DaveT

+1. Wd40 is great for freeing things up, but you need something permanent afterwords.

What Length wrote. It's an o ring. When hey are old and squished flat, they don't seal anymore found that silicon plumber's grease is good for this and all cooling hose connections. The hoses don't get stuck. Be sure to check the clamps after a run or 2.

It depends. What engine is in the Brat now. What type of EA82 are you trying to transplant? Carb to SPFI or turbo is a lot of electrical work on top of any mechanical.

I don't have a way to post a pic right now. Hopefully someone will come along soon. Factory service manual has this information, there are some parts of it online somewhere. More or less the 2 valve cover breathers are connected. There's a t in the line that goes to the pcv valve. Another t goes to the intake boot, if you have the tsb mod or car that came out after it.

The pcv valve is on the back of the intake manifold about under the throttle body. You definitely need another diagnosis. I've been driving and maintaining ea82 spfi wagons since 1988.

Timing belts breaking is no big deal on ea82s. Replace the belts and idlers, good to go. Yes it's inconvenience, but not fatal to the engine.

You have to align to the 3 vertical lines mark. Put 1 belt on. Rotate the crankshaft 1 turn, stopping at the center of the 3 lines again. Put second belt on. I don't recall the disty positions off the top of my head. But be aware the helical cut of the gears turns it a bit, and sometimes can get you off a bit. The disty wrong won't cause uneven cranking sounds.

I buy titanium coated and or coball drill bits from USA brands from industrial supply places, they seem to be a lot better than typical home owner bits. MSC and McMastercarr are the 2 I buy from.

If the cranking sound is uneven rythm, double check the timing marks.

Another note to add - I've replaced many timing belts, never found the distributor adjustment off by more than a couple of degrees. As long as the distributor was reinstalled correctly, the adjustment should be small a well.

Lower back corner of the recessed area the door closes into. Should be a black rubber bumper looking thing.

Pretty sure the fenders are the same. This could be checked by comparing / test fitting a side light from GL to DL. The side lights fit the fenders, and the DL side lights fit to the DL headlights. That's why the other post mentioned getting the whole front, from light to light. I'd grab the harness also, so I could wire up an adapter.

The factory service manual has all of this. There may be an online version somewhere. There are also other key tips and tricks to know. Many threads about resealing on this forum.

Not the most common alternator failure mode. The old battery was definitely past official end of life, just due to age.

Wouldn't hurt to check the CTS also. Last thing to do is adjust the idle. Verify everything else is correct first.

I think yes, what you are looking for is the front lights and grill from a DL.

Legacy vs loyale totally different. Maybe a few of the most common bolts would interchange. The bad radiator combined with multiple overheats probably caused the headgaskets to fail.

If you used the "normal looking" timing marks, it will not run. Those are only for using a light, after things are running, to do the fine adjustment. The 3 line mark | | | is the only one for timing belt installation. I don't know about the videos, there were no videos when I learned to install timing belts.

Welcome , there is a lot of information on this forum.

Have fun! The best I did was 150. For 92 loyale. It had rust, and some mechanical stuff to get right, but I drove it for 10 years.

I can't add much RE: new cars, I don't buy new. But In general, from using logic and general financial advise, extended warranties are profit centers for dealers. They know the car isn't likely to have failures that are covered in the warranty period, and or expect the average buyer to sell the car before the warranty used up.

Just make sure the price is lower than the worst couple of things that could be wrong, compared to a properly running one. For me, I'll fix pretty much anything if the body is rust free.

Yes, that bracket goes under one of the intake bolts.

Do not use the 0 mark. What the other was wrote above works, and is the procedure from the factory service manual. Use only the 3 vertical marks for the 2 installation steps.

I only use the lug wrench on lug nuts. I use my impact wrench only on removing very stuck parts, when I don't care if something breaks, or there is no good way to hold the other piece. And sometimes, things like 2-1/2" nuts on my backhoe.