DaveT

I think it is supposed to be flush on the outer surface, not pressed all the way in. I'm not where I can double check right now. I know the camshaft seal are not pressed in past flush.

I know they fit mix match 86 through 93, if they have ea82 engines. I am not sure about 83s. The flywheel is different between at and manual. There may be a difference in driveshaft length, in which case you would have to swap that also.

Try industrial suppliers - MSCdirect.com McMastercarr.com I have bought both packets of 100 and assortments from them. They also have different grades & materials. Ordinary o rings are very affordable, small ones, 100 only cost a few $. IIRC, most normal car size ones, they don't sell individual, but the price for whatever quantity [varies with the size] is not crazy, and you have lots of spares.

What part broke? Maybe part of the EA82 ones are the same, and the length is just the long shaft?

By the age and miles, it would be no surprise that either an intake or head gasket developed a slow leak. Leading to running over normal temperature while low on coolant. This damages the headgaskets. Can be minor, and nursed along for months, or bad making it un runable. Or anything in between. Either way, once the process has begun, it only gets worse. If one side is that blown, the other can't be good. It will also be leaking oil like mad anyway, simply due to age. If it was never run extremely hot, do a full reseal, and it should be good for at least another 100K, assuming you keep the cooling system at 100%.

There are lots of old threads on here about experimenting and trying to get more power out of EA82s. Lots of money, and or lots of time for small gains. Some of them have all the details as to why.

If you do the swap, keep all the original stuff, and some good notes. Swap it back one for tests and or selling.

Thete is a whole procedure to follow using those connectors. One for read memory, another for clear memory.

My experience with clogged fuel filters is that you loose full power at high demand long runs first. Idle to open throttle, no effect, since the bowl can fill up during the idle time.

I happen to have a printout of various engine HP vs models right here... EA82 SPFI = 90HP @ 5600RPM EA82T = 115HP @ 5200RPM EJ-18 = 110HP @ 5600RPM EJ22 90-93 = 130HP @ 5600RPM EJ22 95-96 = 135HP @ 5400RPM

Just a wild guess, is the accelerator pump working? It's been a long time since I did anything with a carburetor car, but there isn't much else involved.

EA82 SPFI is the same for all years it was made, so nothing to worry about there. The fuel injector should click and spray a noticeable burst of fuel while cranking. Use an ohm meter, check for about 2 ohms between it's 2 wires. Also check for open circuit between 1 of the wires and the throttle body. I have also tested them to verify opening by applying 12V from the battery across the 2 wires - unhooked from the ECU of course. There should be fuel pressure held for hours after a cranking, so this will spray fuel if it is working. Do not make or break the connections near the throttle body, make and break the last connection near the battery! Don't hold it on for a long time, just a few taps is all you need to see it functioning.

The recording isn't high fidelity, but it does sound like lifter tick, at least rythm wise. Rod knock has a lower frequency component to the sound. If it is mostly constant. it may be 1 stick lifter. When it's the oil pump seals, it tends to vary more. As in come and go, and more or fewer lifters ticking.

More description of what is going on would help.

There are a lot of threads about the timing belts, and links to youtube videos. I'd check that next.

Did it ever run? Check that the distributor rotor turn when you crank it.

The fuse is nesisary. If somehow that wire ever shorted to ground, you have an instant flash fire. I almost burned down my first Subaru years ago due to fuse not in the proper location, ie. Close to the power feed source.

Yep, some years ago, I bought a rusty one locally for $150.00. Ran it for another 10 years. Lots of rusty ones around here back then, in CT. 3 years ago, I bought a rust free one from CA, paid about 3K for it plus another 1K to ship it. Supply and demand. I probably have more used parts for them than most local scrap yards, since I need them to keep running them.

Only temporary. If a part is rusted through, a lot of other places are likely soon to fail anyway.

If it is lifter tick, it can be loud, but it's a thin sound. All treble, no bass. Lifter tick often is caused by the seals on th oil pump leaking air in. They are replaceable. Oil pumps are no longer available, except for used ones, which likely would need a reseal.

Going by what I've read on here, from members with more experience tweaking engines than I, you could get a small gain by building an exhaust with pipe a size or 2 bigger than stock, keeping more or less to the factory plumbing arrangement. The major limiting factor on the EA81 and 82 engines is the porting in the heads and the valves. And if you try to modify that stuff, it's big money and or time and little gain. A noticeable gain can be had by fitting the spfi system from an ea82 onto an ea81. I don't recall how that compared to a weber though.

Hi and welcome. You will likely see more replies if you post this in the newer generation sub forum.

Something has to be mechanically stopping the throttle from returning to closed position. No other way to get enough air and fuel in there to get to 4000 rpm.

That would take *lots* of planning I'd think. Lots of researching other members who have done it, how they dealt with all the details. I've swapped an engine in a weekend. I haven't worked against a deadline like that in a long time, I have 3 cars 2 drivers, in part to avoid such stress.

Because if you want more than a little tiny bit more power, you can spend a ton on an ea82, and get less that you would have if you ej it, and that would be easier and cheaper.