DaveT

I have not seen anything about modifying them. I do remember a thread or 2 about disassembling them and cleaning them, if they are not scored or otherwise damaged. Yeah, if one or maybe 2 went bad somehow.... More than that, probably less than ideal engine maintenance contributed? I've been running Amsoil synthetic since 1988 - don't know for sure if that has anything to do with it, but have yet to have trouble with lifters. Bad oil pump seal will cause the infamous tick, fix that, it goes away after a while.

Yeah, If it were mine, I'd probably look for one similar sized. Disassemble it and rebuild the Subaru one. I did something very similar to an old fuel pump once. On of the kind driven by a lever riding a cam, on a flat head 6 cylinder 404cu" engine.

What adjustment? They are hydraulic, self adjust.

At the very least, you have to disconnect the exhaust, motor mounts and lift the engine some, while watching to not over stress a radiator hose, etc. I've only done it with the engine out for a full reseal, which is where mine always were leaking a lot more.

+1 what dfoyl wrote.

You will have better results in the old gen forum, or the for sale / wanted forum.

Small cracks in the head are normal for ea82. Unless it's leaking coolant, or the valves are not sealing, it's ok.

that is not uncommon when the alternator has no output.

I've been reading these threads. Not sure how to be helpful. I've seen may threads about mods for EA series engines, over many years. How much HP are you looking for? Anything more than just small numbers [like single digit HP] of increased output ends up getting into expensive / complicated / time intensive. Usually 2 or 3 out of the 3.

There are lots of threads abut the wheels and drilling, etc.

The cat can get clogged by running long enough with any of a number of minor malfunctions going on. Some may not even cause the CEL to light. Miles alone doesn't have anything to do with it.

I have done a check with a vacuum cleaner. It's not if you can feel the suction, it's listen to the pitch of the vacuum cleaner motor. It will barely change if the exhaust is unobstructed. Other way to check is loosen the y pipe manifold from the heads, so there is about a half inch gap. Take a short drive. It will be loud, but if the trouble goes away, your exhaust is plugged.

Egr would not have this big of an effect. Starving for fuel comes to mind, since you ruled out some of the others.

Rear wheel bearing web page: http://www.dynahoedave.co.nf/rearwheelbearing.html

Have to measure the head temp with a real thermometer. The dash gauges are notoriously not calibrated. I have had more than one of each of the following: Normal temp reads as about 1/8th scale, 1/4 scale, 1/2 scale. By scale I mean where the red starts is full scale. They have on the other hand, been very consistent, so once I know where normal is for that car, I know it's normal. The heater may be not working well if the core is blocked, or if the blend doors are not working correctly. Check the temp of both of the heater hoses - better still, the pipes right where they come through the firewall, if you can sneak a sensor in there. Do this after a drive, put the heater on heat, with the fan on high, and on low.

It's old enough to need a reseal anyways, I've never had one go much past 10 year / 150K miles without leaking oil from the head gasket / cam tower joints. I can also say that every time I have ever run one over normal temperature while low on coolant, it has eventually needed head gaskets. Maybe in 6 days, maybe in 6 months, but none the less, same end. Just different duration between the initial event and first signs and deterioration to the point of unusable. It is critical to verify that the entire cooling system is right & tight as well, so you don't end up repeating the cycle. OEM or Fel Pro Head gaskets. OEM only for the intake gaskets and the O rings for the oil passage to the cam towers. The Fel Pro head set and conversion kit give you everything else, including the seal for the oil pump shaft. The micky mouse oring, is OEM only as far as I know.

No one wants it to be. I try to be extra careful when diagnosing this over a forum, since it's not the same as being there, and its not a trivial project. I've done it a few times, and it's no big deal to me, but it still a lot of time.

Pull it apart, see if it looks chewed up. If not, regrease and reboot it.

A mechanical gauge tapped into one of the ports on the pump. At least for situations where you are troubleshooting.

It takes longer for the bubbles to start in the recovery tank. The gasses have to push all of the coolant back through its hose first. Any other leaks in the system complicate trying to sort out what's happening. Steady stream is not a good sign. Smell of exhaust is not a good sign. In time, a line of black crud can build up at the level the coolant sits at in the recovery tank. That's from exhaust, same thing, not a good sign.

If you have to move the ac compressor, you can just unbolt it and flip it up and back while it's hoses remain connected. If the pipe groove and pump socket are clean and nor pitted, a new oring should seal that joint. I've had good luck with plumber silicon grease if it's all clean. If it is pitted, a small amount of rtv to fill the gaps has worked. Pressure tests won't confirm headgaskets until they are very well blown.

Yes they are 4 or 5 books. About 8-1/2 x 11. Lots of details in them that are left out of the generic car manuals. Iirc, mine are section1, sec2&3 , 4&5, and 6.

Yeah, I was confused by th question. there is a flat spot on the rod, and the nut and faces on the end. What special tool? I just use regular metric wrenches.

30 seconds isn't long enough to get everything re primed. What I usually do is check a socket adapter in a drill, with a 12mm and use it to turn the oil pump for a while after installing it, but before putting on the timing belt.

There should be a lever and clamp on the choke. Can you post a picture of the carburetor you have?