DaveT

Good to see someone else is running zero pressure cooling system without trouble. I like the tank add in. On my older cars I just made the check valve in the radiator cap stuck open.

99% of the egr code is the solenoid coil is failed open. There is a link to my solenoid swap page somewhere on another code 34 thread. I have never experienced drivability issues caused by code 34. It only indicates the coil of the solenoid, nothing more. The idle air control valve effects idle. Once the throttle is open, it has little effect.

It's a standard 6200 series bearing. But you want one with contact seals. The number is usually molded into the rubber of the seals on the side of the bearing.

Cooling system leak. Any of the several hoses. Have to check the easy things first. Over heat while low on coolant usually causes the headgaskets to be damaged. NO way to know until you find and fix all of the leaks. This is from my experience with the non turbo ea82s. Coolant and oil don't mix unless the headgasket is extremely well blown. The oil leaks usually are from the journal that brings oil up to the overhead cam. Headgaskets and a little o ring udually contribute, and slowly get worse. You are over miles and time due for a reseal if you want to try to not leave oil drops everywhere.

Vibration frequency? below even the lowest bass notes? or can you hear it? Drive shaft U joints I've had make a low note vibration at highway speeds. Wheels / tires out of balance, more of something you just feel.

Press the bearing out and replace it.

Pressing out axle stub from a spare one, first I ever disassembled. Pressing out stub on car - Oooh, nice crumbs ... Pressing Outer race on car: I had to unbolt the 2 arm pivots, and the entire shock at various times, to get the DOJ shaft out, etc. The rubber bushings at the 2 pivot points are odd - not centered, the arm has been rubbing metal on metal on the in board ends of the mounting / suspension cross member attachment points. Some of my spares the rubber is centered, some are offset, would do the same. Are these rubber bushings available anywhere? - as better than OEM?

For all the work of putting in a turbo, you could do the ej swap and have a lot better reliability. Even a plain 2.2 is about 40% power increase.

Stopped at NAPA this am. They can get all the parts, even the drums. But won't have them till early next week. I've got spares from other cars, so I'll take a look and see what condition they are in. They wanted 90 ish for a wheel bearing! The other parts weren't too pricy. I already have the special socket for unscrewing the bearing assy, bought it years ago, and never ended up needing it until now.

Checking once every seven days is six days too long when verifying cooling system problems. Pressure test will almost never show the beginning headgasket leak that slowly puts air into the system.

Wow, both brake return springs missing. One completely, one busted & bent. More odd noises explained.

So driving down the highway, and I start hearing weird noises from the back of my 4WD wagon. Steering felt a little odd sometimes too. Jacked up the left rear wheel just now. The entire brake drum wiggles! Unscrew the nut by hand after pulling the cotter pin! Drum looks ok, spline looks ok. Seal is hard as a rock. Bearings sound dry and a little crunchy. More disassembly for me.... I got it from CA in 2014, didn't notice anything unusual when I put new tires on it last spring or fall.

The jiggle pins is part of an oem or high quality aftermarket thermostat. It is loose, and will make a noise when the hose is pinched - If there is coolant in the upper hose. I'm not sure on the geometry of your particular car, as different models vary, but opening the Cap on my radiator lets air in, so I don't open that just to check the level. If the system is 100% full of coolant, you should hear the jiggle pin. Note, it isn't loud. If the coolant is low, the hose feels softer and very little sound. In between , you should hear gurgles & jiggle pin. Best to do this check cold.

Checking coolant level is not just the level in the recovery tank. I was tricked by this once, many years ago, and learned the hard way, blowing headgaskets due to low coolant. Sharply pinch the upper radiator hose, listen for gurgles and the jiggle pin. There should be very little to no air in the upper hose.

I have a couple of special effects builds eating my time right now, but will get back to this research. I was hoping for a few more ECU nameplate info with model & year to help decide which ECU to re-start tracing, since I inadvertently picked an odd one to start with. Since there are at least a few differences in the ECUs, when I get back into it, should I restart on this thread, or start a new one?

I already have 86 and 90 wagon (actually all models) but other years, I'd save from the trash, if no one else wants needs them.

Check the wiring for the solenoid also. The ECU only can tell if the circuit to the coil is open or shorted. The code for the egr solenoid is the same from 87 through 92 for 4wd wagons, by 1st hand experience. I never bothered to reset the code, after a drive or 2 it clears on its own.

I had a wire in the engine harness fail - just in the middle of it's run. No kink, no external damage, it had just snapped inside it's insulation.

Where is that link to the factory service manual when you need it? iirc, they listed ohm tests. Nothing you did should have hurt it, unless somehow mixed up pins when supplying 12V?

I have used Toyota solenoids since around 1990. I am still using the same ones I bought back then. There is a link to my Web page on other threads about the egr or purge solenoids. It's possible that Subaru figured out how to make outback ones that are more reliable also.

Subaru may have reseal kits, I recently bought a few for the 3AT. But they didn't have many left.

1 Meg or greater is saying open circuit or no continuity, which is normal. If the cts ohm reading is bouncing, that is bad. The reading will be different depending on the temperature, and will drift as the parts cool down, but it should be smooth and steady, not bouncing around.

Any decent auto parts store will have a vacuum gauge for testing intake manifold vacuum. It should come with instructions. You may want a T fitting also. No load revving is completely different than getting power with a load. Could be starving for fuel, partially blocked exhaust among other things. Almost all of my experience with these EA82 engines is with the 3AT automatic transmission. They don't really start feeling peppy until they get over 3000rpm, closer to 4000. Yes, if you floor the gas pedal with a 3AT, it triggers a switch that energizes a solenoid on the transmission to downshift 1 gear.

Under the steering column, above the pedals , there is a plastic panel. Remove it. The ECU is bolted to the steering column. It should be a galvanized gray color flat box. There is a hole about center , open towards the driver's seat. A red led blinks the codes when the car is running. Write down # of long and short blinks. It will repeat endlessly, so you know when you got them all if there is more than one.

Something is wrong with it. Mine go 65mph at 4000rpm with a 3 speed auto.