DaveT

I was thinking of getting the power wiring figured out, so I can capture the state of those mode select pins first. I will spend some time on this today. If it looks like the mode uses internal code, pulling the cpu is next.

+1 what ocei77 wrote. Spray does nothing to remove the gunk that is still in there. Wd40 is great at dissolving some types of dried up grease,but it evaporates, leaving the dried up grease...

Ok, didn't know.that. I've had the solenoid fail open, and never noticed any effect while driving. Pretty much any normal conditions of hills, speed etc.

The egr code almost always is caused by the coil of the egr solenoid being open. The only thing it effects is failing emmisions. The others, I have never had. The crank angle sensor is in the distributor.

I'm going to guess, it would fail emissions. Different ECU, and fuel map for turbo vs non turbo.

You can try replacing just the intake gaskets. The best are oem by far.

When was the timing belt and all of the idlers last replaced?

Hi and welcome!

Running for a long time with a failed o2 sensor can burn out that catalytic. Need the CEL code/s to be sure where to go next. I had a 0420 code caused by a very small exhaust leak.

Any possibility of an air leak? A fair amount of old hoses and connections have to be moved to get the maf off. Something may have been distubed? I've not had any trouble with maf sensors.

Back pressure not requited. All the O2 does is adjust the fuel mixture, once the engine is up to normal operating temperature.

No problem, just letting you know

Wait.... that thing could have dual power 4wd... Be a project to sync 2 engines...

Fel Pro head gaskets, head set, and conversion kit. Except use oem intake manifold gaskets. And yes, more answers in old gen sub forum.

Auto vs manual transmission? No difference in engine. Sounds like a fuel delivery problem. Could be the 2 fuel lines are swapped, since they would have to have been removed for swapping.

Plug it. It will run fine. You might not pass emmisions, but it won't hurt anything.

The cable has a flex shaft in the center. This shaft turns continuously at a speed proportional to the wheels. Inside the speedometer, there is a viscous coupling that in turn moves the needle. The needle returns to zero due to a spring. The needle pivots on very fine bearings, like a mechanical watch or a regular analog voltmeter. They can get contaminated and sticky. I doubt lubing the cable will change the sticky gauge problem you are describing. If the cable is making clicky noises that vary with ground speed, that can be helped by lubing the cable.

There is a custom o ring commonly referred to as the micky mouse oring. Subaru dealer only as far as I know. There is also a regular one or 2 involved, iirc. I only bought 1 oil pump, many many years ago. I just get the seals and orings now.

That is a soenoid. Probably the egr one. That vacuum leak will mess with it running correctly. I use Toyota solenoids as they last ... well I never had to replace one yet. Since 1988.

Just running no load like that for a short time probably didn't kill it. Add oil, start, look for leak.

Watching

The very beginning can be , or at least seem to be intermittent. I'd keep wtchinh it closely for a bit, and see what happens.

No vacuum advance on a loyale. Contollred by the ECU.

Yes. I have those also. I have to lay out a couple of harnesses to help trace out the power wiring. As much detail as there is in my 2 FSM s, they don't bother to clearly indicate which connector each of the wires is in.

Plugs condition and running great is completely normal for this situation.