Ever Victorious

Hmm... nifty, something I need to see.

as far as the deep black with gold, Saturn had a color they called, if I remember, Black Gold in the late 90's that was like what you describe. It was actually quite a cool color.

The pearl effect is from mica particles inside the paint itself (very very fine ones), and their effect is to cause the paint to reflect a different color based on the angle and type of light. This is different than a "metallic" paint because a metallic paint will always show the base color plus a shiny sparkle of metal. A pearl coat will show the base color in most circumstances, but will actually reflect back a different color in some types of light or at odd angles. The most radical example of this is Mirage paint.

Dunno bout the EA65, never heard of one... The EA63 is the 1400cc that was used before Subaru switched to the EA71, at least in the US.

OK... so I'll be like driving my XT home after I lost a heater core hose. OK... that's easy enough.

If an EA81 has an obvious bad HG (oil in the water, white smoke, etc.)... is it possible to run the engine from point-to-point as long as the water is kept full? (This is a short-term answer, not a permanent solution, obviously)

well... And that's per side...

I now know I'd need two, and possibly the complete rockers on the right side. I just got done banging on every part of the underside of the car, because the last rust hole was found in a place that didn't look to be a problem (paint was intact), and sure enough... I found that 1) the original hole is actually twice as large as first thought and penetrates the wheel well itself, and 2) the OTHER side has a fairly sizeable hole right on the corner of the wheel well. It's no longer a patch job with that kind of damage. Unless someone's REALLY good at shaping metal and wants to do it cheap.

Sadly, lots of swings and misses so far... 2 different body shops have said they don't do this kind of repair, they'd have to cut out the WHOLE quarter and replace it, to the tune of $1500. One welding shop won't even attempt the work period. And the local technical college that does an automotive program ONLY does GM, Toyota, and Honda.

Man, I really like that original shade of blue. They only made it for a couple years, didn't they?

First of all, let me apologize to most of you.. I kinda snapped a little, I've had a stressful few days that was capped off by my own idiocy today costing me $44 on a ticket and nearly getting me run over by a propane truck. In all of the frustration with the car, I had forgotten that I have a brother-in-law who may know how to weld, so I'll have to get his take next time I see him. I could always get it professionally patched if I had the money, but $100 seems VERY lowball for that kind of work to be done well. I dunno, I guess I need to start calling body shops to find out for sure. Still no idea how heroic I truly want to be with the car... From what I'm seeing from it, the no-fire problem may sadly be the least of the engine's problems.

If it's carbed, somewhere in the 140-175 range should be good.

Thanks... Yeah, true, I'm not going to put forth any heroic effort to save this car because I'm not going to see a return on any further investment at this point, but if Mr. Carb has time over the next couple weeks to help me with the fuel rail and it gets the engine going, at least the car will be running for the next owner.

You know what, Brian, I have no idea what I did to piss you off so badly that the only way you'll talk to me is to poke me and insult me. If this is your way of trying to motivate me, knock it off. If it's what I think it is, knock that off too. To the rest of you all (including Brian): What part of I CANNOT FIX IT is difficult to understand? Repair of this problem will require cutting out a section of the rear quarter and welding a new one in. 1) I don't have the tools or knowledge for that kind of cutting 2) I don't have the tools or knowledge for that kind of welding 3) my lovely dry exposed timers in my garage would likely catch fire if I even ATTEMPTED said welding. To most of you, I know a cancer hole is nothing because you 4-wheel your Soobs until there's no body left, then throw it away and put the suspension on another car. This is NOT what I'm in this for, I intend to restore the car to a daily driver condition. A cancer hole is the exact OPPOSITE of what I need. I know that cars without them exist. I've owned lots of them. Even as recent as my XT. I just keep having bad luck with the ones I'm picking. And picking ON me isn't helpful. If you guys want to be helpful, either weld the damn hole shut for me, or buy the damn car off me.

If it's not bad enough that the damn thing won't fire, I just found cancer in a place I can't fix. BIG cancerous hole down low on the rocker panel just in front of the right rear wheel. Son of a... rrrrr!

I usually have company over at that time, although one of those people in "company" wants this car on the road just as much as I do, so that might be worth an extra set of hands...

Well, let me know. On weekdays I usually don't get home till 6:30pm. Weekends I have off.

When would you like to do this?

That gray wire goes I think to the - on your coil... it's the same post that your two yellow wires go to. I am aware there is an FPR on the fuel rail, but I can't replace the rail... it's beyond what I'm equipped for. I do have a spare rail, though... it's still attached to the 2 injectors that I didn't replace. As for the crank angle sensor... several people have said it hooks into the disty. I've taken the top off of mine and seen a number of connectors on top. All are securely connected and none look frayed or broken. I could not disconnect any of them. So sadly I can't be of any help here.

CTS = coolant temp sensor. I would imagine the crank angle sensor might be part of the problem for the ecu not getting the right signal. I don't know what else besides that. Unless you also have a bad ECU, in which case we could test using my ECU. We can't have 3 bad ECUs between us, right?

I finally figured out which sensor was the CTS and disconnected it. This did not affect anything, still does the same thing. Couldn't disconnect the MAF (well, I could have, but I was too lazy). The other sensors mentioned here, I have no idea what/where they are. (Words do me no good, I need pictures)

Wheelbase on an EA81 hardtop is the same as the sedan and wagon... I'm no mechanic, but I think that means the rear driveshaft is the same as the wagon... cause isn't the difference their length?

Hey, could you make sure to egg and/or TP my old workplace this week? I think they deserve it.

Sorry to hear about your problems.... I don't know if it will help you any, but I have a set of intake gaskets you can have... I'm never going to attempt putting them in myself.

I called Mike @ Smart Service yesterday to see if he could shed some light on the issue of the so-called "rear fuel filter" you wanted me to check. He said that on this model, it doesn't have an inline filter (or whatever he called it, I can't remember) near the fuel pump, but rather a screen in the tank. He said that this can sometimes get gunked up and to remove it and clean it. He also said that this is probably accessed at the top of the tank, and there should be an access port in the trunk to get to it. Ixnay on the access port in the trunk, it's a pretty darn solid floor. Didn't have time to look under the rear pass. seat. If you find this thing, could you let me know where it is and how to remove it?