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Everything posted by DaveT
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Sounds like a choke problem
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I had a 76 like that one, except only 2 headlights. And a 78 that was blue. 2 of the simplest and most reliable cars ever owned. Your noises are probably the cv shaft. That old out there, might need seals for the wheel bearings. The bearings are standard ball bearings, any industrial bearing supply place will have them if car parts places don't carry them.
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The black stuff takes months to build up. And getting one to run for months with the beginning failure takes very close monitoring of the coolant level. Like checking before every drive. 99 % of my experience is on the older ea82s. It Takes a good few days of close monitoring to determine for sure if it's the headgaskets pushing the coolant onto the recovery tank. A recent thread seems to have semonstrated that a bad radiator cap can cause similar symptoms on some models. There are other similar threads with the details.
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Low coolant in radiator is bad. Excess coolant in overflow is bad. Cheap aftermarket thermostat is not good. Failing headgaskets typically do NOT mix coolant into the oil on subarus unless they are very fully blown. If run for a long while with the beginning failure, the continual slow leak of exhaust gasses will leave traces of black stuff in the overflow tank.
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1983 GL-10 Slow Battery Drain
DaveT replied to tdodge41's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
To find a battery drain. Unhook the negative cable. Connect a test lamp between the battery terminal and the cable end. Pull fuses until lamp goes out. Also the thick white wire on the bolt on the back of the alternator. -
If the 24 is for the Idle Air Control valve, that can kill idle. Check that it clicks if you apply 12V to the coil. Check the lamp for the CEL. It should light during crank / or key on engine off, just like all the other ones light up. After installing timing belts, I turn the engine a couple of revolutions. RE check tension. If it's still ok, run it for 10 seconds - before installing anything else. Then re check. Sometimes, the belts are not in their normal running path when you first install them, this gives them a chance to settle into position.
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There are numerous threads about setting up the timing. The factory service manual is also good. Miles Fox youtube videos I have heard of also.
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My dash lit up like a Christmas tree. Help!
DaveT replied to jmoss5723's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Typical alternator failure -
Both sides of a good fuse should be same brightness, usually full brightness with a test light. Lots of people report trouble with aftermarket alternators. O2 sensor doesn't do anything until the engine is up to normal operating temperature. I don't know xt6s, just spfi ea82. Double check harness connectors that were unplugged during the reseal.
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Cvs pop when turning, bad. Try to find oem and regrease and reboot. After market are junk. Ac. The only way to find out what's wrong is to recharge it. Put a dye shot in it also. R12 was original.
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yes, the glass method. You need some way to press the valve springs down, to free the keepers. I've done it by using a piece of bar with a hole in the middle, and pressing legs on it, on the floor, as you need hands free to deal with the keepers. The last time, I used some unistrut to make a lever with a hing, clamped to the workbench, so I could hold it down with one hand, and handle the keepers with he other. I used a piece of foam or rag underneath to make a support so the valve didn't just open, which makes it impossible to remove the keepers.
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Lots of threads on ej swap in the older generation forum. Go past an ej22 fi, and you will need to swap the rest of the driveline to avoid breaking things. Especially with bigger tires. It's about 40% power increase over an ea82.
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Oh, no, I did not mean to imply running the engine in that condition!
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Es, torch cam do it also, but way easier to go over temp and cook something that shouldn't be. Probably not a big deal for a full reseal, but I've had cases where I only need to pull the intake, didn't want to risk cooking a seal or whatever. It's faster to just let the engine run to get it warmed, if it runs....
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New member, old hatch, "new" 5spd tranny!
DaveT replied to naughtJrunk's topic in Meet n' Greet. Your USMB Welcome Center
For specific questions, the best sub forum would be the older generation one. More activity there.- 2 replies
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- gl hatchback
- 5spd d/r
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Use a space heater, heat gun and a meat thermometer to get the entire engine close to nreal operating temperature. Then carefully work the bolts loose. I got some very crusty intake and headbolts out with this method. The egr pipe also.