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DaveT

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Everything posted by DaveT

  1. DaveT
    That's like when I found a car slower than my 76 4WD wagon. A VW Rabbit Diesel.
  2. DaveT
    In the case I experienced, it wasnt that the leak came and went, it was a small leak, that shifted the reading to be right on the edge of the code set limit, then any small variable could trip it on and off.
  3. DaveT
    Our 01 Forester had the intermittent 0420 code. New O2 sensors had no effect. Turned out to be a small exhaust leak in the cat pipe. Any leak between the 2 O2 sensors would cause the code. Yes, it can be caused by other things as well. Failing cats is one for sure, as that is what the 2nd O2 sensor is there to do - verify operation of the cat.
  4. DaveT
    If you get a thermostat, get OEM or high grade Stant. Other cheaper ones have been known to cause problems.
  5. DaveT
    Depending on the geometry of the system on your car, opening the radiator cap indruduces air, which is why I don't check by opening the cap unless there is no coolant in the upper hose.
  6. DaveT
    Check level of coolant : check the rover tank is filled to the line. Sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose. You should hear the giggle pin in the thermostat. You should feel water resisting the squeeze. You may hear air gurgle. If it feels or sounds like only air, that has to be dealt with. A normal good non leaking system should have no air at all, or maybe a tiny amount.
  7. DaveT
    Make sure there is no air in the system.
  8. DaveT
    I've had that failure a couple of times. One of the rectifier diodes partially fails allowing current to back flow from the battery.
  9. DaveT
    5 years is end of life for lead acid batteries, under ideal conditions. Sometimes they will continue to function beyond that, but a full test of capacity, and cca would show the degradation.
  10. DaveT
    Who make the best timing belts now? I'm not worried about the idlers, I have that covered.
  11. DaveT
    Do you have a part number for the kyb white bump stops?
  12. DaveT
    I think I found the same listings on partsgeek.. The picture you have above looks like the one listed for a 1.6L engine. If you have a 1.8L engine [EA82] then you want one the other ones. I have always run the 2 row turbo radiators in my GLs & Loyales. But those are not to be found any more. The brand I had happened to find that used to sell them was CSF, all metal.
  13. DaveT
    Probably first guess. Check for cracks and the like also. With it leaking that bad, it might be easier to find with pressure.
  14. DaveT
    I would lean towards using the UV dye with partial charge, rather than letting the vacuum suck in soapy water.
  15. DaveT
    A fsm will have diagrams for the vacuum lines. Also might be worth checking the diaphragm in the modulator. When it fails, atf is sucked up the vacuum line, and burned along with the fuel.
  16. DaveT
    Hitachi. Note, you will likely have more answers if you post in the older generation sub forum.
  17. DaveT
    Those are the lines for the automatic transmission cooler. If you don't have an automatic, just cap them with dust covers, and use it. Not a leak risk. I've never seen an aftermarket radiator without them.
  18. DaveT
    I've never had to replace or rebuild an oil pump, just replace the seals. With proper maintainance, it should be ok. Yes, parts are going to be harder to find. I am expecting that. I have a lot of spare parts to keep my ea82s going for a long time. How practical it is to run 30 year old cars depends on your situation. Do you have space to store spare engines, driveline parts, etc.?
  19. DaveT
    The wiring in GL and Loyale is quite long. Lots of connectors. The starter solenoid draws 20 plus amps. It doesn't take much drop for it to not be fully pulled in, thus the click no crank. The relay draws maybe 0.2 amp. And the short wires on the contact side ensure full battery voltage to the solenoid.
  20. DaveT
    12.6 v is normal fully charged battery at rest. When you get the click, if the rest of the electric stuff stays on, and doesn't dim out significantly, the connections are probably ok. Relay, or another connection in the crank circuit can be intermittent. FSM will have all the details of switches fuses, connectors. All need to be checked. Intermittents are a pain to find.
  21. DaveT
    The relay I used is a black plastic cube about 1" with a metal mounting tab, and 1/4" push on tabs for the connections. I bought it at NAPA. I mounted it using one of the bolts that hold the fuel filter bracket. One end of its coil connets to the wire that originally plugs onto the starter. Other end of the coil goes to gnd. Run a 12 awg wire from battery + to a fuse, then one of the contacts. Othe contact goes to back of starter.
  22. DaveT
    Later tonight I'll be where I can try to find a fsm online. The fuses look good... by testing with a voltmeter? You cannot tell by visual inspection. I have had failed fuses that look just perfect visually.
  23. DaveT
    I need to know the model and year engine size, etc. of the car, and have the link to the fsm to be that specific.
  24. DaveT
    Look for rhe engine electrical schematic. Find the alternator section. It might take a little tracing of lines, etc. To figure it out, but it should show what fuse is in the circuit. It should show what pins go where. On gemeral, 1 wire has to be going to the alternator light or indicator lights. One has to be fed power via the ignition switch. Those circuits have to be intact and functional for the alternator to work.
  25. DaveT
    I worded part of that oddly. The fuse isn't likely specific to the alternator, it is likely for engine systems power, and the alternator just happens to be one of the things fed by it.
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