DaveT

With an older car, you sometimes get a run of small to medium repairs. Get past them, and it should level off again.

I've had several GLS and Loyales. Never noticed a difference in the fenders, other than how the trim strips are attached. I think I bought a pair years ago, $75 or $90 comes to mind.

Drawing a vacuum on the ac system isn't just to check for leaks. It removes air and moisture from the system.

Check one of the nation wide used parts places?

Does that Wurth paste set up hard, or with some give?

I'll be making more, after a few more runs, assuming they hold. I'll take pics then.

Having gotten tired of having exhaust gaskets either failing when they fall apart, or crumbling when I have to disconnect a flange for some other reason, I decided to try something different. I take a piece of aluminum foil. trace a gasket on it. Apply a stripe of copper RTV in the gasket area. Lay a piece of woven fiberglass over it. Apply RTV again. Do this for a total of 4 layers. The last layer, is RTV then aluminum foil. Clamp the whole thing between a couple of 1/2" thick steel plates, with spacers to hold it at .050" Let dry overnight or 2. Remove clamps, cut out holes and trim. So far, the pair I made for the heads to Y pipe are holding after 5) 30minute + drives. Will update as needed....

The earlier comments about street racing reminded me of something from long ago. I think I was driving my 78 wagon. One night, I was going through a small downtown. Stopped at a light. Street was wet from recent rain. NO one around. A kind of old looking pickup truck pulls up beside me, and the driver is revving the engine like "wanna race?" I clicked it into 4WD. Light turned green, I floored it and dropped the clutch. Beat the guy across the intersection, not even close. Of course, he blew by me a little way into the block, but I also stopped accelerating at 30MPH, not that it would have mattered.

If you sharply squeeze the upper radiator hose, you should hear the giggle pin. Also, maybe some gurgles, if there is air in the system. Ideally, there should be no air. It's very important to get any big air pockets out before driving. If everything is working and sealed, small gurgles of air should get less each drive cycle.

The only way to get all of the coolant out of the engine is to dissasembled it. An oem or high quality aftermarket thermostat has a giggle pin, and does not seal perfectly enough to prevent fluid from draining. If you star the engine after the radiator drains, the water pump is left without water as only what's left in its body is there. Water pumps are bad at moving air. The thermostat will not open, since coolant is not circulating. Running with low coolant is a really bad idea.

There is usually an idler on the v belts that has a small bearing that can go bad. There are 3 on the timing belt system. Once you have it running again, find the source of the squealing. Bad bearing noises don't make it run bad, but you're on borrowed time before they fail and stop you.

Is yours broken, or just leaky seal?

I had one once that wanted to track kind of close to one side. I flipped it, and it was more centered.

IT won't hurt anything to run it that way. The VRS [or lack of it] won't make a noticeable effect on running. Technically, only a tiny difference in that you loose the fuel that evaporates. The EGR system reduces combustion temperature, when beneficial. i never noticed a big difference in how the engine ran one way or the other, but if it reduces knocking, that gets more power. There was some more detailed discussion of this system on another thread recently. The one that broke, and you plugged, is part of the VRS. These systems don't harm anything performance wise, so I don't understand the getting rid of them. Once you use Toyota solenoids, they are very reliable. I'm still using the same Toyota solenoids I put in my first [1986] GL, back in 1989 or so. Never had to do another thing to those systems. I've been running and maintaining GLs / Loyales since 1988. How it runs when warm won't have anything to do with these. The CTS and IAC valve are the 2 more common things to bother idle regardless of temperature.

I remembered there was someone that did real increases on these old engines. Also remembered it was expensive. Some of the expense on this particular ones is probably the airplane / flight specific stuff..... Even still, that custom stuff isn't going to be cheap. And an EJ is still going to be more powerful, and since it's not being pushed beyond it's original design, more reliable.

Yeah, missing is also an option. Should be pretty similar, if not identical.

A picture might help. The solenoid for the EGR disables the EGR under certain circumstances. I think one of them is while the engine is not warmed up. EGR helps reduce pinging and NO emissions. No negative effects by having it function properly. The vapor recovery system burns off fuel fumes you paid for rather than letting them escape into the air. I see no reason not to restore these systems, but not everyone does. I have used toyota solenoids to replace the OEM ones, as they almost always fail. http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/solenoid.html The canister [and check valve] is there to operate the HVAC system, even when the manifold vacuum is gone due to wide open throttle.

No problem. The cap being loose as you describe means that the rubber seal ring is dried out and hard. Needs to be replaced. Massive quantities of oil won't come out, if everything else is normal. But it will likely leak some oil mist, make a mess. You can try with a few o rings from any hardware / car parts store. Try a dealer I think one of the following may have one, but I am not sure: Fel pro head set HS 9392 PT-2 or conversion kit CS 9390

There are 2 solenoids on an EA82 engine. One is for the EGR valve, the other is part of the purge system for the vapor recovery system. Neither of them effect idle speed intentionally. The IAC valve does that. It is mounted on the throttle body. If a vacuum line is broken / open on either of the 2 solenoids, it can adversely effect idle, since air is getting into the mix after the MAF, and the computer doesn't know. The cold idle not being raised could be caused by the CTS out of spec.

Idle Air Control Coolant Temperature Sensor

If it happened suddenly, out of the blue, 1st 2 things to check: IAC valve and CTS Any other typical maintenance stuff, like plugs, wires, vacuum leaks, should be checked also, if they have been ignored for a long time.

What I did for my first reseal was get a spare engine. Takes all the pressure off. Only tricky part is knowing it's otherwise good, so a trusted source, or pulled from a known running car.

Take a close look at the front tires. Specifically, the tread. Easiest to do with the wheel off the ground, or off the car so you can roll it and look for a patch of tread that is bubbled off the belts. I've had this happen to some tires when the alignment was off. It made odd speed dependent shaking in the steering that would vary in intensity with speed. When both tires had it happen, it would even come and go as they gradually would be in sync and 180 degrees out. Oddly, the car drove pretty much normally otherwise, so I destroyed a couple sets of used tires before I figured out what was happening. I corrected the alignment, it did feel like it steered a little better, and the tire destruction stopped.

Follow the procedure in the manual, regarding order of tightening, and torque for each stage. It is quite possible to over torque them, and strip them. Clean the holes and the bolts, and oil them before assembly.

Were they noisy before you took it apart? If the lash adjusters are loose, the clicking is a very ticky sound, not a deep knock, like a rod would make. I never did anything with any of mine in 3 reseals I've done. Just put them back in. But I knew the oil history, and they were queit before I began the reseal. Before I put the timing belts on, I use a drill with a socket drive adapter to spin the oil pump for a good minute or so to prime everything. Later, when I start the engine, the lifters will tick for a while, then eventually quiet down as a ll the air bubbles get worked out. I just took a look at a couple of spare ones. If they are full of oil, they don't move much by hand pressure. Took one apart. Put it back together, w/o oil, it moves a lot further. It's a close fitting piston kind of thing, and the extension that comes up with the ball on top for the rocker thingy. IF they were gunked up, I'd clean them.