Durania

PROBLEM SOLVED: Switched the original factory ground back and solved both the voltage issue, and the overheating issue. Thanks People.

Well Im probably going to fall back on the old principal: "If it's not broke, don't fix it". I just hope the overheating issue will go away when I change the wire back.

Thanks!!! I will go by the Mart De Wal tomorrow after my Economics class. Go in and pick up a considerably shorter wire. If all else fails I could just put my OEM one back one. I am probably not the only one who gets nervous when that temp gauge goes above the normal zone.

You all seen a repeat of the simpsons. It originally aired about 3 months ago. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50442&highlight=simpsons

Today after seeing the overall gain a friend of mine had with replacing the ground points on his 240sx it got me to thinking. So i replaced the original factory ground with a bigger gauge wire. I just simply ran it back to the OEM engine grounding point. Now i just noticed that I have somewhat of an overheating problem and the voltage doesn't read as high. The wire is 51 inches long, could that have something to do with it. As of right now I am not in the mood to start replacing headgaskets and valve covers. Do you (the board in general) think I should get a smaller length wire, or start going about the thermostat replacement ordeal?

Update: Last week voltage regulator finally bit the dust last weekend. The straw that broke the camels back was when i put it in revers and the windshield wipers came on. Ripped the alternator off the next morning and too my utter disapproval it blew all four of my headlights. (I assume by too much output). So that was a good fourty dollars well spent.

How do you rig something like that up?

Probably the best bet would be to find a replacement back glass with the defroster lines intact. Would save the trouble of repairing those damn things.

Checked fuses all of them were fine, it wont be too hard for me to find headlights. On the subject of fuses, what will happen if I run the car without the ECM fuse?

Alternator went out last night, having it rebuilt tomorrow. The funny thing was I could put it in reverse and the windshield wipers would come on. Bad thing is, my headlights wont run on normal, have to be on bright. Any sugestions?

It does have a benefit, last night when all these tornados came through i just drove a little faster to make my windshield wipers more efficient. I will check it out though.

On my EA81 hatch, what is causing the voltage meter to increase with the RPM's. Is my alternator on the way out? Or could it be something with my distributor? The brightness of the headlights and gauges vary depending on the RPM's.

EJ25 is what they use in a majority of the newer subarus. Its what the STi uses.

The stupidest thing I did was: The first day I got my EA81 hatch, I put the battery in backwards and fried the fusible link. I ended up having to go and explain the dumb@ss at the parts place what a fusible link does, he ended up giving me the wrong thing in the end so I basically had to fabricate to over-sized wires he gave me. I finally got a replacement one a couple weeks ago off a 4x4 coupe in the junk yard.

Yeah its the drivers side that doesnt work, is there any way to repair this?

On my EA81 hatch the switch in the door jam that controls the interior lights and the indicator on the diagram that shows whether your day is open or not does not work. How would I proceed about removing and fixing this?

I was talking once to a guy at Earl Duff Subaru (top subaru in Tennessee) he said that the owner [Earl Duff] took a six-speed tranny from an STi and put it into an svx. How big of a pain in the a$$ would this be?

I wouldn't start just randomly pulling vacum houses, buddy of mine did that and then his car wouldnt even go into drive, turns out a 1/8 inch vacum house controlled all of that.

I really don't see the point of there being a wiper on the evo. I don't see how it would need one. But, I think it would be cool if there was back wipers on a whole lot more vehicles.

Yea its just basically a Brat with a back hatch.

The before and after picture says it all. Good Job! Try and keep the fact that you can do body work on the D/L, Next thing you know you will be putting body kits on Hondas'.

I wish it had intermittent wipe instead, no water gets on it at all if your driving only if your sitting still.

My hatch does.

Well thats the thing, my aunt before taking time to think just simply drove it straight to the mechanic. I am convinced that she could've put that fellar through college by all the work she has had done on that GM garbage.

I would just simply go with a new clutch cable. You have to crawl underneath your dash to where your clutch pedal is, pull out a little pin that holds the cable to the pedal, then unbolt it from the clutch fork underneath the hood. DO NOT DO THIS IN A HURRY! I made that same mistake and it took me forever to get everything back in order, a new cable is also a pain in the butt to snake through the firewall to the fork because its so stiff.