DaveT

As long as it isn't leaking lots or burning lots, I run Amsoil 10w-40. For the tick, reseal the pump first. I have had some pumps that were audible, some not. Weird idle and drivability issues could be caused by the cts failing. Or loose connection or loose ground. I have 2 4wd wagons with ea82s. I don't plan on giving up on them anytime soon. It's all in your preferences and resources.

They are no longer available. Most likely you don't need the pump, only the seals. A Fel Pro headset conversion kit has the shaft seal. Probably the other o ring Dealer for the micky mouse o ring.

That's good stuff too.

A lot more people would see this in the older generation forum. There are lots of threads and links and explanations there.

Are they extremely large? You might have to use a photo editor to reduce the file size to be under the maximum.

Try the newer generation forum. Make sure you are logged in.

Um, you just did? What year model etc. Do you have?

Wire a parking lamp bulb in place of the link. Go down stream and disconnect things until the lamp goes out.

Too much rtv. The gasket is supposed to be very thin. The surfaces should be cleaned well. I have used rtv as a gasket sealer, very thin amount, tighten right down to proper tourque on assembly. If it ooses out, too much. I have not had leaks doing this. I have also used the spray on copper gasket sealant with good results.

Wow, it's rare for a wiring error to not cause damage, great that it's working now!

Welcome to USMB. EJ is a newer generation engine. You will likely get more replies for this question in that sub forum. Do you have a factory service manual? There are links on a lot of new gen forum threads to online ones. Probably best to start a new thread, rather than adding to a year old one.

Intermittent high resistance connection in the harness between the ignition switch, or the contacts in the solenoid need replacing. There is a thread or 2 about adding a relay, which fixes the high resistance problem.

It's weird they don't show it. I haven't had trouble with one - and I've been running these since 1988. It is a TO-3 case transistor. Marked 1603 on one I have handy. Probably an internal / custom part number, it didn't show up in a quick search. It should be possible to figure out what type it is and find a workable substitute.

There are a couple of really well hidden bolts.

It should be grounded by the frame and mounting bolts. Open ground wouldn't cause a load when it's off. Check for current in the control wires. Check for current in the main output cable. Both when the car is off. Double check the control wiring. Deep discharges like that will kill a battery so it's being damaged every tI'm it happens. Until you can check for those current leaks, unhook the battery between drives.

If it's anything like an ea82 hvac system, they probably ate the sealing foam off of the blend doors. I had to replace all of that also.

Once you get to 50 or more, it's aerodynamic drag. That's why all the new cars almost look the same.

When I got my 87 wagon, mice had made nests in the hvac system. I took out the dash and everything and cleaned it with bleach, etc. There can be some nasty stuff in there that you don't want to breath in and get sick.

+1 what lmdew wrote. Miles over 100k isn't what kills subarus, rust is. Bad overheats only kill engines.

If it's original battery, it is overdue by about 2 years. Typical LA batteries have 5 year lifespan under ideal conditions. Normal use in a car is not ideal conditions. Or, it could just be dirty / corroded connections, or open circuit in the battery, or other main power feed.

I'm not a carb expert. Sounds like it running rich, from your description and emissions results. If the vacuum lines are not right, you have little chance of passing. If you don't have a fsm, find one, or an online copy. That should help with the emmisions system connections, and more.

If it helps, think of it this way. Cost of oem parts over 100k miles. A lot less expensive than bent valves.

If it's an interference engine, I take no chances, go oem for all timing parts. I'm pretty sure that 08 would be interference.

That is pretty weird. It's hard to come up with a way the threads would be insulared enough to cause arcs there.... and the washers should be slightly crushed between the head and the plug, and that should be bare metal to metal, which would be good contact.

Yes, that could be. Just something to check to be sure it's coming back.