DaveT

I've heard of many disasters with easyouts... Probably better to use a left hand drill. If it doesn't come out while drilling, easy out is a big risk of getting a piece of hardened steel stuck in the bolt. I'd wait util someone can confirm this.

Unless you are hearing bad sounds, I'd probably try new headgaskets. Thise old wagon wheel rims.... I had those. The only place that could balance them was a local Subaru dealer. Now I just have the oem ones with hubcaps.

The easiest way is to transplant the pedal assembly from the standard shift car.

Try posting on the buy sell section? It's going to be hard to find anyplace that still has these old parts. Maybe carpart.com? Other people on here that have turbos may know of a place. One of the things I've done to deal with this sort of problem, is is be watching for local cars. I've had things happen a few times - Back when I was driving my 76 and it was around 10-15yrs old - A guy saw me in a parking lot and long story short, sold me a 78 for $1.00. I didn't need it, but it was a bunch of parts. Another time, similar thing - a guy saw me with my old GL, his family was closing their small repair shop. Had several GLs and parts out back. "Go take whatever you want." I got a few sets of usable fenders, couple of heads, and other removable engine parts. Headlights, etc. Spent a day pulling off whatever I could, and that I figured might someday need. I tried to arrange a car trailer to grab a whole car, but the plans fell through. point is always be watching, and ready to jump.

The one I had that cracked, the coolant was dripping out of the exhaust port. Replacing the heads / headgaskets can be done with the engine in the car. I prefer to pull it and have easier access to everything, but I have the setup and space for doing it.

Probably a weber. Depending on what car you have, try asking on the old gen or new gen sub forum.

I don't know that model. That does soND weird. Like maybe the always on power for the clock and memory isn't getting to the radio. More people will see tech questions for a crosstrek in the new gen forum.

I can't see the spray when looking, the angles don't allow it. I did see fuel hitting the plate, and traveling outward to the edges. Things need to be tested checked measured, not just replaced. That method costs more than a meter and a vacuum gauge.

The best thing I have found that helps avoid snapping bolts is getting the engine to near normal operating temperature. By running, or a space heater and a heat gun, and a meat thermometer. Then carefully loosening by gradually working sticky ones back and forth. The headers are held on by studs with nuts. Don't use bolts, as it's way easier to strip the threads in the heads.

On the handful of ea82s I have had, resealing the oil pump fixed it. Possibly also the cam tower orings, as a couple were included in reaeal due to leaking oil everywhere, and or headgasket damage from running low on coolant. Use 10w-40 oil.

Nothing interchangeable that I know of. Short of an ej swap, but that's not interchangeable. Maybe a few bolts.

Why bad rings? Did something really bad happen to it? 90K miles is nothing. I've driven a couple past 200K. Maybe bad overheat or some other big disaster could damage the rings. Or years of total crap oil? Even that would have to be extreme. Here's why I say extreme- I had an engine that survived a bad overheat. It survived a few 30 minute drives at 4000RPM with 50/50 mixture of synthetic oil and water in the crank case! But after I resealed it, it burned oil like crazy. Like a quart per tank of gas crazy. It had an Amsoil bypass filter on it also. Since I have other engine in better shape, I just kept topping it off with whatever cheap oil I could find, alternating with used oil from other cars, ATF, different weights, you name it. It ran great. For years. The only thing that stopped me from running it was one of the heads cracked to the point where during an 8 hour day at work, 16oz of water would leak out of the head while parked. I have yet to fully disassemble it, but I did take off the cracked head. The factory hone marks are still in the cylinder bore.

I'd have to check my fsm. More people with loyales will see your post on the older generation forum, best to start a new thread. The most accurate way to check for sneak current is to disconnect a battery terminal and put a running lamp bulb in series. It will glow depending on how much current is being drawn. Then pull fuses until it goes out. Also pretty common failure is alternator output rectifier. Disconnect the heavy white wire on the back of the alternator to check that one.

Headgaskets typically fail to outside of block and coolant passage. You really have to cook one to get coolant in the oil. I'm not specifically familiar with turbos. Technically, anything is repairable but my hunch is that it's cheaper to find a usable head, if it turns out that it is cracked. Try to verify the exhaust gaskets are all sealed. Need to find the coolant leak under the hood, if it is that. If it's a bad exhaust leak, then the smoke could be coming from it and obviously out the tailpipe also. The smoke out the exhaust could be a cracked head or bad intake gasket. Maybe pull the exhaust off the heads, look up the ports for coolant dripping down....

Exactly what happens when the sensor partially fails in a way that tells the engine it is cold all the time. Engines don't run well with the mixure balanced for a cold engine when warm. Or the reverse.

Unlikely. Fsm should have the test procedure for all of those sort of parts.

Cts can cause drivability issues without triggering a code. It has no effect on the gauge, that's run by a 1 wire sensor.

EA82s almost always have a hairline crack between the valves. There is a tsb about it, it's normal. Bad overheat cam make a big one that causes coolant leaks. Turbos are at higher risk and more troublesome than spfi and carb.

I've had these ea82 wagons since 1988. Some I got middle aged, one I got when it was 2yrs old. One I got quite old, but we'll cared for low miles. I bought that 87 one because it had no rust, and the beater I was driving was very rusty. The 87 sat in my garage for a few years, until I added 4w, and the beater was too far gone. They all got leaky and needed a reseal around the same time and or miles, whichever came first. The 87 was leaky when I got it, it got worse when I started running it. The newest ea82 out there was made in 94, well over the time for a reseal, regardless of miles or sitting, going by my experience with several of them. Lifter tick tends to be random and vary.

Tod lifter tick is a thin light sounding metallic tick. Rod knock has a much deeper note to it. It's due for a reseal just by years. That's headgaskets up. IncLuding the shaft seal on the oil pump. This usually fixes or dramatically reduces the oIL leaks. The shaft seal usually fixes the lifter tick.

Set aside some cash every month, that is your extended warranty. For most Subarus, miles are not that big of a deal, and lots of people pay a lot of cash for low miles when the car with 150k is still fine. Get one with about 100k on it. Maybe drop a few hundred or so for new timing parts, or extreme case, do a reseal, but then good for another 100k. Be sure to check out threads on here about which engines to avoid and prefer first.

Oh, side note, you'll see more traffic for these kinds of questions on the old gen forum for the 87 wagon, new gen for the impreza

I never saw a discussion about ac swap along with the ej swap. It should be do able. Have to decide if mounting the ea compressor is easier or adapting the lines for the ej compressor. I'm not sure how different the systems are capacity wise, which if they are close it should be ok. Need fsm for both models to compare stuff.

Wow, that's low miles.

The alternator Lasting that long is a fluke. Every one of several I have had wore out a brush around 150k miles. I also have seen regulator and diode failures. Pumping the pedal before cranking doesn't do anything as there is no accelator pump in a throttle body.