DaveT

Probably depends on the year and model of the car. I know the older Loyales and GLS best, the fuses for the control wires would be in the cabin. Having the factory service manual schematics of the wiring would be helpful. I have seen links to online download able ones for most Subarus in other threads.

Oh, the small wires, there are usually at least 2 small wires from a connector on the alternator that go to the alternator light, ignition switch, etc. What exactly depends on the car. Going by the readings you gave above, the voltage is way low for with the engine running. The voltage on the alternator terminal reading lower than the battery post indicates no output from the alternator. So either te alternator is dead, or one of those small wires isn't doing what it supposed to. It would be worth checking fuses. Not with an ohm meter, not by looking at them, but by measuring each end to ground. With the engine running. Both sides / ends of a good fuse should read close to the same voltage.

12.3 at rest is very discharged. The alternator is not making power, for sure. Could be the alternator, or one of the small wires isn't doing what it should. One of those has to be a "turn on the regulator" / "key on" kind of control. I can't be specific without the fsm. The reason to measure voltage between the alternator frame and negative battery terminal is this. It should be near zero, but a few 10s of milli volts indicates current flow. Also, for high current paths, an ohm meter can give misleading results. An example would be a poor connection that will read zero ohms with the fraction of a milli amp that the meter uses, but goes open when you try to push 20amps through it.

Don't have to drain the oil to pull the heads, or anything above them. The first time I saw a TOD thread on here, I didn't know what they were talking about. I had already had lifter tick and fixed it. I can only guess someone new to cars thought it was a horrific going to die soon sound.

+1 What GD wrote.

Well, that all makes sense. I'm avoiding letting it shift with lots of slip.

Fel Pro head set and conversion kit. Except dealer oem intake manifold gaskets and cam tower o rings. Timing belts and all 3 idlers. Avoid cheapie kits. I rebuild the idlers, so I have no info on a good kit.

The reading for the alternator output is the one big bolted connection, fat wire. The last reading is voltage also, with the same conditions, idle, reved, off.

The readings on the battery, probed right on the posts. Yrs everything wired as it should be. Alternator terminal to alternator frame. A bonus / double check put 1 probe on the alternator frame and the negative battery post

You need a voltmeter. Need measurements to diagnose . Voltage at alternator output terminal Voltage on battery posts. At idle. At 1500 to 2000 rpm. And with car off.

Low fluid is not good. What model transmission?

I have had good luck with the 3AT also. I dont know why. I don't drive them easy. It's been a while, but I've towed 1000lbs on a trailer with them. I use synthetic ATF. I shift them manually, and let off the gas at shift time a bit, to avoid shifting with heavy accelleration, because they tend to upshift just before the engine really starts to make power. Not that you can really get that in an ea82 / 3AT driveline.....

The egr pipe can only be removed along with removing the intake manifold.

Probably not. I've driven an intermittently ticky one for quite a while. Reseal the pump, tick fades away after a good few drives.

Are you referring to EA82 with 3AT ?

My sample is smaller, but the handful of ea82s I've fixed lifter tick on all that was needed was the shaft seal on the oil pump, and possibly the other seals. Orings, cam tower, head gasket leaks.

What GD wrote. Added a relay to both of my wagons. No more click no starts.

The FSM likely has dimensions for how to check the rear alignment. There isn't much adjust-ability in it. The FSM does have alignment dimensions for the front, and I've done that. Its more of a project to replace the bearings, So I'd see how they feel, how the grease looks, how the seals look, etc. My recent rear bearing project: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/rearwheelbearing.html

aspwholesale.com has every part for the OEM Hitachi alternators. And lots more. I bought bearings, brushes, slip rings, rectifiers, regulators, insulators. I do have electronics background, so these things are no big deal to me to repair, I know most just buy re manufactured ones.

Where can that bushing kit be ordered?

I'm only guessing, but getting the bushings out is going to be tough with any rust. The backing plate for the brake system is held onto the arm with 3 bolts and nuts, easy to swap. Use anti seize compound on bolts etc. when you reassemble. Rear trailing arm sounds like what you are talking about replacing. Try to verify that the tube that they bolt to isn't damaged. You'll need 17mm wrench and a 17mm socket with extensions to get all of the mounting bolts / nuts. Some might be pretty stuck, so go easy - work them off gradually if they feel like they start getting tighter after beginning to unscrew. Use penetrating oil on them to help also. If you just go at rusty bolt hard, you can snap them and make the project a lot more work. Since you'll be into the brakes, check all that stuff too.

This sounds odd.. The belts are driven by the crankshaft. How can the speed be varying? Are they slipping? Slipping is usually accompanied by squealing. The voltage measurement to verify charging should be done with no accessories turned on, engine idling, and also, raise the RPM to 1000-1500 or so, if the voltage is below 13.8. [it also should not go crazy high, like much over 14V] At the extreme slow side of idle, the alternator doesn't put out a lot of power. I don't know about after market alternators, I have always rebuilt my own.

You can limp it along fine for now. Just be neurotic about checking the coolant, and find that leak. Keep that and the other stuff full, and you won't hurt anything.

Oil pump can be serviced without removing the engine. Easier if you pull the radiator. Might as well do the timing belts and idlers at the same time.

I have to add, maybe not from that same place, but somewhere. Thanks, and you're welcome.