Ever Victorious

(SIGH...) Talked to the wife and she won't allow another project car on the property until I have at least Havoc's car out there, and preferably also my friend's Starlet as well. Anyone else who is interested, feel free to grab it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200mm-H6054-H4-HID-EURO-DIAMOND-CRYSTAL-HEADLIGHTS-KIT_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33710QQitemZ7925020780QQtcZphoto My headlamps are dying. These are not much more than a pair of new headlamps, and they convert to cheaper H4 bulbs, plus they're multi-faceted reflectors like on my Kia, whose headlights are B-R-I-G-H-T... Has anyone tried using these?

Let's make a trip to Home Depot during lunch. hehe

Hey Tex... take note, this hood scoop eats fully grown women.

It's a 2WD with a jury-rigged ignition switch. getting more info... Edit: 5-speed, mobile under its own power, 180k-ish miles. I'm close, I can pick it up and possibly store it short term... (or if Havoc and I can get freebie done this weekend, possibly longer). Anyone else interested in this?

Could be interesting. Message sent.

Which remind me, have you checked the Small Child Catch Can lately? Maybe it needs to be emptied.

So this morning I decided to take 44th instead of 196th, so I got a good look at your car's front. Question. How many children does the hood scoop eat in the morning?

Vinyl graphics are good, but I'm going to have to paint the car anyway to take care of the places where it's peeling, scraped off, or rusting. If I screw up on masking graphics, I can just finish painting the whole car, and go over it with vinyl later. (You've seen the Kia, right?)

That must be what I saw last week. The turquoise isn't bad. But there's some really bad scratching on both front corners, at least one rear corner, the bumpers are peeling, and there's a rust spot developing on the right front fender just above and behind the wheel well. I'm thinking of creative/insane ways to take care of it, and give the car something to make it pop all at the same time. I'm thinking of taking the areas of the car that still have paint in good condition, and masking off some simple graphics on those areas, then stripping down, priming, and painting the rest of the car, then clearcoating the whole thing. Maybe a two-tone look.

Oh, so THAT'S why there was an RX out front this morning. BTW - do you have an XT of some variety also? black one?

Psh.. who needs rope? It's an XT, it can go ANYWHERE in the snow. as long as it's on-road. Seriously, last XT 2WD I had had no problem tackling the unplowed lane over Snoqualmie during a good snowfall, on just street radials. Only the most minute sliding. (And I was passing AWD Outbacks, too...)

This question has now been answered in another thread, thanks Noah. Still looking for an answer to this. Or if not an answer, then someone locally that can do the adjustment.

Aight, apparently I have + and - mixed up. I'll see about fixing that tomorrow and running the car again to see if that fixes the cooling issue.

As an ex-Saturn owner, I can confirm that T45 is the size of several fasteners inside that vehicle.

OK... Havoc and I just finished another day of working on Freebie. We got the radiator fan hard-wired back in, as it had come disconnected some time before I picked up the car. It was apparently wired through a switch in the dash (was probably hard-wired by the last CA owner). It now takes longer to overheat than before, just sitting at idle in the garage. New batch of questions: Cooling system - is the fan supposed to blow air towards the front of the car, through the radiator? or is it supposed to suck air from the back of the radiator and shove it farther back in the engine bay, toward the rear of the car? Is the car supposed to gradually overheat if the engine is left running endlessly at idle with the radiator fan turned on? If not, what did we do wrong? Clutch - Though the clutch is new, it is not properly adjusted. The pedal has to be ALL THE WAY to the floor in order to change gears, and the instant you start to lift the pedal, the car is back in gear. How do you adjust it so that this toggle point is at least 2" above the floor instead of AT the floor? Other things we found today - The carb runs rich until the car is warmed up. After about 10 minutes of idling, the car puts out normal-looking/feeling/smelling exhaust. No parts were replaced... may pick up a PaP carb next week, since they are cheaper than a new O2 sensor.

Yup, works great... though the initial volume is lower than the Kia (which has the same deck), I'm able to get more control and more overall noise out of this system. Pretty impressive, since the Kia has Infinity's all the way around.

Picked up a new HU before going to work this morning. Will wire it in at lunch, already have the butt connectors on the HU harness. Just need to snip, strip, and splice the wires in the dash again. Should be a decent sound setup.. Found a set of Kenwood 160W 6.5's that fit the stock rear deck location EXACTLY (screw holes, basket, the whole 9 yards... even the stock grilles fit over them). I had a dead ground on the R side, so I couldn't trust the stock wiring. Didn't want to run new wires to the doors, so I've got some 6.5" boxes with a set of Dual 140W speakers... they are such a perfect fit, that they wedge in and can't be pulled out or move at all without sliding the seats forward to "midget" position.

Nah, you don't need to have heard of 'em. Cause you've got Tool and Megadeth on there...

OK... it looks like I've got the main 4 wires figured out Black = Ground, Blue-Yellow = 12v Switched, Green-White = power antenna, White = 12v Constant. Verified this through use of a multimeter. Picked up two new sets of speakers, and ran completely new wire from both sets to eliminate the shared ground (and the stock speaker wiring completely). Everything is wired, but I get a whole lot of nothing when I turn the car to ACC. Power antenna goes up, but I cannot get the HU to power up, and there is a soft tap about once a second through the front speakers. Disconnecting the harness from the HU lowers the antenna, and the tap goes away. testing the wiring at the HU harness, I find that everything is wired correctly there, but nothing doing. This deck has been sitting in my office for 2 years or so, and was pulled from a friend's car when it was put into my office... I'm thinking that the deck is dead. Ideas? Edit: I wouldn't imagine this would have an effect on the performance of the head unit, but in order to make the work of hard-wiring easier, I took the main 4 wires and butt-spliced them to sections of 16 AWG wire (it was what I had laying around). This allowed me to have enough room to strip and crimp outside of the dash. This shouldn't be causing any problems, right? Especially since voltages are correct at the HU harness?

Looked at the wiring harnes. Problem: Lavender/yellow does not exist. Green/white does exist, but it is the same gauge as the speaker wire. The ground and constant power wires appear larger than most of the wires, as do 3 more wires in the harness (Yellow, Red, and a blue with a stripe color that I've forgotten). I'm really starting to think that Subaru has been building their cars with whatever color wire they happened to have laying around, rather than what is ACTUALLY supposed to be there, because your information is the 3rd set of different wire color possibilities, and I'm not sure my car matches, so that means a possible 4th set of wire color possibilities. MY BRAIN! (splode) Edit: I suppose this is a bit much to ask, but I don't suppose you'd be willing to pull your HU out and find out what 1) position in the harness (clip side up, starting with the upper left as pin1 and counting all the way across the row to the right) AND 2) what COLOR of original wire the following wires COMING OUT OF your head unit are connected to: Blue Red Yellow Black

Must be a problem in the switch then. I've tried every iteration of how the wires can go, and this is the best I can do. But the starter and ignition circuit work correctly with the OEM start module, as long as the ig lock cylinder is removed (because that's physically preventing the turning of the ignition).

Uhm... weber carb is a start.. I don't know if the sensors can simply be disabled, or if the ECU needs to be removed... and how it will affect the car.

The california emissions are going to be your saving grace when you do have to take it to emissions. I doubt it would pass right at the moment with how much unburned fuel its spewing out.

It sometimes takes a couple Subarus to figure out when you've got something good going. I would never have given up either my old XT or my '82 GL wagon had I known what they would mean to me... so I know, at least in retrospect, what you are going through. And I'll pour a 40 for ya too, homes.