DaveT

Sounds like more than 1 problem. Electrical stuff: Weak battery. Failing alternator. Bad connections. Running poorly stuff: Coolant Temperature Sensor. Idie Air Control valve.

I'd take it apart first. See what's wrong / why it stuck.

Check the cooling system. Gas may be stale. If it's less than half, add a few gallons of new. Sitting outside or in a garage?

It's tough.... my solution to allow me to drive and afford 30 year old daily drivers is to have 2 of them. Do all the work myself. Most of the tine, when one is down with areal problem, I have the other one. Only catch is if I slack off and end up with 2 projects simultaneously. Came close once.

Bad idea to drive it like that.

I looked at my fsm, there are a few indications of differences. I'm not 100 % sure what they do, and I don't have both cars to cross check. Th= fsm is lot better than the after market service books. Someone may have a link to the ecu schematics.

There is also 1 wire on the ecu that tells it what kind of transmission it has, manual or auto.

The stock idlers are press fit. If the 6005 goes together with similar force that the original came apart with, I'd think it would be ok. They could have the 2 bearings very close, or maybe a spacer. Have to measure stuff, etc.

I am not sure about the 6. Ea82s are non interference. Somewhere along the timeline ej2.2 went from non. To interference. In electric motors, the bronze sleeve bearings are typically used when there is no or very little side loading, or low speed. At least where long life is a factor.

They have to spin very fast. Over crankshaft rpm by a little. They have side loading, unlike a pilot bearing. They are 6301. The gear idler is 6203.

That sounds good. One thing I have changed about first run testing is that after the initial run and top off, do one additional cold to hot cycle only idling. Not driving. Easier to catch that run away caused by air pocket getting into the water pump without cooking the brand new headgaskets.

Now that you mentioned it, Kaman was the first place I found I could get bearings with high temperature grease and contact seals to rebuild the idlers on my ea82s. Regular electric motor sealed bearings didn't hold up.

Swap the transmission. Maybe have to reconfigure a couple of wires. People have done it. I know the 3ATs, not so much the stick shifts. Bad knee took me out of them.

It might be worth a try doing this - once it sucks in, top off and close before it bubbles out? I'm close to sea level, don't have experience at altitude, but it could make a difference in the boiling point. If it were bubbling from cold, that's a sign of bad headgaskets.

That is a weird number. I'd try measuring and see if a standard 62xx or 63xx fits at least some of the dimensions.

Staring from cold. Open cap. Fill. Start engine. Level may change. Rev engine a few times. It may draw in some coolant or push out some air. Top off. When the thermostat opens, it may cause some to overflow. It is not normal for it to push out lots of air or coolant during all of this. Opening when hot may cause a gyser effect, if some coolant boils in the block. More chance of this if you are at high altitudes.

The big nut was probably loose. That lets the spline get torn up.

Are you adding the 4wd also? I added 4WD to a 3AT wagon. Swapped the fwd transmission for a 4wd, and added the parts for the 4wd

The CEL on and off is completely normal for the open coil failure. Almost every oem solenoid I have had has failed. I've been running ea82 cars since 1988. My same Toyota solenoids get moved from car to car, since about 1990. I'm in CT it is nowhere near as hot all the time here.

I've never had one intermittently open. It's just seemingly random when the ecu decides to check it, and then take the action to report it. The solenoid is only activated under certain circumstances.

Hi and welcome. You may get more answers in the newer generation sub forum.

I run 4000rpm at 65 all the time. Not a problem, these engines are made for rpms.

Fancy generators may have low oil shutdown, since typically, no one is sitting in front of the control panel monitoring the gauges. I have not seen it on a car, but I don't do new cars, so I can't say about the newest ones.

That on and off is typical of the coil open failure of the egr solenoid. Robm is the member who knows about the one from India. I have a web page for the Toyota solenoid mod. It doesn't hurt to check grounds, you want those in good condition also. Clean them and apply anti seize compound.

Engine turns, ok, good. Does the distributor rotor turn with the engine?