.

The tube cross member on the 4wd has a couple of ears to mount the diff. The 2WD likely won't have them.

You can use any piece of hose, like 1/2" diameter. Also, a long night screwsriver, touch to block etc, handle to ear area.

I put 4wd 3AT at into a 2WD 3AT wagon. Swap the trailing arms, add the diff mount onto the tube the arms mount on. Had to fabricate the driveshaft center bearing mount. The holes for the moustache bar were visible under the car, but not drilled through all the layers. I drilled them through with a long thin bit, and then up through the wagon back floor, and used a hole saw to make access through the floor so I could put nuts on the bolts. Added the wires into the harness for the 4wd switch and dash light. Depending on years, the rear trans mount may need to be swapped.

They can be tough. Use anti seize when you re assemble.

It's probably not the load, it's the rpm. Low on refrigerant.

Sounds like the accelerator pump isn't working correctly. If it will accelerate very gradually, but wants to die if you step on it, that;s a sign of that.

+1 lucky texan. It may take a lot of cranking, but that should do it.

Assuming you have the kick panel removed, you have to just check everything. A fsm with schematics would help, there should be links somewhere. ...

Yes, always be aware that fuses and fusible links can be broken, and you can't tell by looking at them.

Not sure where to are trying to get into the wiring... Going by my experience with 4wd wagons, if none work, the main power feed is broken. Maybe fuse blew or broke.. I had to take the door panel off to bypass the broken power feed wire in the drivers door. The motors have 2 pin connectors. 12v and gnd will decide which way it runs up or down, but again, door interior has to come off. I'm pretty sure that an xt would be similar.

Step 1 22ft lbs Step 2 43ft lbs Step 3 47ft lbs Be sure to clean the holes and the bolts. Oil the threads. The sequence must be followed also, as shown in the shop manual. There should be links somewhere.

Fusible link specifications from my FSM: Square area in mm - melt in 15 seconds current 0.5 - 80Amps 0.85 - 130Amps 1.25 - 190Amps One of these is for the main alternator output, others are the fuses for the main power feeds to the fuse box. Proper fuse size and location is important to protect against starting fires in the wiring.

The fusible links are in the tens of amps range. Not unusual at all. They are in the main power distribution circuitry. I can try to find ratings a bit later. They are used because they are slow to blow, and way less spendy than regular fuses for the high currents would be.

Oh, thanks re: the roof rack. It comes in handy for the once in a while need to haul long things, or sheet goods. The weight is on the rain gutters and front bumper. Tied into the oem rack tracks only for front to back, and no load mounting. Somewhere around 300Lbs it starts to make the car handle funny. Always use ratchet straps and be sure things are secure, drive slower, and look ahead farther, etc.

I guess I'd try driving it some. In 4wd occasionally - on & off a lot. Keep hitting it with penetrating oil. Check it for movement before each drive. Also, driving it off and back on [even if its only moving a little] should help work the crud out, loosen up.

From my past experience - I would change out that hydraulic hose for coolant / heater hose sooner rather than later. Been there done that, had the failure. Not specifically with hydraulic house, but the compounds are formulated for the intended use - coolant, fuel, oil, temperature, etc. No guarantee that using any particular hose with a different fluid is going to survive.

Work it back on, and off. Might take a lot of that. If you use an air hammer, wear ear muffs. Hearing damage is cumulative, and permanent.

Oh, I see whats going on now - The pressure sender is the bigger one below, with the wire on it The second one, is just an idiot light switch, not usually in the models with a gauge. Typically, there is a plug there. It's 1/8" British pipe taper.

Oh, yes, if it is on the oil pump, it is the pressure sender. There should be a single wire coming down along the dipstick to it.

miss at most rpms.... Not an idle problem. Once the throttle is open some, the IACV has little effect on running. Verify all the plug wires are good. They can be check with ohms also. Also, running in the dark, look for arcs. These are 2 different checks for different problems.

Keeping one original, is the best way to continue the simple reliability.

The intake manifold has a main cooling system passage in it. The coolant exits the heads into it, on the way to the thermostat. It is necessary. The small line, is the tap to help prevent carb icing. When the carb was off, there should be the big air passage, and a smaller coolant pocket visible. Pretty much has to be the gasket, or a crack in the manifold. Maybe not tight or some odd thing?

The coil is ok then. If it's on the car, you should hear a mechanical click if you momentarily apply 12 V to the coil. If you have it off, you can see a plunger move when powered on & off.