myossfeece

I just got a 90 legacy 2wd auto for free. It need a crank pulley as the prevoius owner drove it around with the crankshaft bolt a bit lose. It wollered out the pulley and sheared the keyway off the crankshaft snout. to solve this problem I used a wire welder to tack weld the timing gear pulley in place, and in the space left where the keyway goes I laid a bead of weld down and did a bit of grinding to get a different crank pulley on there. after all was said and done the pulley is a little wobbly now but not bad. I drove the car home to realize the heater fan selector doesn't work in any position, 1-2-3-4. the interior lights on the climate control don't work either, nor do the dome or map lights work either. This is my second 90 legacy, both had the heater problems so I am guessing it is somewhat common of a problem. the cruise control works and when I tried to use the rear defrost, the light on the button lights up when pushed, but the instrument cluster indicator doesn't come on by the gauges. I am still in maryland training in the army, my wife has the car back home in indiana. I will be home in about two weeks for 18 days. I am not worried about the crank pulley cause I have a whole other 2.2 to put in it. I ran out of time on my four day weekend so I had to resort to the weld job. I only have access to the net on the weekends primarily, but I will be checking this as I have the net . thanks for any help

I had a 91 awd a/t legacy myself and it to was making some bad noises, and I thought it was either the tranny or the rear diff. miles fox was sure it was the tranny and I was sure it was the rear diff. come to find out it was the rear diff the whole time and it eventually locked up and busted the teeth all away on the ring and/or pinion gear. double check the oil in the rear diff as this may the cause of the noise. miles was thinking the center diff, so we put a fuse under the hood to disable the awd and make it fwd, just to have the rear diff lock up and obliterate itself. good luck

kinda sounds like a heater core issue to me as well.

I am myoss feece, the owner of the impreza in question here. if I unhook the negative cable on the battery and wait for about ten seconds and hook it up again, with the key off, all dash lights will stay off, and as soon as I turn the key to the run position and back to off the dash lights stay on untill the battery is unhooked. It seems like, when I hook the battery up then everything is fine, but as soon as I "energize" the ignition relay (by turning the key) the short occurs and the dash lights stay on regardless of key position. with the engine harness unplugged, the check engine light will stay on regardless of the key. when turned to the run position the airbag light will come on as normal. with the engine harness plugged in the check engine light goes off, and when turned to the run position the air bag light is M I A. However the oil pressure light and the charge indicator light will stay on all the time. If I put my battery charger on the battery and crank it over the oil pressure light will go off as the engine builds pressure, and come on a few seconds later and the charge light will stay off when on the charger as the car "senses" the charge being put on it. If I had to guess I would say, without the harness plugged in the car doesn't "know" The key is in the run position and won't start when cranked over. With the harness unplugged the car "knows" if it is in the run position, but enough components on the motor are unplugged keeping it from running. any help would be greatly appreciated. can anyone tell me what fuse goes to what, as I don't have the fuse cover to read off of. O yeah. I have a couple of fuses that are dead (0.0volts) and the fuse is good, think I should try to jump 12v to them or am I just tryin to BURN my car to the ground???? I also have a couple of fuses that are only pulling 7v what If I jump 12v to those??? There isn't much I can do not knowing what fuse is what. Hey MILES I will holla at you on the phone l8ter tonight to try to figure some more of this out. thanks everyone for any help at all.

yeah That was wha I needed to know. I have a 3.7lsd and a 3.9 rear end, both with a broken axle stub. I am hoping to part them both and come up with a 3.9lsd with two good axle stubs on it. thanks gd

with all the work involved, and having a complete car for parts, why not consider using the WHOLE ea82 motor if its good, and get spfi AND more power. the ea82 motor will fit in the engie bay and against the tranny. i would say that if the donor car was junked over something stupid like a broken timing belt, consider the whole motor to swap. the adantages would be easier to build up, more power, and you can replace with unmodified stock replacement parts

It is always a shame to hear about someone runnin off with someone else soob without permission. hope you get your ride back

well good luck and stay ahead of the weather.

well the blue smoke thing means that the engine is burning oil, once it warms up this stop right? my 91 loy-a has the motor out of an 88 spfi with 200,000 miles on it and it to will smoke when she's cold. these motors with high mileage the tolerances aren't up to spec when it's cold, but once the engine warms up the valves seat properly and the piston rings will expand and seal up properly. to where you can drive all day long up to the redline without smoking anymore till it cools off and your restart the cold engine usually the next day. I would think if you set the choke on it (carbbed) it should idle fine. To set the choke press the accelerator pedal to the floor once and then start the car, It should idle around 2,000 rpm. then once she has been running for a few minutes lightly tap the gas pedal to disengage the choke or just let it go and it will disengage itself automatically once it reaches temperature.

keep the alternator, powersteering, (if equipped) if it's 5spd keep the flywheel, keep the intake, and oil pan to, pulleys, dipsticks I keep as much stuff off of em as I can get away with. keep all the nuts and bolts to. If you let the heads go to junk at least keep the exhaust studs as they are fairly hard to come across.

Another thing that comes in handy if you are gonna have some bass, would be an amp cut-off switch use the remote/ power antenna wire off the radio as your supply for the switch, then from the acc on the switch run your remote wire to the amp, and then ground the switch. the good thing about this setup is if you leave the amp switch on and turn off the car it will go off with the radio instead of staying on all night and draining your battery. You'll be suprised after bumping for a few months how often you switch the subs off. I know I sure use mine alot, cause sometimes the bumps will get on your nerves or if you have a headache you will notice your head pounds hard enough and you don't need to speakers to help it out.

and as far as the o2 sensor you could just run a stock ea82 "y" pipe, It will still bolt up the same but will hang down say 3/4 of an inch lower than the stock ea81 pipe. that should solve the o2 prob. be sure the ea82 pipe is off a spfi as a carbbed ea82 pipe will obviously put you in the same boat your in now. Also be sure to swap to an ea82 spfi fuel pump to get your pressure. make sure to get the coil bracket with ignition amplifier to work with the optical disty.

I have done head gaskets on my ea82turbo and if you have a dremel laying around with a snake attachment I would advise porting the heads since you have to take them off anyway. I have done this myself and would not recommend it if you need the car back on the road immediately. It took me about 6hrs each head to port them. slow and time consuming. watch out for cracks in the exhaust port as they will leak coolant and burn it off in the exhaust. cracks in between the valves are normal so don't over-react and junk the car when you see those, it's all good. I will soon be doing head gaskets on my loy-a as preventative maintenance with 200,000 miles on stock head gaskets and will port those heads as well.

yeah get the wagon! The carbbed motors are kinda pimpin in my opinion. To set the choke floor it once and then turn it over and start it up and it should idle around 2,000 rpm lightly hit the pedal once more to disengage the choke. a lot of people complain about the carbbed motors "dead spot" which is right around the end of the primaries right before the secondaries open up to supply the fuel for the demand. I myself would jump on such a wagon in a heart beat. Around these parts (northern indiana) it is hard to find the carbbed motors that still idle fine and have a working choke. Does it have a sunroof? yeah get the wagon it sounds like a good buy. Good luck with your soob!

yeah I have a vacuum gauge in my loy-a but before I had the loy-a I picked it up on the raod trip to rescue trashwagon 5, and installed it in the rx. when I let of the gas it would make its way to 20-22pounds of vacuum and when at highway speed pull a downshift to 3rd it would peg out at 25 pounds of vacuum. the only engines I know of that don't create intake manifold vacuum are diesel engines being as they don't have a throttle plate. Or a forced injection engine(turbo, supercharged) under boost.