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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    There is a coolant passage under the carb. If the gasket fails, or the manifold gets corroded enough, it leaks coolant into the intake.
  2. DaveT
    Looks like it needs a good cleaning. I'd want to be sure the aluminum surface is totally flat. The headgasket seals to the aluminum. The top edge of the cylinder liner doesn't matter so much.
  3. DaveT
    Looks like it needs a good cleaning. I'd want to be sure the aluminum surface is totally flat. The headgasket seals to the aluminum. The top edge of the cylinder liner doesn't matter so much.
  4. DaveT
    Oh, ok, just wantwd to be sure. The CTS is coolant temperature sensor. On the side of the thermostat housing, with 2 wires.
  5. DaveT
    That port you are pointing to connects to the fuel pressure regulator, which is the small diaphragm above your finger as viewed in the picture. There is a long hose connected to the fuel regulator that is routed to the wrong place. That port open will cause crummy idle. The top picture cuts out whatever that connector is connected to so I can't be sure of what it is.
  6. DaveT
    The axles, you'll have to search for used. In the 90's I always bought the turbo axels from scrap yards, re booted them, and ran them on my 4WD 3AT wagons. A FSM has a chart with the different axles for different models - some are interchangeable, some aren't. I'm still hunting for boots so I can rebuild a few I have, so they are ready for my cars the next time I need to swap one. The non turbo ones, boots are easier to find. In no case do you want aftermarket axles. I don't know the manual trans well enough to know, but once you have it apart, you'll be able to see wear on whatever. I have a 5spd DR 4WD transmission here that needs a good home. It was working when I removed it, I think it was under or around 150K, and I have a new clutch kit for it. Been stored indoors.
  7. DaveT
    Measuring the voltage across the coil doesn't tell much. The reading will be the same whether the coil is open or working. The ohm reading for a good IACV coil is 8.6 to 10.6 ohms. There should be open circuit from either pin to the body of the valve. When the engine is cold, disconnecting the IACV coil connector will cause a large change in idle speed. When hot, a smaller change. Unplug what sensor? The CTS can make for random idle and starting troubles. The IACV I had fail open, caused the engine to not idle. As soon as the throttle was released fully, it just shut off. I could keep it idling by manually keeping the pedal down just a bit.
  8. DaveT
    The EA82 doesn't have any area to bore out cylinders other than something like .02 or so for wear. Still would have hte flow limitations due to everything about the heads. Lots of $ for little gain. Adding a turbo would be the same as putting in an EA82T. New ECU, all the sensors, wiring, tuning, and reliability loss. Plus all the time and $. The cooling system is just big enough for the stock EA82. The EA82T was really edgy. Reliable and lowest cost, keep it stock. Want more power and keep the engine reliable, EJ. You might have to be careful with the power, as now your asking the driveline to handle 40% more than it was designed for. Well, maybe 20-30%, since it could have had an EA82T. Side note, EA82Ts had bigger CVJ cups and DOJ cups on the axles.
  9. DaveT
    Are you asking what the torque on the head bolts should be?
  10. DaveT
    I wouldn't swap in an ea82t. Hard to find, more parts are nla. Less reliability. Same amount of work to put an ej 2.2 in it, and you get more power than a turbo without the loss in reliability in the engine.
  11. DaveT
    I've run straight water in ea82s, no problem. They made the coolong system just big enough to do the job, but they didn't cut it that close. My votes: Gunk in radiator Blocked from outside airflow The little fine cooling fins separated from the tubes.
  12. DaveT
    The O2 sensors are not the cause, they don't do anything until the engine reaches normal operating temperature. Then just fine tune the mix for low emmisions. Check the CTS. Those can cause all kinds of weird and random running and starting problems, without causing a code. The FSM should have a simple ohmmeter test.
  13. DaveT
    Just to add - for anyone who may come across this, you must also check that coolant is in the upper radiator hose. Going only by the recovery tank invites blown headgaskets. This is done by sharply squeezing the hise, and listening for the jiggle pin and gurgling of air.
  14. DaveT
    I would be very concerned about heating bearing above a couple hundred F. It could ruin the hardness, and lead to very quick failure. Typically bearing races are pretty tight press on and off. Meaning it needs to be dissasembled enough to get at everything with big tooling.
  15. DaveT
    The transmission doesn't work, little to loose trying to fix it. Get a FSM. Should be lots of details in there.
  16. DaveT
    Either check with a dealer, or get some blank gasket material in advance, and cut your own. The little one for the valve is pretty simple. Just need to get similar thickness and rated for fuel contact.
  17. DaveT
    The FSM has the details. I don't have one here. The iacv should click, and you can see the valve move if you have it off the throttle body, if you apply 12v to it's coil. I once had a car where the wire to the iacv coil broke inside the harness on the engine.
  18. DaveT
    The crack is so common that there was a tsb from Subaru about it years ago. Headgaskets are oem or Fel Pro only. Intake gaskets are oem only. Also, the 2 o rings on the oil channels, oem.
  19. DaveT
    Looks like the common harmless crack.
  20. DaveT
    I didn't even think of it being British pipe. That's a surprise! That's where I'd connect a gauge. The analog sender port is a lot bigger, don't know what those threads are.
  21. DaveT
    Timing marks are on the flywheel. Could the timing belt be off 1 tooth? Are the bearings in the distributor good? A bad connection or ground could be interfering with something. The fsm has pretty detailed checks for all of the sensors. You also should check them from the ecu connector end, not just the sensor alone.
  22. DaveT
    It's metric. It's very close to 1/8" NPT, but it is not, it won't seal. I have adapters from Amsoil, but don't know the metric dimensions.
  23. DaveT
    Yes, governor stuck could be also. Had one get sticky in my 86, a long long time ago.
  24. DaveT
    One of my 3ATs lost 3rd and reverse. All it was was a small tube that fell out of the valve body to the band piston. So it could be something simple / stupid.
  25. DaveT
    The other thing about lifetime warrantees is that they count on you selling the car before it breaks.
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