Ever Victorious

I know that. Like I said, I replaced the fuel filter. If it was not clear from my post, I apologize. the part that is making the hissing noise is the small brass canister attached to the front of the fuel rail. After looking at a Haynes manual for EA82T's (I don't have the correct one because my Brother In Law borrowed it and never returned it), the part I am looking at IS called the pressure regulator Now... if I depressurized the fuel system during all the work I did, and drained the fuel from the fuel rail and all of the fuel lines forward of the firewall (including the inlet hose to the fuel filter), would that not mean that it would be NORMAL to expect there to be air immediately after this? If so, will cycling the fuel pump fill and pressurize the system? If so, how long would it take to do so? Edit: If it helps, I pulled the output line from the fuel filter and the line is full, so there is fuel at least up through that point.

No, I replaced the fuel filter. It's the small brass (?) thingy just in front of the throttle body. It's probably the fuel lines to/from the filter then, I couldn't get them to come off so I had to cut them off. I got them partway back on, but there's a point at which I simply cannot generate enough force to move the lines farther onto the tubing. Note to self... rip out EA81T and put in EA71 sitting in freebie.

New problem: after draining/replacing most of the fuel system from the fuel filter forward, I am getting an air leak/hissing noise from the metallic canister thingy on the fuel lines bolted to the intake. What NOW?

Thank you, after I read this I re-examined and saw the clips. I have a tool known collectively by the techs at work as the "tool of removing everything". It removes these quite nicely without the need for something to jam in place. By the way... did I ever mention the injectors on this thing are a freaking nightmare?

Besides the fact that the old Dr. Demento song "Making Love in a Subaru" is now going through my mind?

Yaay, I get to ask another stupid question! I need to get the fuel lines and injectors swapped out, and XSNRG was kind enough to provide a whole new intake manifold with these pieces attached. Well, regardless of whether or not I use the manifold itself (right now I'm just pulling the lines and injectors, seems to be an easier swap), I still need to remove the sliced-up wiring harness off of the donor part. I've figured out all the bolts, and a couple of the electrical connectors, but there are a total of 6 connectors that I haven't been able to figure out how to disconnect, and I really need to figure out how to do it without damaging them (as I'm going to have to do the same to the harness that's actually IN the car) They are the 4 individual injector connectors, the connector to some sensor that looks like it's on the top of the t-stat housing, and the connector to something on the TB (AIT? TPS?) Anyway... I need to know how to get these off without damaging them. Any ideas?

Welcome aboard, and welcome out of the shadows as well.

Kudos to those who said it was the battery cable, replaced that and the cable overheat and funny smell are now gone, and the starter revs a little faster.

I'd be down for a hat, if the cost was reasonable.

Actually, that is also a possibility. The cable WAS only room temperature down by the starter, but really hot by the battery connector. So this is another vote for replace the battery cable?

GD - actually, the sheathing of the cable started smoking after about 5 seconds of cranking, with everything stone cold. Again, I initially ignored it because I thought it was just detritus under the hood burning up. Turns out it was the cable. Boosted - How fast are these starters supposed to turn? I've never had an automatic on an EA series, so I have no frame of reference. However, compared to the starter on a manual, it turns slowly. maybe 1/3 to 1/2 as fast. Would that be what you're referring to?

Actually, this happened after cranking it for just a few seconds with the car completely cold. And it's both wires that get hot... the starter wire and the smaller one. I at first attributed the smell to the fact that the car's been sitting for a while, because Freebie still smells like burning garbage every time I turn it on... and I've run THAT engine for a few hours since resurrecting it.

Will do on the alt on Tues when I have time to work on it again. Car's bone dead stock, stock AM/FM cassette, doesn't even have the factory optional fog lights, so current draw shouldn't be a problem.

Cables aren't a problem, I have a disassembled ground kit for a Civic laying around. From the engine to the frame? ok, easy enough.

Anywhere specifically I would need to add one?

Hey guys - I'm trying to fire up an EA81T with a fuel delivery problem (I know what it is, I'm applying a fix that I'm hoping will avoid having to replace unnecessary parts). However, I'm having a secondary problem. The positive battery cable is overheating. Like to the point it is starting to melt its sheathing. Ideas as to what could be wrong? Batt is new, everything else is an unknown.

Hmm... I dunno, converting an FE to 4WD sounds interesting. But then again, I'm psychotic.

Would it be cheating to bribe your friends to drive your extras down? :-p and I have missed going to WCSSes soooo much. Last one I went to was #3. So... #8, here I come!

http://www.ecy.wa.gov/programs/air/pdfs/Zip_codes.pdf In case anyone was wondering. The zip codes in Snohomish correspond to: Bothell/Mill Creek/Kenmore/Woodinville Edmonds/Mountlake Terrace/Lynnwood Everett/Marysville/Mukilteo Lake Stevens/Snohomish So I guess Arlington, Stanwood, and Smokey Point are within Snohomish county, but not requiring emissions.

Both King and Snohomish counties require emissions. Skagit county does not, but that would require you to live in Mount Vernon. Rather far away.

Title is self explanatory. I may need help, and would prefer the help of another Sube owner. If you have a flatbed and wouldn't mind helping me tow a Sube, please PM me.

I'm guessing this is the same wagon posted in the CraigsList area... there's a description of the problem if you follow the link

It is a 7" H6024. (Measured from Freebie, which is an '83 STD hatch) FYI, there is a projector upgrade kit for these as well, similar to the square ones I just put on my XT. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/7-H6024-H4-HID-EURO-CRYSTAL-DIAMOND-HEADLIGHTS-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQitemZ7945339949QQtcZphoto

Well, the XT has a lower drag coefficient, and I believe it's a little lighter, too. What do you mean by "chassis looks lowered"? XTs are pretty low to the ground to begin with, but if it's REALLY low, it may have a bad air suspension (replace with standard suspension from j/y). I'd keep the XT, personally. It's the straighter of the two, and the weight and lower drag may help give you a slight edge. Take the fun parts off the RX and put them on the XT, then part out the rest.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200mm-H6054-H4-HID-EURO-DIAMOND-CRYSTAL-HEADLIGHTS-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQitemZ7925020780QQtcZphoto This is the housing kit (Autopal) and a set of bulbs, though it's advertised with blue bulbs. He'll sell them to you with standard white or high-wattage white also. Mine are the standard white. It's about $40 shipped, which is still $10 less than a set of Silverstars for the H6054. I'm just finishing up dinner right now, then I'll go out and check out the practical improvement in lighting. Edit: OK, just came back from the test drive, and it's a night and day difference (no pun intended). I need to aim the left headlight a lot better (it's aimed too low), but the amount of light the car produces is now on par with the projectors in my Optima. A road that I take home from work that's normally pretty scary is now well-lit with these babies.