DaveT

I have to remove the rear axle from the diff on my 4WD wagon. Of coarse, it's stuck. The roll pin came out fine. How aggressive can I get with pulling / prying before I have to worry about breaking something in the diff? I really rather not have to get into repairing that also. I'm actually surprised this one is stuck, it's on my CA car, and everything else I've disassembled has been almost as good as when I first had my 1990 Loyale when it was 2 years old. From looking at the FSM drawings, it looks like there is a small bolt that hold the stub into the diff. Are these removable without dissembling the diff? Can they be reassembled? If that bolt were to snap while pulling the axle, could I get at whatever I need to by removing the back cover of the diff, or am I stuck with fully disassembling at that point?

UV dye for coolant system is a good idea also. Checking for leaks both while hot, cold, and in between. If the temperature starts going above normal, that's bad. Time to stop and check levels and air. Running over normal temperature while low on coolant accelerates headgasket failure.

Ok, that fan is working unless it is making horrible noises. I wanted to know it was there. The gauge varies from car to car. I have had 1 that stayed around 1/8, one that stayed around 1/4, one that stayed around 1/2. Actually, more than one of each. The important thing is where has it always stayed? And even if it changed a bit with a new thermostat, it should stay at it's new position. Detecting the beginning tiny headgasket failure is a process. Before every drive from a cold start, check the level in the recovery tank, and the air in the upper hose. Take notes. Over the course of a week, note trends. Running zero pressure can help sort this out in that a pinhole leak where the coolant evaporates before you can see it won't loose coolant anywhere near as fast.

I've been running 2 ea82s with zero pressure caps for a few years with no problems. But I'm not in high altitudes. Keep monitoring for a week or 2. Is the engine driven fan working? Are all of the fine fins still attached to the radiator tubes? My flow test for radiators - out of car, fill with water with one end down. Cap ports so it will fill up. release the main outlet / inlet that is at the bottom. The water should fall out very quickly. Almost as if it's just a tank. Repeat in opposite direction. Note, it's helpful to have done this with a known good radiator so you have a reference. The beginning of headgasket leaks can be tiny. I've had them where it took a week, checking even time before starting the engine. Check the level by paying close attention to the recovery tank level, and squeezeing the upper hose listening for the giggle pin and air gurgles. Don't open the cap unless you have to add water. Air should get less each cycle, not more. Check and re check for tiny leaks, both cold and hot.

That seems pretty odd. I've not seen any evidence of that sort of amount of water in the doors, in the ones I have disassembled. Leave the interior panel off, have someone spray water on the outside while looking from inside the car.

The time I found the noisy driveshaft, I just unhooked the thing at the rear diff. It was obvious when turning by hand in opposite directions across the bad u joint. One was wiggly One was sticky / rough when bending.

Exhaust leak? Bad u joint or center bearing?

150 psi is a bit high to apply to anything that you don't have specific information on its ratings.

The cabl end will need some kind of bracket or clamp holding the outer jacket still. The ineer cable or wire pulls.on the linkage for the choke. Some may coma with parts, some may not. It's been too long so I don't remeber....

Manual choke has to be separate. It's a pull cable that goes into the drivers area. You need full choke to start usually, then back of once fired, then open once running well warmed up.

Looks like that is right

Verify by looking at the distributor installation instructions. With cylinder 1 at tdc the rotor should be pointing near 1 wire. It will run pretty far out. Ignition timing mark and timing belt installation mark are 2 very different things. The comment about feeling pressure come out of the intake sounds like wrong belt installation.

Just a double check the timing belt setting marks are the 3 lines, not the ones marked with degrees and tdc.

Best I can think of is take a look here: https://www.fmmotorparts.com/brands/fel-pro.html See if the where to buy helps. I have the fel pro head set & conversion kit numbers at home.

That's odd. The normal loyale caliper pistons have to be screwed back in. Pressing with any kind of real force will break the adjuster inside that keeps the parking brake working as the pads wear down.

How about Fel pro? Also, the new gaskets - with proper care- ie no overheating with low coolant- should be good for at least 150k miles, so divide the cost per mile for a way to consider the value. The oem only intake gaskets are part of this...

From reading many older threads that went into great detail regarding intake airflow and power, mods,etc. It is the valves and port geometry that limits ea82 engines power level.

When you replaced everything, how did you get the pistons retracted into the calipers? I'll have to compare 2 cables, but I don't remember them being different lengths. It's normal to have to cycle both paying and service brakes a number of times after replaceing the pads, etc. Not normal to need to adjust. Also if a cable broke, it should not be able to pull at all, just be slack.

+1 re: intake gaskets. Oem only.

Yes, there are all sorts of adjustments for the windows. A factory service manual would be helpful. You'll have to remove the trim panel, etc. to get at the adjustments.

I'm going from memory... Iirc, the carb had an electric choke heater, and a anti diesel valve. 1 wire to each. You can test the valve by unhooking the wire, and applying 12V to it. It should click, and you can try running it.

I never had one of those cables break, but it's possible. Maybe there is a crack or damage that let water in and rusted it out. I never had to adjust the nut on the brake lever thing either. After replacing pads, cycling the brakes a number of times always seems to get them all back to normal. Maybe double check the 2 brake end levers for how far they move from release to pulled. If the cable broke, one should not be pulled as far.

I had an alternator fail recently this way, the regulator quit, so it would over voltage with higher rpm, low voltage at idle. not good for things, but I didn't drive it long like that. Unstable voltage might cause trouble, I didn't notice anything though. No problems after I replaced the alternator.

Most use Fel Pro or oem. Idk about vr. Others will add comments.

Because I have always worn glasses my entire life, I have saved myself lots of pain due to the ocasional back spray of carb cleaner or similar....