DaveT

100%. Adding a relay is the quick and simple way to make the system reliable. You are correct, the drop is enough to cause the solenoid to move and make noise, but not enough to get the contacts to close and run the starter motor.

Running around with the green connectors connected doesn't hurt anything, you just don't want to so the system functions as intended. Most of time when it won't start or run at all, it's something basic. Most of the codes are a sensor out of spec, solenoid coil open, that kind of thing.

The procedure is very detailed in the factory service manual. You will have more people see this kind of question if you post it in the historic or older generation sub forum, depending on the year of your car.

Hi and welcome. Yep, it's been that way for a while. Most parts are special order from Napa. If this is a car you intend to rely on daily, you'll want to start collecting parts.

+1 what naru wrote.

The block should be flat also. I haven't had warped heads yet I'm thinking it would take some serious abuse ro warp the block. Forget an easy out style extractor. They are only meant to work with bolts snapped off in clean holes, not corroded ones. Read too many stories of snapped of extractors in stuck bolts. Then you have a real mess.

Penetrating oil and heat. I have found that getting the block to normal operating temperature before turning any bolts avoids the snapping problem, if care is used to work any that feel sticky loose. Now if there is anything left exposed when you get the head off, big vise grips and heat, if it's down in the bore, drilling. Must be centered. Then very likely to have to helicoil it. For the heating, I've used a space heater and a heat gun together to get a good soak of heat into everything. Yeah, if the heads are warped that bad, you can tell when you start the sandpaper and glass method. It would just take too long to get them flat that way.

Radiator must be full or you can have air get trapped in the water pump. Never drive if the level in the radiator is low. A little air in the upper hose is sometimes ok, but anything less than full is not good.

What 1LT wrote. Get an oem thermostat in there now. Go through the burping procedure, which should be detailed in numerous threads. Closely monitor coolant level aline the overflow and air in the upper hose. This can take a week of checking before every drive. The spiking is not good. It can slowly cause the headgaskets to fail.

OK. From looking at the pics, and reading some of the info, it looks to me like longer studs go through those cast iron "spacers" to hold the exhaust onto the heads. It's likely the threads are stripped out in the aluminum. I might try one of the thread repair systems on the cast iron parts, rather than removing them and going at the heads.

What year and engine?

The studs should be straight bits of rod that are threaded. No spacers or anything else should be in there. Sometimes the holes get stripped, needing helicoil or timserts, etc. To repair.

Welcome to usmb! Try posting in the newer generation sub forum, since more people will see your question. Check for fuel pressure, and spark before buying parts.

Yes, when you begin sanding, you will see a mark from the fire ring. Sand until it dissappears. The hand sanding as described is resurfacing the heads.

I am confused by the title. MPFI doesn't use a carb, as far as I know. It would have a throttle body. Model & year might help get more replies also.

I have used the glass with sandpaper, no problem. Never did valve seats. On my most recent reseals, I used anaerobic sealant on one engine, on another, I carved out the groove and used o ring stock. I have lapped the valves on a couple, don't know that they needed it. It did not take long to have nice mating surfaces.

Never heard of 6 star. For these engines. I would go by what GD wrote. I have not had to do one of these newer engines yet. I have done a few older ones, and used Fel pro, which is the only brand I have seen recommended other than oem.

You have to take the cam towers off to remove the heads. Lots of oil leaks from that joint anyways. You want to replace the oil channel o ring with an oem one also. I've always used Fel Pro head gaskets dry, don't know about the blue stuff. It is completely normal and ok for there to be a small crack in the heads between the valve seats. There is a TSB on it. You will have to reset the distributor if you remove it from it's mounting position, and or remove the cam. You do not have to remove either to remove the cam tower. When you align things for timing belt install it will be in the right place of you leave it in place.

Welcome to usmb. For the 79 brat, more people will see your post in the historic generation forum. For the 07, use the newer generation forum.

Sounds like you got it. Definitely get factory service manuals for both cars. For some, there are links for online.

Any EA82 or EA82T to EJ swap is not plug and play. Yes, the EJ is a lot more reliable than an EA82T. And easier to find parts for. And more power. You still need the adapter plate and related stuff you can find in the swap threads. You will need to do extensive wiring harness modification. You will want an entire EJ car to use for the swap, so that you have all of the electrical / harness / ECU etc.

I iacv and or the cts. Including the wiring to them. O2 sensor only fine tunes the mix after fully up to operating temperature.

Typically, alternators ground through the mounting bolts, etc.

I'm not sure if the orings are included. There are a few listed, but apparently, I used them. What I do: Get the headset & conversion kit. If the orings for the pump are not there / correct, go to the dealer. Still need the seal and other parts. At around 100K miles, it's pretty common to need to do a reseal of these engines. 150K miles = alternator brush wears out. Replace the timing belt and 3 idlers every 50K to be sure you are not stranded by a belt breaking. Higher quality parts only. No cheapie kits. Also, 30 years old, regardless of miles, plastic and rubber [seals etc.] are going to be end of life. Always have boot kits for the CVJs on hand. Regrease and reboot axles, don't drive them until they are destroyed and get aftermarket junk. I've been maintaining GL / Loyales since 1988. I've had several. One died in a wreck. Others taken by rust. Rust is the #1 killer, so stay ahead of it. I have an 87 and a 93 currently, with near zero rust. I've driven a couple of them past 200K miles, and rust was the only reason they are gone. But I kept the driveline parts.

Is the groove in the pipe smooth and clean? Is the bore in the pump smooth? I had one remanufactured, with pits. Make sure the thing isn't bent or putting a lot of force against the oring when you bolt down the tab. I have found that silicon plumber's grease can help seal them, and keep hoses from sticking. A few times, I use a small amount of RTV on the oring to seal to the pitted surface of the tune, or housing. IF you decide to try this, everything must be clean and dry. And wait a good day before filling with coolant.